Can't seem to get rid of ammonia

[dlucas10]

Hello,

I think I messed up when I added a new filter as the other one wasn't working properly and now I can't seem to get the ammonia level down. Currently inside the canister filter I have Carbon, and Ammonia remover and it looks like it's not doing anything. I feel bad for the fish in the tank and would like to get rid of the ammonia . The fish seem active as they're swimming around but a couple of them are missing some scales.

If there is any advice that anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated.

 

[brutus]

do a big water change every day if you have too

 

[CaptainAhab]

Dosing with Prime or some equivalent will get your current ammonia under control. It won't address why you're getting the ammonia spike though. I'm assuming you didn't transfer the media from the old filter to the new? If that's the case then you're going through another cycle (to some degree). Get ready for lots of testing and water changes unless you can get your hands on some used media.

 

[dlucas10]

yeah, i didn't keep the media as it was a fluval and I went to a marineland.

So, your recomendation is to get some prime and follow the directions on the bottle?? Should I remover the ammonia removers in the filter??

 

[neilanh]

How high is your ammonia level?

 

[bs6749]

My advice is to do as large of a water change as you can making sure to remove all uneaten food and excrement. Next, fill the tank back up with water and treat the tank with Prime as has been suggested. It will neutralize the ammonia to a form that isn't toxic to the fish but it will still show up on your test kit. More feedings of smaller portions is in order until you get the tank cycled. Large water changes of 25-50% per day should be done until the level reaches 0 ppm.

 

[dlucas10]

neilanh: it looks like it's 4 ppm using the API test.

I'm going to do a 50% water change right now. And place a capful of prime in?? It's a 75 gallon tank.

 

[Alaris]

My bottle of Prime says 2 drops per gallon for .8ppm ammonia and can double it if higher and can add 5 times the dose for an emergency.

 

[MichaelsLilGray]

If you used an Ammo Lock your ammonia isnt 4ppm.. its not the toxic forum of ammonia.. Let your filter work at it a couple of days.. if it doesnt work out the ammo lock will wear off and do a 50% or under asap.

thats what i did.. mine is now slowly going down.. its 1ppm.. better than the close to 6 it was

 

[dlucas10]

I used two capfuls as it states on the bottle "Use 1 capful for each 50 gallons of new water."

Is it a recomendation that I put in two more capfulls??

MichaelsLilGray: I did not use ammo lock. The only thing that is being used right now is that I have the Ammonia remover in the filter. You know, the stuff that looks like the carbon except that it's white.

 

[Alaris]

If you used an Ammo Lock your ammonia isnt 4ppm.. its not the toxic forum of ammonia.. Let your filter work at it a couple of days.. if it doesnt work out the ammo lock will wear off and do a 50% or under asap.

thats what i did.. mine is now slowly going down.. its 1ppm.. better than the close to 6 it was

I disagree. Unless you treated for 4ppm, then you're not safe and you should do a large pwc.

However if after you've treated for ammonia and you're still getting a reading, then you must trust that you've treated it because it can still show up on your test kit and then wait 24 hrs for your bio-filter to take care of it before doing another pwc.

 

[Alaris]

I used two capfuls as it states on the bottle "Use 1 capful for each 50 gallons of new water."

Is it a recomendation that I put in two more capfulls??

Prime

DIRECTIONS: Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 gallons*) of new water. For smaller doses, please note each cap thread is approx. 1 mL). This removes approximately 0.8 mg/L ammonia, 1.2 mg/L chloramine, or 3.3 mg/L chlorine. May be added to aquarium directly, but better if added to new water first. If adding directly to aquarium, base dose on aquarium volume. Sulfur odor is normal. For exceptionally high chloramine concentrations, a double dose may be used safely. To detoxify nitrite in an emergency, up to 5 times normal dose may be used. If temperature is > 30 °C (86 °F) and chlorine or ammonia levels are low, use a half dose.

I would recommend adding 2 more capfuls.

 

[dlucas10]

Alaris: Thank you. I've added two more capfuls.

So, i've done about a 40% - 50% water change and added prime.

I should do this again tomorrow right??

Thank you everyone for your responses!! This has helped greatly.

 

[Alaris]

Alaris: Thank you. I've added two more capfuls.

So, i've done about a 40% - 50% water change and added prime.

I should do this again tomorrow right??

Thank you everyone for your responses!! This has helped greatly.

Check your water again tomorrow for all three: ammonia, nitrite, nitrates.
If ammonia or nitrite is 0.5ppm or higher, then ~50% pwc and double dose Prime. If nitrates are 40ppm or higher, then pwc as usual.

 

[SpeedEuphoria]

The ammonia is going to be higher then .5, he had 4ppm, did 50% WC, so now its at 2ppm. The test kit should read 2ppm right now. But the ammonia is not harmful. Tomorrow its going to read at least 2ppm also till you do another WC. So you just have to understand that and really your looking for Ammonia of 2.5 or higher at the most to do another WC(sooner the better). Best bet is to do the largest WC you actually can as this is the fastest way to cut the ammonia levels, if you can do a 75% making sure the water temp is close thats your best bet for quicker results.

But yes you should do at least 50% WC's as often as possible for a short while so that your test will read more true and your not guessing at how much toxic ammonia is in there.

Hopefully it wont take long for the bacteria to catch up.

Also if you have not ever tested your tap water or the water you use for the tank, please test it for A, N, N, to just have reference.

How many fish and what kind do you have in there? This will also give you an idea of how fast the ammonia is going to build and how often you need to change the water. More larger fish=more WC's and the bigger the better.

 

[dlucas10]

Yes, right now it's 2ppm.

I will do another test tomorrow and see what it is. I assume it'll be a little higher than 2ppm tomorrow. (I hope it is not)

I did test the tap water ammonia is 0ppm and the nitrate is 5ppm.

Should I remove the ammonia remover from the filter or leave them in there??

I have for fish: 3 - silver dollar, 1 tin foil barbs (maybe about 5 inches long), 2 albino tin foil barbs (roughly 3.5 inches long), 3 - bala sharks (2.5 inches long), 2 - green terrors (2 inches long) one catfish (maybe 4.5 inches long), and one pleco (8 inches).

 

[Alaris]

The ammonia is going to be higher then .5, he had 4ppm, did 50% WC, so now its at 2ppm. The test kit should read 2ppm right now. But the ammonia is not harmful. Tomorrow its going to read at least 2ppm also till you do another WC.

Really? I thought that the bio-filter took care of the treated ammonia after 24 hrs as in it doesn't show up on tests anymore. (Forgot where I read that.) My mistake.
Good to know, Speed. Thanks!

 

[MichaelsLilGray]

If your other stats are good it will.. if he has a ammonia spike as this.. something will be off ballance.. causing the filter not to be able to remove it as normal.

 

[SpeedEuphoria]

Really? I thought that the bio-filter took care of the treated ammonia after 24 hrs as in it doesn't show up on tests anymore. (Forgot where I read that.) My mistake.
Good to know, Speed. Thanks!

If your other stats are good it will.. if he has a ammonia spike as this.. something will be off ballance.. causing the filter not to be able to remove it as normal.

It all depends how much bacteria is left in the tank, much of it was likely in the old filter media that was discarded. Obvious by the Ammonia issue. So the OP basically threw away his/her biolfilter(not being mean to the OP, just simplest way to describe)

I guess if the nitrite and nitrate reading are testing above 0, and depending on how recently this change took place you could guesstimate some things. Like if you test the nitrite/nitrate now in the tank, then before you do another PWC, test again and they rise or the ammonia levels fall, then you could assume that the bacteria is working and should soon catchup. If everything stays the same then there was a big dent to the bacteria and it may take longer to get back on track. Too many varibles.

Best thing is to test and do WC's frequently just to know whats going on and lessen the impact on the fish.

As for the "ammonia remover" I've never used any and dont know much about them, how they work(assuming its similar to prime, which would mean that your current level is hopefully not toxic). Put it this way, the ammonia remover, I have no idea how it works, so lets say it converts most of the ammonia into non toxic? Then how long does it stay effective?

I would rather just use prime and water changes, then I have an idea of how much is toxic rather than just assuming things with the ammonia remover. Just saying that I would not purchase it b/c it would be a guessing game.

But since you already have it, I would leave it as its prob is doing something and I dont think it will harm the bacteria that is trying to reestablish itself

 

[MichaelsLilGray]

The question wasnt if it would harm the bacteria.. the bacteria can actually filter out the non harmful NH4 vs the NH3. But the allotted time between the change in chemistry is the big question here.