Controlling algae

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BrettMad

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jul 16, 2017
Messages
24
Location
Palm Harbor, Florida
My bowfront tank, just been established, has algae. I can see it starting to grow on some of the plant leaves, the driftwood, a little on the glass surfaces and some in the nooks and crannies of the various equipment such as the theater and fan mounts.

I have only had fish in there for about three weeks, and the last two weeks have been dealing with ich. The tetra died, the rest of the fish no longer show any signs, so I think that I have gotten past that problem. However, I was told I should not add fish for at least 3 to 4 weeks after the last of the spots or fish loss,

There are no algae eaters in the tank, just various species of rainbowfish and some gold barbs. Up until now there would have been very little for an algae eater to eat. I am going to add something and I have a quarantine tank that I am cycling so that I can put the eventual algae eaters as well as some bottom feeders in their and not cause yet another problem in my main tank, but all of this means that I am not in a position to add anything to the tank to control the algae.

It was suggested that I should be working on controlling the algae rather than relying entirely on algae eaters, but I do not really know how to do that. This is a planted tank, lights are on an average 14 hours a day as was suggested by the person who help set up the tank for the plants that are there.

I use RO/DI water initially in the tank and for water changes at the moment. I was told the tapwater here tends to exacerbate algae growth, but I am not using any of that yet.

What can I do to try to control the algae until I get something in there that will work on eating it and keeping it clean?
 
Algae grows because it has nutrients and light, just like the other plants. I don't know what your water conditions are but it seems to me that 14 hours a day of light is far too long. Try cutting it down to 10 and see what results.
 
I run my lights for about 10 hours in my planted tank, and was only running them for 8 when I was having algae issues. If it's brown algae (diatoms) you're dealing with, you might be able to chalk that up to new tank. The stuff uses all the extra silica in the water column from new substrate to build its cell walls and will mostly just peter out on its own.

Though I did employ a couple of nerite snails to help get rid of mine, I now have to pay them in algae wafers as my tank just won't support the brown algae I got them to control. Just be ready to provide food for anything you add to get rid of algae that could very well just cease growing in your tank (y)
 
The tank is been in the house for years but sat dormant for at least a decade, I bought the house two years ago and just set up the tank last month. So brand-new substrate, brand-new everything. The algae is brown or reddish-brown. I am hoping a whole new tank thing is the issue.

I just found out today that I have a snail, I have no idea where the snail came from, I am assuming it came along with one of the plants. Sometime when he is close enough to the front and not actually on the front I will have to try to get a picture and see if I can identify them.
 
The tank is been in the house for years but sat dormant for at least a decade, I bought the house two years ago and just set up the tank last month. So brand-new substrate, brand-new everything. The algae is brown or reddish-brown. I am hoping a whole new tank thing is the issue.

I just found out today that I have a snail, I have no idea where the snail came from, I am assuming it came along with one of the plants. Sometime when he is close enough to the front and not actually on the front I will have to try to get a picture and see if I can identify them.



My bowfront tank, just been established, has algae. I can see it starting to grow on some of the plant leaves, the driftwood, a little on the glass surfaces and some in the nooks and crannies of the various equipment such as the theater and fan mounts.



I have only had fish in there for about three weeks, and the last two weeks have been dealing with ich. The tetra died, the rest of the fish no longer show any signs, so I think that I have gotten past that problem. However, I was told I should not add fish for at least 3 to 4 weeks after the last of the spots or fish loss,



There are no algae eaters in the tank, just various species of rainbowfish and some gold barbs. Up until now there would have been very little for an algae eater to eat. I am going to add something and I have a quarantine tank that I am cycling so that I can put the eventual algae eaters as well as some bottom feeders in their and not cause yet another problem in my main tank, but all of this means that I am not in a position to add anything to the tank to control the algae.



It was suggested that I should be working on controlling the algae rather than relying entirely on algae eaters, but I do not really know how to do that. This is a planted tank, lights are on an average 14 hours a day as was suggested by the person who help set up the tank for the plants that are there.



I use RO/DI water initially in the tank and for water changes at the moment. I was told the tapwater here tends to exacerbate algae growth, but I am not using any of that yet.



What can I do to try to control the algae until I get something in there that will work on eating it and keeping it clean?


It sounds like diatoms, but without pictures, I can't say that with certainty. Diatoms are common in new tanks, and they will dissipate with added water changes and time. You may have other algae types with that amount of light duration. Fourteen hours is too much. Reduce it to 6 hours, and then up it in small increments as deemed necessary. Most of the time, algae issues arise from too much lighting, too long of a lighting duration, poor water quality (not enough water changes), poor flow, or an imbalance between lighting, carbon dioxide, and fertilization. As was recommended, it is not wise to rely on algae eaters to solve the problem. Most of the time, they only add to the issue. I use tap water in my tank, and there is barely any algae. I believe RO water should only be necessary when dealing with sensitive invertebrates or insanely demanding plants. Otherwise, it really isn't worth the effort. Do weekly water changes of at least 30%. If you have high light, pressurized CO2 is almost necessary. If you have low lighting, pressurized CO2 isn't needed, but carbon additives will aid in growth.
 
I dealt with algae in my bowfront.... Do you have LED lights running? If so, 14 hours is way too long. Even algae eaters will not be able to keep up... I had 2 otos and a panda garra in mine and still got GSA everywhere. I literally tore the tank down and am about to restart it... But this time I am going to infuse CO2, since that is supposed to help the plants out-compete the algae.

Definitely cut the time down on the lights. You may want to try adding in some carbon.... Flourish Exel might help depending on your plants... just start slowly with it.

Good luck!
 
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