Crazy ph difference

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Of course they do, you just throw most of it away when you change the cartridge.

How long has it been since your last water change and how often do you do them?


Yeah that.

To oversimplify ... Aquariums grow acidic over time. Water changes and a decent KH prevent this together.

Using the Proper pH can be really hard on the fish, between all the fluctuations and the osmotic stress.

Do you know the KH of your water?

Rocks do not raise pH. Some types of rocks sometimes affect KH which can prevent pH from dropping.

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If your tap water is depleted in carbon dioxide, more CO2 will slowly dissolve into it as it goes through filtration in your tank. When carbon dioxide dissolves into water, it forms carbonic acid, and this drops the pH.
 
I have a similar problem, so I keep pieces of limestone in my tank to offset the Ph degassing and drop. Limestone will raise the Kh making Ph easier to maintain.
 
Limestone will. It contains a lot of calcium carbonate, which will slowly dissolve. Carbonate ion is a weak base and will raise the pH.


I didn't know that! I thought carbonate was simply a buffer, so it acts on pH indirectly. Something new every day.

The main idea though is not to look at a tank and say "rocks. Therefore higher pH."


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Ok so I do water changes about once a week 10-20 % and the water Params are

Ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-0 ( I know this is impossible but so low the test showed up as 0)
Ph-6.0
 
Are there any fish in there?? Pic looks barren. .

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Yes 2 bosemani rainbow fish and 2 cory catfish( the cory catfish were in the cave and the rainbows were behind the rock for some reason bottom right hand corner)
 
Make sure you shake the test tubes and reagent bottles as indicated in the instructions when performing the nitrate test.
Yes, zero nitrate does not sound right.


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Make sure you shake the test tubes and reagent bottles as indicated in the instructions when performing the nitrate test.
Yes, zero nitrate does not sound right.


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My LFS tested everything for me the first time.
 
I have a ph one because of all this low ph stuff but might get the rest of them
 
Get the API FW master test kit (cheaper online). Includes ammonia , nitrite, nitrate, pH, and high pH. It may cost less as a kit than buying each test separately.


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I'll go one Amazon and do the math without the ph because I already have that
 
I used proper ph 7.0 and I did not get a chance to do that yet.
 
You might have very soft water. I'd suggest your next step would be to find out your KH and GH. KH is most important. The five pack of five in one test strips often checks this if you don't want to spend a lot.

It would be much better to improve pH with more large water changes. Imagine if you have a bad smell in your kitchen and someone keeps spraying air freshener ... The air will be really full of gunk, and what would be healthiest is opening the window for fresh air.

If your KH is below 3 degrees, it'd be better for your fish to use small doses of api's cichlid buffer and cichlid salts (or seachem equilibrium) to keep pH stable. KH is critical to stable pH without adding so much to the water you induce osmotic stress.

My tap water is extremely soft ... Less than 1 degree KH and GH. In each not quite full 5 gallon bucket of fresh water, I use a quarter teaspoon each API cichlid buffer (for KH) and seachem Equlibrium (for GH) and I never have pH problems anymore. It sets both to about 3 degrees.

If your KH is above 3 degrees and your tap water is of a normal pH, you just need to do more water changes.

I used proper pH 7.0 for 6 months before someone taught me more. I lost a lot of fish that way.

People also recommend crushed coral but I found it to be messy and unpredictable.


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