dechlorination

[purrfect]

Doesn't chlorine come out of tap water already when letting water stand in a bucket? Does anyone use this method before adding new water to tank? How about situation when the tank is new and no fish are added in there yet? If I wait to get to right temperature and right bacteria, won't the chlorine be out by then, too?

 

[MoxieGrrrl]

As far as I know, letting a bucket of water stand overnight will dechlorinate it. I use StressCoat to dechlorinate my water though, I figure it helps fish that have been netted get their slime back.

But of course, I defer to the Mighty Experts of whom I bow before

 

[Feynman]

Yes, chlorine will be released through the surface in a bucket of standing water.

However, you should use water conditioner when doing water changes and therefore don't need to worry about the chlorine from your tap. I put water directly from my sink into the tank. (don't change more then 33% of your water at a time unless emergency occurs)

When starting a tank you need to cycle the aquarium to get the bacteria to start to grow, meaning you need an ammonia source. If you let the tank stand for a few days, the water will be fine for the starter fish. Plus use the water conditioner.

 

[FawnN]

I use StressCoat to dechlorinate my water though

MoxieGrrl, you shouldn't use that Stress Coat too often. In time, that aloe in your tank will cause you problems and create residue in your tank.

You can use it when getting new fish, but don't use it all time when doing water changes.

 

[MoxieGrrrl]

I use StressCoat to dechlorinate my water though

MoxieGrrl, you shouldn't use that Stress Coat too often. In time, that aloe in your tank will cause you problems and create residue in your tank.

You can use it when getting new fish, but don't use it all time when doing water changes.

What should I use to dechlorinate the water when doing water changes then? Is there a product that won't leave residue?

 

[purrfect]

Thanks. For what do I use the water conditioner then? :?

 

[FawnN]

Any water conditioner that says that it only removes/neutralizes Chlorine and Chloramines is what you want with no added ingredients such as aloe.

Stay away from dechlorinators that say they remove ammonia and nitrites. This will end up giving you inaccurate water readings.

I personally use Wardly Chlor out.

 

[BASSNMAN]

The chlorine will evaporate in 48 hours in a open container, 24 hours if you aereate it. I have been told that chlorimines do not. Some cities use it, some don't. I use a product called Super Strength Tap Water Conditioner by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. It takes 1 drop per gallon or 1 teaspoon for 40 gal. Some products take 4 to 8 times this much, so its economical to use.

 

[Blackpearl]

The chlorine will evaporate in 48 hours in a open container

ALL this time I've been covering the bucket of water for my water changes and let it be like that for at least 3 days :?
So I should start removing the cover from now on?

 

[FawnN]

The chlorine might evaporate, but I don't think the chloramines and the heavy metals found in your water will. By adding dechlorinator you won't have to wait and let it sit at all.

Most dechlorinators work instantly and you would be able to place it back in your tank right away.

 

[benji-star]

while this subject has been brought up does anyone recommend any special brand
tia

 

[FawnN]

If you can find Wardly Chlor out, I highly recommend that.

I personally feel that the cheaper one's are great. They only remove/neutralize chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals, without any added ingredients.

The other one's have some added ingredients to promote the slime coat, possibly aloe and other stuff.

I always read the actual ingredients on the back of the bottle and not just what it says on the front.

 

[TomK2]

have been told that chlorimines do not (leave with standing or aeration)

Chloramines do not leave the water by standing or with aeration. That is why cities
like to use it. Chloramine = NH2Cl .Chloramine is more toxic to fish than chlorine. You can destroy chloramine with activated charcoal filtration (not the one in your tank!) but it frees the chlorine to diffuse out and leaves ammonia behind.

Activated Carbon (AC) + NH2Cl + H2O ---> Ammonia (NH3) + H+ + Cl-

You can destroy chloramine with the dechlorinator Thiosulfate with the same results, ammonia left behind.

The ammonia treatment products like Amquel, (and Ammo-lock too?) also strip the chlorine molecule, freeing it to diffuse out, but then bind the ammonia so that it is not free to harm the fish, but is still availble to biofilter for conversion into nitrate. So, you have to get the chloramine out, and unfortunately it places an ammonia load on your biofilter.

Chloramine Sucks.

I believe the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals tap water conditioner has ammo-lock in it as a chlorine/chloramine treatment? Read the label on your dechlorinator, see if it is thiosulfate or something else.

I don't know if you can get the tap water treatment without the stress coat, but the ammonia detoxifiers come that way. Amquel will make a Nessler reagent ammonia test invalid (turns brown, false high NH3 level), and will not affect a salicylate test but the bound and just added NH3 won't register?Ammo-lock will not effect the salicylate ammonia test, but I believe the bound and just added ammonia still registers?

The Thiosulfate and the ammonia detoxifiers/dechlorinators work immediately.

So I should start removing the cover from now on?

Must be open to the air for gas exchange to let the chlorine diffuse out. A cover that allows gas exchange is ok, so just don't have it sealed up air tight.

HTH

 

[Blackpearl]

Must be open to the air for gas exchange to let the chlorine diffuse out. A cover that allows gas exchange is ok, so just don't have it sealed up air tight.

Thanks for the information.
I'm only covering it with a plastic bag so it's not airtight.