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Old 01-01-2012, 02:14 AM   #21
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I'm a fairly patient person but really this guide was meant to show that there's another side to the cycling mantra. I do fish-in cycles because I know it can be done safely. That means for me there is no need to wait for weeks looking at an empty tank, dosing liquid ammonia, etc.

So for me it has nothing to do with patience at all, I just find fishless cycling unnecessary in most situations.

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Old 01-01-2012, 07:09 AM   #22
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great topic!
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:32 PM   #23
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This thread helped me when I first started

Thanks Jeta!
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Old 01-11-2012, 05:59 PM   #24
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Week 7 of 90g fish in cycle, no fatalities.
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Old 09-29-2012, 04:58 PM   #25
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I'm almost 1 week in my fish in cycle and I have 0.25 or 0.50 ammonia or something in between and almost no Nitrites.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:49 AM   #26
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Excellent info thank you!! Just like you mentioned I bought fish from the shop followed his advice but he failed to inform me of this cycling procedure i only had the fish in there for one day and one has died already!! Hense why im looking st this article, i thought i had done eveerything correctly by leaving the tank 'cycling' for three days with some stress coat and stress zyme feed to the water so now I'm gonna go get a ammonia , nitrite and nitrate kit and see what can be done! You also mentioned about taking some good bateria from existing tanks so u recon I should ask the shop to maybe give me a squeeze of their filter of good bateria and add it into mine? That should speed up the cycling right?
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:56 AM   #27
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Yes try to get some seasoned filter media or gravel also if possible.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:16 AM   #28
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@jetajockey...
Thanks for the reply mate, just another question I'm currently observing my fish and they seem to be swimming on the top of the surface almost like they are taking the air directly, they are moving around unlike before when they weren't moving at all and one was dead at the bottom... now constantly moving from left to right) but is this natural? Or should I be concerned? Because the filter box says it's designed for s 10lt tNk and I have put in at least 25lt into mine - is the filter too small for the tank? Is this causing problems?
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:37 AM   #29
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Hovering at the surface is an indication of possible ammonia poisoning. If you can't test the water then it's good practice to do some daily water changes, 40-50% would be a good start.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:55 AM   #30
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Ok, I'm gonna do one now! Dnt wanna wake up 2moro with even less fish! Lol so ..Can I just take the 50% of water out and replace it with tap water ? What about the temperature? Or should I add warm water with some drops of stress coat and stress zyme to what's left in the tank? Sorry for all the questions I'm gona have words with the shop... It's my first time having fish as you have probably guessed!! Your a legend cheers!
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:05 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by FISH_r_FRIENDS
Ok, I'm gonna do one now! Dnt wanna wake up 2moro with even less fish! Lol so ..Can I just take the 50% of water out and replace it with tap water ? What about the temperature? Or should I add warm water with some drops of stress coat and stress zyme to what's left in the tank? Sorry for all the questions I'm gona have words with the shop... It's my first time having fish as you have probably guessed!! Your a legend cheers!
Just temp match the water by hand, it doesn't have to be exact. Always treat new water with a conditioner that removes chlorine and chloramine, both are highly toxic to fish.
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Old 02-07-2014, 08:09 PM   #32
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How long does this take before you get nitrites and nitrates? I broke the rule with how many fish, but still maintaining amm around .5 with daily water changes around 30-40%. The fish are all happy and tank has been up a month. Tank details are in signature...yes, I know, a lot of fish...it has been a month with no casualties and all very content. Water temp is around 80, ph 7.5..
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:45 PM   #33
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Do daily water changes or at least every other day and do not over feed, your tank will cycle.
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:29 PM   #34
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Perhaps shockingly to some, this gets my gold seal of approval Fish-in cycling gets a bad name for 3 reasons IMO- -The old school mentality (still commonly recommended) of sacrificing "hardy" fish in order to cycle your tank. There is simply no reason as responsible hobbyists why we should allow some fish to be damaged / killed just for the sake of keeping others. Jeta addressed that and I totally agree. -Most fish-in cycles are not planned. They are crisis management situations due to bad advice / not having the proper knowledge needed to successfully complete the process, and they find themselves with a tank full of fish with no bio-filter fighting crazy toxin spikes. -Lack of responsibility / commitment / dedication from new aquarists. It's great to see a well mapped out, researched set of instructions to show how it can safety be done. Most of us who already have established aquariums use a similar game plan when setting up new tanks. I'd personally emphasize that there is a big difference between starting with a new, sterile tank, and one where you have access to established media. Seeded media makes a world of difference and can be the difference between a battle and a controlled process IME. If I had to start from scratch it would be fishless, if I talk my girl into the new 72 gallon I want...it would be similar to what's outlined above (though likely a hybrid established media / fishless unless it's for a QT or hospital tank). The only concern I have is with outlining any particular type of water change schedule. People tend to see what they want and forget what they don't...and 2x 50% per week I have a feeling will become the standard advice given (despite the very clear disclaimers you included). I'm a big believer in letting your test kit dictate when water changes need to be done, not using a clock or a calendar. Since fish have different bio-loads and different phases of a cycle present more risk than others...I think it's important to always know what's happening in your aquarium. If you're new to the hobby, have no access to established media / correct types of bottled bacteria or are unsure if you have the time and dedication it requires to keep your fish healthy...I vote fishless. But I totally agree that fish-in cycling can be done completely safely if a hobbyist is informed, dedicated and takes responsibility for the health of their fish. Well done, and I agree it should be added with the newbie resources sticky in the Getting Started forum.
Why is it ok for some to use feeder fish as food but yet if used while cycling is a sacrifice?
I think the term "hardy fish" is referred for those with little to no experience in cycling. Personally I get the fish I want, do massive water changes and the filter will eventually cycle.
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:16 PM   #35
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I am doing the same thing...I think as long as you dedicate the time to it, it works. Its been a month now no casualties...happy fish. A lot of work and can't wait for the nitrites and nitrates to show up.
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:35 AM   #36
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Nice guide to a fish-in cycle,

I'm currently doing one because I had lack of knowledge about it, my partner decided to get our 2 year old a fish and didn't look into it beforehand, I quickly took charge of the situation after reading up about fish keeping.

I have a 60ltr tank with roughly 43ltr of water in it, 1 Platy (started with 2 but 1 died) and 2 Amano shrimp, I was advised on another forum to change 50% everyday, which I have been doing since. (well 16ltr twice a day)

You say just to do 50% twice a week, depending on the toxin levels.

What kind of Ammonia level should I use as a top limit / must change at once kind of indication? I regularly have around 0.5 - 1ppm each morning when I check it.

Thanks.
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Old 04-01-2014, 11:43 AM   #37
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Nice guide to a fish-in cycle,



I'm currently doing one because I had lack of knowledge about it, my partner decided to get our 2 year old a fish and didn't look into it beforehand, I quickly took charge of the situation after reading up about fish keeping.



I have a 60ltr tank with roughly 43ltr of water in it, 1 Platy (started with 2 but 1 died) and 2 Amano shrimp, I was advised on another forum to change 50% everyday, which I have been doing since. (well 16ltr twice a day)



You say just to do 50% twice a week, depending on the toxin levels.



What kind of Ammonia level should I use as a top limit / must change at once kind of indication? I regularly have around 0.5 - 1ppm each morning when I check it.



Thanks.

1ppm is a lot for any fish. I would suggest doing a 80% WC once a week, with 50% every day
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:18 AM   #38
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this post is exactly what I've been looking for! i plan to now use it to start up my newly refurbished 37g tank. thanks so much!


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Old 06-26-2014, 12:28 AM   #39
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Best of luck, if you have any questions feel free to make a thread in the 'getting started' section so we can help out!
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:27 PM   #40
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thank you for this post. I have been out of the hobby for 10 years and found I had to get reedumacated all over again.
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