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More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Carbon:

More like "Everything you never knew you wanted to know about carbon"
Thank you for that!
Although I only use it if I need to remove meds, I thought its primary intended purpose is the removal of ammonia!! I may need you to set me straight on Purigen also.....
 
Also in the canister filter I can use the carbon pellets as opposed to the carbon in the bags?? Seems less cost effective to buy the pelets that aren't in the bags any special procedure to take? And ammount to put in the baskets? Its a 4 layer basket the top three are where the BB pellets are and the bottom two are where the catbon go. All the baskets are split in half also. Any advice on that woild be greatly appreciated

I forgot to mention - the carbon should be the last thing the water sees on its way out. In my canister the water goes into the bottom and is pumped through the media to the top where it goes to the aquarium. If yours is like this, you'll want the carbon in the highest basket. If yours goes the other way, reverse it. Somewhere in there you should have some mechanical filtration though. In mine (an Eheim), the first is ceramic rings, then coarse sponge, then bio media, then fine sponge/floss (polishing), then carbon. You can always move stuff around to whatever arrangements you prefer, but I'd use the carbon last.

Also, knee-high pantyhose are your friend - they're cheap nylon bags, essentially. You can use them for all your loose media. I have my ceramic rings, bio-beads and my carbon all in separate bags. They're made in such a way that you don't even have to tie them off - the top of the nylon will shrink around the media. But if you prefer, it's easy enough to tie them in a knot. And they're fine enough to hold anything you're going to put in your filter. The only thing you'll have to watch is the gunk on the nylon itself. You can rinse it or just change the bag (which is what I do) when it too clogged up.


More like "Everything you never knew you wanted to know about carbon"
Thank you for that!
Although I only use it if I need to remove meds, I thought its primary intended purpose is the removal of ammonia!! I may need you to set me straight on Purigen also.....

Glad it helped! I do have a tendency to go on a bit ...

Unfortunately I know very little about Purigen as it's a manufactured product made specifically for the aquarium industry. Not my speciality, I'm afraid, lol. I do plan to test it out though, at least get it under a microscope. It sounds a bit like a miracle cure, but people seem to like it. If I ever get some of my own data, I'll be sure to let you know. :)
 
Has anyone mentioned that some of your plants look non aquatic? They could be rotting under the substrate causing your high nitrite and nitrate levels.
What types of plants do you have?

Also please check the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your tap water and post the results.

What water conditioner are you using? Prime could really be helpful.
 
Has anyone mentioned that some of your plants look non aquatic? They could be rotting under the substrate causing your high nitrite and nitrate levels.
What types of plants do you have?

Also please check the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your tap water and post the results.

What water conditioner are you using? Prime could really be helpful.

Hi! I believe he checked tap. But you made some very valid points. Good to see!
 
You shouldn't be getting two readings that are so far apart. Try retesting the ph as mistakes can sometimes be made. I did that not long ago on one of my tanks and when I redid it the results made sense.

The reason Mrs. H asked about the low ph reading is because when ph drops to 6.5 BB begins to slow down and when it hits 6.0 or below bacterial activity stops and can actually begin to die off. That's why you need to retest.

The nitrite cycle lasts the longest of all the cycles and can be a real PITA. But if you keep at the WC's you will eventually see the fruits of your labor.
 
Ok just did a test.
Ph at 6.6
High range ph is at 7.4
Ammonia is ia .25
Nitrite is still at 5.0
Nitrate is at 10-20

My ph has never been this low either.
The two plants in the corner are bamboo. I have them in a ten gallon and a 29 gallon tank also. Those two other tanks are fine all the water parameters are with in the specs. So that elliminates that concern. And as far as the other plants in this issue tank I don't lnow the name of them but I Will attach a photo with them. I have two growing lilly pad bubls also in the tank. I used colorado river rocks for decoration (atually from the colorado river) I bought them at a localy owned garden store. I am using a sand bottom.

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Carbon bags should be the last thing the water sees on its way out of the filtration system??
 
I could be wrong but carbon doesn't need to used at all in a planted tank let alone another tank. It is my opinion that carbon is good to take out medications after treating a tank and nothing else, well... Maybe to help with unwanted odors but then again you shouldn't be getting foul odors from a heathy aquarium.

I couldn't tell you the last time I used carbon and in my planted tank I run a Fluval C4 and I don't run the carbon it comes with. I run the filter pad, bio max and a bag of purigen with some poly fill.
 
Ok just did a test.
Ph at 6.6
High range ph is at 7.4
Ammonia is ia .25
Nitrite is still at 5.0
Nitrate is at 10-20

My ph has never been this low either.
The two plants in the corner are bamboo. I have them in a ten gallon and a 29 gallon tank also. Those two other tanks are fine all the water parameters are with in the specs. So that elliminates that concern. And as far as the other plants in this issue tank I don't lnow the name of them but I Will attach a photo with them. I have two growing lilly pad bubls also in the tank. I used colorado river rocks for decoration (atually from the colorado river) I bought them at a localy owned garden store. I am using a sand bottom.

Nitrites are still high IMO. You may have to perform back to back water changes. Like someone asked, have you tested your tap water?

Also you don't need to test both high range and pH levels. Just test the regular pH. High range isn't gonna tell you much. Your getting 2 different readings anyway. It's only gonna confuse things.

NitrAtes are fine IMO, I'm still getting use to my planted tank so I could be off on some of what I say. I'm use to pH of 8.2 so when I see 6.6 or 7.0 I think LOW lol.
 
I treat my tap water with api stress coat I also have kordon amquel plus water conditioner
 
And yes I use test strips on the tap water after conditioner is added to the bucmet to make sure it is safe.
 
The plant in the picture looks like moneywort, bacopa monnero, which is fully aquatic.


Bamboo is not fully aquatic and should be removed asap. It should not be fully immersed and will rot and pollute your tank.

Pull them out of the substrate if you don't believe me and take a picture of what the bottom of the plant looks like.
 
No, test your tap water straight out of the tap, before you add any water conditioner, and post those levels here.

And convict is correct, you don't use both the regular and high range ph tests. The high range is only for testing ph that is too high to register on a normal range ph test. Your ph is low which can kill beneficial bacteria. A water change is needed asap.


Prime can reduce the toxicity of nitrite for 24 hours. Using prime every day with a partial water change can keeo your fish from suffering permanent damage due to nitrite toxicity during a fish in cycle. That's why I reccomend it over any other water conditioner.
 
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