Freshwater RO/DI Systems

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hdultra

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I know that the saltwater Aquariums use RO/DI systems to purify water.

Is this something freshwater can take advantage of.

How could it benefit us ?

If we can use it, What would be the best system to use ?

What system will give the most water flow?

Will we still need chemicals to make water safe ?

I bought the API System. But getting fast running water is time consuming to me.
 
This is not a good option for most* freshwater setups and here is why: RO/DI water has almost 0 TDS (total dissolved solids). In a FW tank, we need some solids/ions to act as buffers to keep the pH stable. In a SW tank, a salt mix is used that then adds the required "stuff" back into the water. It is used in SW to get to a good starting point to make sure that issues with phosphates/nitrates are kept to an absolute minimum.

I put the * in there because there are some instances where it might be necessary... i.e. growing really sensitive plants, or keeping really sensitive animals that require extremely soft, extremely clean water. However, it would require the use of a FW mineral mix or something similar to keep the chances of a pH crash low, and keep the water's pH stable.
 
So you know I bought the API. Mainly to remove the Phosphates and silicates from the water that were feeding the diatoms. My thought if the stuff is no longer in the water, the diatoms would not have them to feed on.


Description From API:
The API Comes with the PH and electro light additives. An easy-to-use, single-cartridge tap water filtration system that removes impurities from tap water, making perfect, deionized aquarium water. Filter resin changes color when it`s time to replace cartridge. Used cartridge can be replaced without tools in minutes. Comes fully assembled and attaches to any faucet in seconds. Includes 4 oz. bottles of Electro-Right and pH Adjuster to treat the filtered water, faucet adapter and tubing. For freshwater, saltwater, African cichlid or community aquariums.

Are these the additives you mentioned.

Would it make any difference to remove the RO Process and just use DI Process.
 
You are right on with removing the source of "food" for the diatoms. I would be careful with the pH adjuster... would have to see more on the electro-right but that sounds like (based on the name) an additive that will put some ions back into the water, while still having water that is free of PO4 and silicates...
 
Ok, so we ruled out Reverse Osmosis. As this is mainly for testing to see if i can rid the tank of diatoms for good. Is there a DI system that will produce more water for less cost. And to include more water flow.

I would think the cost of PH and electro right would be around the same cost for putting in a product such as prime for (Dechlorinated)water.

Will DI remove all the things that prime removes.
 
I think there probably is a DI system you could find that would be cheaper and produce more water than an RO/DI. I am not sure though, because I have never bought one. 1 of the salties may have better info.

As for the cost, I think it would be negligible (for the chemical additives I mean, not the system itself). However, I am weary of ever using the pH altering chemicals... I would opt to add in the mineral mix and test the pH to see where it lies... and if it is an an acceptable level, than just go with it.

Will DI remove all the things prime removes? The only thing that prime really removes is chlorine. I would imagine a decent DI system would bring the Cl- ions (chlorine) to almost 0... so prime may not be required. The cost per PWC is so low though that I would probably use it anyway. As far as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, prime will temporarily "lock" and detoxify the various forms of N we find in the tank, but it will not remove any of them... just the chlorine.
 
As fort explained, some people do use RO/DI systems for sensitive FW fish like discus. A good RO/DI system will output completely pure water. You have to add buffers to the water to prevent pH swings and most RO systems put water out very slowly so it's best to have a holding tank so you can let the system run all day.

Looking at these buffers: Freshwater Planted Aquarium Water Buffers: Seachem Acid & Alkaline Buffer I think it'd be more expensive than Prime, but not by as much as I thought. You do have the cost of the RO membranes and filters though as well as the initial buy-in cost.

Now you've got me thinking that the RO system and buffers might be a good investment to encourage my rams to breed. In fishing, the need to buy something you probably don't need is called having the bait monkey on your back. Do fishkeepers have something equivalent? If not we should. Stupid monkey...
 
As fort explained, some people do use RO/DI systems for sensitive FW fish like discus. A good RO/DI system will output completely pure water. You have to add buffers to the water to prevent pH swings and most RO systems put water out very slowly so it's best to have a holding tank so you can let the system run all day.

Looking at these buffers: Freshwater Planted Aquarium Water Buffers: Seachem Acid & Alkaline Buffer I think it'd be more expensive than Prime, but not by as much as I thought. You do have the cost of the RO membranes and filters though as well as the initial buy-in cost.

Now you've got me thinking that the RO system and buffers might be a good investment to encourage my rams to breed. In fishing, the need to buy something you probably don't need is called having the bait monkey on your back. Do fishkeepers have something equivalent? If not we should. Stupid monkey...


I think that my Max Buffer for Cichlid's would work. And my Cichlid's Salt for African Rift Lakes would also benefit.

I'm not sure about African Trace elements ?

They also say that Iodine is another cause of diatoms. It's found in allot of product we use in fish keeping.
 
I think it would take a lot of iodine to become a problem... unless you are treating with some medication that may contain a high concentration, I don't think it would be the culprit.

I would think that 1 or all of the products you mentioned are going to add buffering capacity back into the RO/DI water, and hopefully don't contain silicates or PO4 of any kind.
 
I think it would take a lot of iodine to become a problem... unless you are treating with some medication that may contain a high concentration, I don't think it would be the culprit.

I would think that 1 or all of the products you mentioned are going to add buffering capacity back into the RO/DI water, and hopefully don't contain silicates or PO4 of any kind.

I double check that fort thanks. The ones BigJim suggested are free of those chemicals.
 
Somebody would make a fortune if they could come up with a plug n play water conditioner or filter that no one had to adjust all the different parameters for fresh water fish. Just hook up the hose and run with it. Fill the tank up, throw the fishes in. Happy fish land no maintenance need lol. except for feeding ans PWC's.

Now I'm really in a dream.... Wake me up.....
 
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