Help after testing needed!

[FwuffyTheBunny]

Hi,

A few days ago my Pleco died. I have a 38 Gallon tank, artificially planted. I only have a few danio's, tetra's, and an upside-down catfish.

Things had been going good for a year (this was my first tank) and now I'm here.

I had gotten my pleco because I had started getting lots of algae. But now that he is gone, even after a week, there is no signs of algae starting to grow. Odd?

I do however have some black algae? There is black fuzz on the corners of my fake plants. I'm not sure what's going on.

I bought a test kit and tested my aquarium water :
Nitrate - 200mg/L
Nitrite - 0mg/L
Hardness - 300GH
Chlorine - 0mg/L
Alkalinity - 20KH
pH-6.2

What should I do?!
Thanks!

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Your Nitrates are extremely high. I would say the excess algae is due to this. In a FW tank, Nitrates should be kept low, ideally around 20-40 ppm but there is much debate about this. Below 40 is a good rule of thumb in general, but you really should shoot for <20 and never higher than 80. Nitrate becomes toxic at that level. This is probably why the pleco died, either that or he got too big and you weren't feeding him. Plecos don't eat much algae when they get really big.

You don't need to worry about hardness or alkalinity so much with a FW tank. The pH seems low though. I suspect you are not doing regular partial water changes (PWCs), or else there's no way the Nitrates could get that high.

How did you arrive at that 200 ppm (same as mg/L) reading?

What brand of test kit are you using?

How often do you do PWCs?

Do you use a gravel vac and suck the gunk out of some the gravel each time?

What kind of filter are you running, and how often do you clean it and/or change the filters?

I would say that right now, you need to do a series of PWCs for 2 purposes: correct the Nitrates down, and correct the pH up. But you need to do it gradually, don't change all the water at once. I would do 20-25% now, then the next day (or about 12 hours later) do 50%, then another 50% the following day. This will bring the Nitrates down below 40 and should bump the pH up a bit.

 

[mudraker]

Sorry to hear about your pleco.

Algae grows when there is a nutrient imbalance in the tank, so I wouldn't worry about lack of algae. The algae on the plants, just pull them up, wipe them off with a wet paper towel and put them back in.

How often do you change your water?

I'd be more concerned to find out why your pleco died.

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

How did you arrive at that 200 ppm (same as mg/L) reading?

What brand of test kit are you using?

How often do you do PWCs?

Do you use a gravel vac and suck the gunk out of some the gravel each time?

What kind of filter are you running, and how often do you clean it and/or change the filters?

I am using a "Jungle" brand 5in1 test kit, and a "Jungle" brand ammonia test kit. Both are done using a strip.

I try to do PWC's every two weeks, but I admit that I wasn't following through with that routine always.

I use a gravel vac and get the brown cloudy stuff out of the gravel.

The filter is an Aquaclear 70. I actually clean it quite regularly because I find it gets noisy fast and I'm constantly cleaning the impeller. The sponge I usually just run through warm water and give it a few squeezes, as I hear the stuff held in these actually aren't bad. And I put in new carbon about 3 weeks ago.

So..

I just did a 25% water change, and I will do some more over the next few days.

I wonder about the chemicals I am using?

I treat my tap water with a water conditioner.
And I usually add some bio-support when I do PWC's.
That's all.

Thanks!

 

[mudraker]

I am using a "Jungle" brand 5in1 test kit, and a "Jungle" brand ammonia test kit

These are very inaccurate tests. Get an API master test kit for more accurate results.

I try to do PWC's every two weeks, but I admit that I wasn't following through with that routine always.

For a healthy tank, you should change at least 25% of your water weekly.

.

The sponge I usually just run through warm water and give it a few squeezes, as I hear the stuff held in these actually aren't bad

When cleaning your sponge, clean it with old aquarium water so the chlorine in your water doesn't kill the "stuff" in it that is good. You shouldn't ever have to change carbon if its in a bag unless it breaks open. The carbon is also is full of good bacteria.
A+ on the water dechlorinator. Those bio-support additives are usually a waste of money at best.

Do the PWS on schedule as Floyd advised and keep up with weekly PWC to keep it healthy and the nitrate levels down.

Good luck!

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Just a note on the carbon, this should only really be used to remove medications, otherwise the small amount of carbon in those packets is pretty worthless, and gets used up in a few days. As for it harboring a biological colony, yes it will, but the downside it that if you leave it in long enough to become biologically effective, it will reach it adsorbtion limit and may start to release chemicals back into the water. So you need to either spend a lot of money constantly replacing carbon, or just stop using it (because there's really no need for it)

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

Ok. I just went out and got an API test kit as mudraker suggested.
I'm going to do a water change in a little bit, and i'll take a test after the water settles.

Another quick question though,
My water level goes down by about 1 inch every week, just from evaporation. Is that normal? It has a full cover too.

And what about this slimy build up..
The residue left behind from the evaporating water builds up this snot like substance that clings to the inside of my cover. I'm cleaning that about every 2 weeks. But even still, sometimes big patches of the stuff will fall into the aquarium, and I don't no how that affects any of the water qualities.

If you experts would shed yet even more light on me, that'd be great!

Thanks!

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Do you have a bubble wand or airstone?

Evap is normal, just top off with dechlorinated tap water as needed.

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

No, I don't have an airstone or any type of bubble maker. Should I? I was actually thinking about getting an LED bubble bar. They look great.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I was trying t figure out if you had anything that was bubbling in the tank, because bubbles breaking on the surface will cause the water to collect on the lid right below the light, and you will get that sludge you are talking about - it's algae growth. No, you don't really need any kind of bubbler as they don't do anything for you, it's just a preference for aesthetics. As long as you have some surface movement of the water and it's not completely covered, you will have good O2 exchange at the surface.

Do you have anything that is causing bubbles to pop at the surface and water to collect on the hood?

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

The only thing that is causing any movement is the filter. And that is very little. Surface water sways calmly, and the bubbles created from the stream coming from the filter go down about 2-3 inches.

There is always what I imagine is condensation on the inside of the lid. Even after a good clean yesterday, today it has drips everywhere. Normal?

So I did another vacuum, and re-arranged all my decorations, and got all up under everything. I even turned my fake log upside down to clean out the hollow inside. I found what looks to be my dead bumblebee catfish. Forgot he even was in there. Never seen him.

Water is settling now, will do a test shortly and post my results.
Should I expect a change in my readings yet? The second water change I did today was a big one.

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

Okay, so I waited another day just to be certain. I did another water change as instructed, and tested.

Nitrate - 190
Nitrite - 0
Hardness - 150
Chlorine - 0
Alkalinity - 20
pH - 6.5

So Sliiight improvement. What should I do? Just continue to do the 50% water changes every day until it gets better?

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

Anyone have any advice?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

How are you figuring that your Nitrate is at 190? The API test kit is very difficult to differentiate when the level gets above about 60 ppm - it all looks the same. The only way I've been able to pinpoint the actual level of Nitrate when it's that high is to dilute the tank water sample with something that has no nitrate, and extrapolate the reading. Just curious as to how you're getting to yours.

How much of a PWC have you been doing, like how many gallons each time?

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

I didn't trust the API test, after it gave me almost the same results as the Jungle. So I took it to a pet store for a free test.

I did one 25%, next day 50%, next day 50%, as instructed.
I have been doing 30%'s since then because I didn't no what to do

So, what do I do? Keep going with these changes? Do more 50's?

Are a series of 50's going to hurt my fish?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Like I said, if your reading is over 60-80 ppm, you won't be able to differentiate, even though the scale goes to 160. Use a syringe (like one you get from a drug store to give medicine to a kid) and suck up 1mL of tank water and put it in the vial. Then get some bottled water or distilled water (something with guaranteed zero nitrates) and use the syringe and suck up 4mL and put that in the vial, test the water, and multiply the results by 5.

Remember that you have to vigorously shake the #2 API Nitrate bottle for about 30 seconds (especially when it's a new kit - longer never hurts) before adding to the vial. Then you must cap and shake for 1 full minute. I wrap a kleenex around the cap and put my thumb over the top and hold tight while shaking. Then you have to wait 5 minutes and compare colors. The API Nitrate test takes a little getting used to, but after 3 or 4 times you'll have it down.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Oh yeah...a series of 50% PWCs should be fine on your fish. I know people that do 50% 2x a week on a regular basis. Cichlids especially like frequent PWCs.

 

[mudraker]

A+ on keeping up with the water changes and keeping up with them. It will do nothing but good for your fish and tank. Also with the testing.

Do use the API test kit, and try Floyd's advice, though it may seem complicated and advanced.

How long are your lights on everyday? That can effect algae growth, which is caused by nutrient imbalances.

 

[FwuffyTheBunny]

Thanks guys! I'll keep doing the PWC's everyday then, and test every few until I get in the safe zone.

I think my test readings might be out a bit, as I am slightly colorblind. I've been trying my best. And that's why I got a pet store test done as well.

Now, the PWC's seem to be bringing down the Nitrate, but there is still almost no alkalinity rise in my water. The water is still staying very acidic.

The water conditioner I use says in contains a pH buffer. Should I be using it sparingly, or a little more freely? Will it help at all? Or just complicate things more. I have only ever added conditioner when adding new tap water, as it instructs. But if I add some to my aquarium water will that do anything?

Sorry for all this. I am an aquarium noob, and am just trying to get all the information I need to be able to maintain a healthy aquarium

PS. I took a close look at the black algae and it seems like there is some new fuzzy GREEN algae growing overtop of it, and beside. Good sign!? I hope!

PSS. I keep my lights on around 8 hours a day. 3pm - 11pm usually.
It might vary a few hours here and there, as I'm not perfect haha.

Maybe I should invest in a timer. Recommendations on a good multi-control timer? So I can control the lights, and eventually some moonlights.

 

[mudraker]

The water conditioner I use says in contains a pH buffer. Should I be using it sparingly, or a little more freely? Will it help at all? Or just complicate things more. I have only ever added conditioner when adding new tap water, as it instructs. But if I add some to my aquarium water will that do anything?

The only chemical you should be using in the water is chorine/chlorimin remover. Buffers and what have you tend to send your ph on a yoyo and that is horrible for your fish.

What is the PH of your tap water? If its the same as in your aquaruim the problem is in your tap water. Or other so-called conditioners could be playing havoc with your parameters.

If your tap is acidic, you might need to try something like a very small amount of crushed coral in your filtration to bump it up a tad.

As for the algae, its just algae.

In a nonplanted tank, it won't hurt anything but can be ugly. The lower nitrate levels will help bring it down some. If it doesn't get down to manageable levels after you get your water parameters stable, you might want to try some amano shrimp or pond snails to get rid of it.

Good for you for going to all the effort to get your tank cleaned up and provide a healthy environment for the fish. Its well worth the effort once you get past the mistakes and set yourself a good maintainence routine.