I'm into just over a weeks fishless cycle

[burrhubb]

I'm into just over a weeks fishless cycle. I understand its a matter of patience. But feel like I'm not getting anywhere and feel like I might be doing something wrong. . I haven't been writing results down till yesterday's but there were more or less same as yesterday's.
so yesterday's results are

No3 50
No2 1
Gh 16
Kh 10
Ph 8
Cl2 ok.

Before doing these results I was told to do 25% water change. So I did. Couple hrs later checked results.

Just done a test now here are my results

No3 100
No2 1-5
Gh 16
Kh 10
Ph 7.2-7.6
Cl2 ok

Should no2 & no3 be rising during cycle? Does it get worse before it gets better? Or as I'm fearing its completely wrong.

Thanks in advance for your help. X

 

[Mebbid]

At first ammonia should be between 0-4ppm and fluctuating quite a bit. The ammonia is getting converted into nitrite once it start to drop. At this point the nitrite should skyrocket. Over time the nitrite should then begin to get converted into nitrate. It will take a while until the nitrite stops climbing and the nitrate will be climbing faster and faster during this period.

The nitrate can only be removed through doing water changes. Everything you're seeing is perfectly normal and moving along very quickly

I would like to add, that you might want to look in to getting an API master test kit. I am assuming that you're using the strips now which, from looking at your nitrate reading shows that they are quite inaccurate.

 

[burrhubb]

Oh ok thanks for your help so I'm doing things right that's a relief haha so how often should I do water changes during cycle? And do I leave filters alone during cycle? I will look into the testing kit you suggested. I'm aware these strips aren't very good but till its showing results coming down will stick with these. So haven't completely wasted money lol.

 

[Mebbid]

I would only do 1 50% water change when the nitrite gets off the chart but I doubt this will happen if you are seeing nitrates. Other than that just a 95% water change the day before you add fish and you will be fine.

You're fine to leave the filter alone as well. Just rinse it off in old tank water once monthly and that will be plenty for it.

 

[jwh0818]

Whats your tank temp? A temp of around 80 degrees is better for a faster tank cycle

 

[burrhubb]

95% water change before adding fish? Didn't think I have to do such a large water change at all (unless fish have illness etc) specially before adding fish??? Won't this effect cycling process that's taken so long?

Tank temp is 27C Or 81F that is the lowest heater will go

 

[jwh0818]

95% water change before adding fish? Didn't think I have to do such a large water change at all (unless fish have illness etc) specially before adding fish??? Won't this effect cycling process that's taken so long?

Tank temp is 27C Or 81F that is the lowest heater will go

Typically yes, if your doing a fishless cycle then you do want to do a huge water change before adding fish because your tank has basically been siting. The fish need fresh re mineralized water so the day before you add fish after the fishless cycle is complete, do a huge water change

 

[Mebbid]

It's not the re mineralization of the water that you need but dropping the nitrates is the primary goal of the water change. After the cycle is done they should be in the 200ish range and you really need to shoot for below 40 on nitrates for the fish's sake.

As for hurting the cycle, it doesn't quite work like that. The VAST majority of the bacteria is going to be living on your filter pad (this is why you should almost never replace it) and anything else in the tank. The water column is fairly devoid of life.

 

[burrhubb]

Oh ok thanks for you help. Should I add the stress coat and nutrafin as I did before when do big change? I think stress coat is a defo as removes chlorine but not sure on nutrafin?

Oh and going back to the temperature of tank I have a gauge floating in tank and one on the glass both same sort etc but both saying slightly diff temps. Which one should I go with?

One on glass 27C/80F
Floating 25c/76f

The one on the glass is opposite and diagonal side to the heater.

 

[Mebbid]

Which nutrafin product are you referring to? Also, yes you should ALWAYS add dechlorinator to any water you add to your tank. Seachem's prime is the forum favorite due to how long it lasts vs cot but the API stress coat is a very nice product as well.

As for the thermometers, pull them both out and stick them in a glass of water to see what they say. It's likely there's a temperature variation in your tank causing the different readings

 

[burrhubb]

Guys I can not thank you enough for your help!! Helped me so much to get my head round it all. (Sorry if I've been asking stupid questions)

I used nutrafin cycle so should I use this when doing my big water change before I add the fish?

Also Im not sure if I should be adding fish food? I did add a little to start with but reading different things I got confused. Does this speed it up?

I will do that with my temperature gauges and see if they still read different.

Thanks again folks

 

[burrhubb]

Ok now I'm possibly over thinking it......

So I basicly leave tank now unless nitrites go off chart then I would do 50% water change.
Ammonia > nitrites (no2)>go sky high> nitrates (no3) I already have no3 although no2 only just rising. If my nitrates rise again do I do a wc? (Says so on my kit)

 

[jwh0818]

Ok now I'm possibly over thinking it......

So I basicly leave tank now unless nitrites go off chart then I would do 50% water change.
Ammonia > nitrites (no2)>go sky high> nitrates (no3) I already have no3 although no2 only just rising. If my nitrates rise again do I do a wc? (Says so on my kit)

Ammo is converted into no2 then converted into no3. If no2 gets too high, your cycle can crash. If no3 gets too high as well its safer than no2. Just do a water change if no2 gets too high

 

[burrhubb]

Thanks

 

[burrhubb]

Think I understand now. Only thing I'm still not sure on is do I add the nitrafin when I do the big water change before adding the fish (and future water changes) or is this a waste of time and money.

I have just ordered the api mater test kit so will get more accurate results soon hopefully

 

[jwh0818]

Think I understand now. Only thing I'm still not sure on is do I add the nitrafin when I do the big water change before adding the fish (and future water changes) or is this a waste of time and money.

I have just ordered the api mater test kit so will get more accurate results soon hopefully

Id honestly skip the nutrifin. Save your money for fish or something. Id get pure ammonia from the hardware store and dose like that

 

[Mebbid]

The nutrafin was already added so there isn't any reason to add more. It won't help anything by adding more. Just be sure to dechlorinate the water before it goes in the tank.