Live bearer survival

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mizter67

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jan 7, 2014
Messages
24
Location
Otterville, Ontario
I love love bearers, have platies and swordtails, and balloon mollies in the past. I haven't had great luck with them living past a few months. Does anyone have any ideas why? My water parameters are great and I monitor them every few days. Is water hardness a possible issue? I never really focused on my ph too much. .... But usually It's around 7.8ish. What my tap water is naturally. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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How big is the tank? Is it cycled? How many fish do you add at a time? And where are you buying your fish?
 
I have a 56 and a 30. Both teams are well cycled and been running for seven months. I buy my fish from Big Als. I never add more that 2-3 fish at a time usually a group of the same species. Don't lose any fish other than live bearers really, and have lots of different varieties. They aren't picked on our tortured by others and go a few months with no sign of distress.

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I've loved and raised livebearers off and on for 50 years. I also grew up where the Molly was native to our waters. There are those that will disagree with my methods but I don't care. This has been very successful for me on adult and fry survival.
First, if you're serious about just raising livebearers you need to dedicate the tank to just them. Livebearers will adjust their water with their biochemistry that is a little different than egglayers.
They do best in 7.2 to 8.2 pH water with a KH of 8 to 20 and the ideal temp is 78F.
Their diet (being a tooth carp) needs to be about half animal & half plant matter.
Now here is the most important fact with especially swords and mollies. Their natural habitat is estuary streams(meaning close enough to the ocean that tidal forces mix salt and fresh water at various times. I have found that keeping salt in their tank at a solution of 1 tsp per 5 gal give maximum health and fry survival. This also works well with Guppies.
A fully planted tank with lots of fine leafed species such as Ambulia give them plenty to munch on and good hiding spots for the fry to hide and grow in.
I have found it is much less stressful on the momma and babies to be born and raised in the tank. An old established tank with lots of bio film, plant matter and accompanying infusorial rotifers give the highest survival and growth rate for the fry. They can take frozen or fresh baby brine shrimp right away.
If you keep the adults well fed, predation of the fry is kept to the deformed and weak fry that need to be culled anyway. About once a year the adults need to be rotated out and new stock added to minimize inbreeding. Hope this helps. OS.
 
Hey Old Scales - I tried the salt as you mentioned in the very beginning but with still no luck. Would it make sense ( based on your comment on the biochemistry) that in a mixed tank the more egglayers The rougher the time the live bearers may have? I will definitely move towards a dedicated livebearer tank. Is there a minimum size you'd recommend and any of the common species that shouldn't be mixed?

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Hi Mizter,
Yes, I found out through the years that the more egglayers were with my livebearers the more poorly they did. If you want a serious set up for raising and selling/trading stock I like the 20 long and even better the 29 regular for guppies and Endlers snd a 30g long or 40g breeder for lots of Swords and Mollies and Platys. If you want pure strains, don't mix Guppies and Endlers (unless already hybrids) and Swords and Platys will cross bred. OS.
 
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