Ph, Gh and Kh for beginners. Have I got this right?

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Masha

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Being a beginner with very little knowledge of chemistry, I've been reading up on Ph, Kh and Gh. I've tried to compile a list of facts and explanations suitable for people like me. It would be fantastic if some of the more knowledgeable members here could have a look and tell me where I'm getting things wrong, or what I've left out?

Ph Gh Kh Cheat Sheet

Bottom line: Fish prefer constant ph over perfect ph. Most fish will adapt a particular ph, but stress if ph swings, so most of the time, its better to keep ph steady, rather than keep it at a specific value.

Ph
Ph is a measure of how acidic or alkaline water is. A ph of 7 is neutral. Above 7 is alkaline, below 7 is acidic. The higher the value, the more alkaline, the lower, the more acidic.

This one is important:
The ph scale is logarithmic, which means that values on the scale ( 5...6….7...8...9...etc) don’t represent equal amounts of change in acidity or alkalinity. In other words, the difference between ph5 and ph6 is not the same as the difference in ph6 and ph7.

It’s not like a ruler, where the distance between 5cm and 6cm = 1cm and the distance between 6cm and 7cm also = 1cm. The ph scale moves outward from 7, with each “step” in the scale being ten times the size of the previous step. The scale below gives you an idea, but to be accurate, I’d have to fit 100 dashes in between 4 and 5, and between 9 and 10. The page is not wide enough :)

4-----------------------------------5 ---------- 6 - 7- 8 ---------- 9-----------------------------------10


In other words, if water changes from ph7 to ph6, it’s one step more acidic. But if it changes from ph6 to ph5, it’s ten steps more acidic. And if it changes from ph5 to ph4, it’s one hundred steps more acidic.

This is important, because fish are so sensitive to changes in ph. Remember that if the ph swings from ph8 to ph9, that’s going to be a big change from the fish’s point of view, while a change from ph7 to ph8 is not as big.

Ph and Ammonia Toxicity
Ammonia is toxic to fish. But it’s a lot more toxic in water with a high Ph, than in water with a low Ph.


Ph and Kh- “Buffering”
Kh stands for “Carbon Hardness” and measures how much Calcium Carbonate the water contains.

The Kh and Ph measures are related. The higher the Kh, the higher the Ph. Although Kh is not the only thing that raises Ph, it’s one of them :)

Kh is also referred to as the water’s “buffering ability”. If the water has a good “buffer” it means that it is less likely to change its Ph value. In other words, if the water in your tank has a low Kh value, this means that various events (cycling the tank, adding rocks or driftwood etc) are likely to make that Ph value change quickly. If the tank has a high Kh value, apart from the fact that the Ph will be higher too, whatever happens in that tank, it’s unlikely that the Ph will change much. High Kh = more stable Ph.

If you needed, for some reason, to lower the Ph of the tank, you’d have to lower the Kh as well. Not just because Kh increases the alkalinity, but also because Kh makes it harder to change the Ph.

This is one of the reasons it’s not a great idea to use distilled water in a fishtank. Distilled water sounds great - it’s pure, right? Its Ph is neutral (7) and it has a Kh of 0. No Calcium Carbonate at all in distilled water. That means that a tank full of distilled water can change it’s Ph easily and rapidly, a very bad idea for the fish.

Other reasons Kh is important
Calcium Carbonate (the value that is measured by Kh) is also a very important to the health of your fish, plants and invertebrates. It’s needed for bone and teeth development, it helps regulate blood flow, helps the immune system and metabolism, and also promotes healthy heart.

This is another reason why distilled water is not the best for fish. It contains none of the essential minerals like Calcium Carbonate.

Gh
Gh measures General hardness. It measures the amount of all the minerals in the tank, including Calcium Carbonate. So you can see that Kh and Gh are related :). Gh measures Magnesium, Calcium Carbonate, Sodium, Sulphur, Potassium, and Chloride. But of these, the mineral that is most significant in the Gh measure is Magnesium. Magnesium is just as important for fish health as Calcium Carbonate. It aids digestion, immunity, growth, gill development among other things.

Common reasons Ph might change in an aquarium

Cycling, overstocking, lack of water changes
Nitrifying bacteria, the beneficial bacteria we rely on to process ammonia and nitrites into nitrates, use Calcium Carbonate in order to duplicate themselves and process their food (ammonia and nitrites).

If the Kh level in the water is low already, that means that the bacteria will use up a large percentage of the available Calcium Carbonate. Remember Kh is related to Ph and also buffers Ph? So if Kh drops, this means that Ph levels will drop as well, and because of the reduced buffering capacity, that drop might be fast. Some call this a “Ph Crash”.

This is especially likely to happen in the first stages of cycling a tank, when the bacteria is multiplying at a high rate. This can also happen if a tank is overstocked and there is a high level of ammonia present for the bacteria to process.

The drop in Ph as a result of the action of the nitrifying bacteria means that most tanks will gradually get more and more acidic. If a tank is neglected, with few or no water changes performed, the result might be a significant drop in Ph over time. This drop is likely to be fairly gradual and in itself might not be that bad for the fish. But if a big water change is performed at this point, the clean water coming in is likely to be quite different in Ph from the old water going out, and this can be stressful for the fish. In this situation it’s probably better to perform a series of small water changes over a number of days, rather than one big one all at once.

Ph and Bacteria
As mentioned in the previous section on Ph in cycling, the nitrifying bacteria need a certain level of Kh to duplicate and process the wastes in the water. Below a certain Ph, they can no longer do so. At or below a Ph or 6, nitrifying bacteria stop reproducing. This is why the nitrogen cycle might slow or stall in a tank where the Ph has crashed to 6 or below.

Carbon Dioxide CO2
When Carbon Dioxide comes in contact with water it dissolves and forms a weak acid called Carbonic Acid. So the more carbon dioxide there is in the water, the lower the Ph will be.
Carbon Dioxide can be absorbed from the atmosphere, be given off by plants, or added by a CO2 injection system.
Plants absorb CO2 during photosynthesis, when they are exposed to light, and the give off CO2 as part of their respiration process, when they are not exposed to light. This can mean that in a planted tank, the CO2 levels, and so the Ph, will swing gradually up and down during the day and night, as plants respond to light levels.

Chlorine
Chlorine is alkaline. It also outgasses out of water gradually, usually over a period of 24 hours. This is why, when measuring the Ph of your tapwater, it’s best to let it sit for 24 hours until the chlorine is gone, otherwise you will get an inaccurately high reading. Remember that water conditioners like Prime don’t remove the chlorine, it only makes it safe. So testing tap-water which has just had Prime added to it, will also give you an inaccurate Ph as the chlorine is still present.

Rocks, shells, Peat, Driftwood, and dead leaves.
Rocks that are high in calcium, like limestone or marble, and objects like sea-shells will leach calcium into the water and increase the Kh, and so also the Ph.

Driftwood, and dead leaves release tannin, which is acidic. So these will lower the Ph.

Peat bonds with the calcium carbonate in water, and prevents it from bonding with the water itself, so lowering the concentration of calcium carbonate in the water, resulting in a lower Kh.

“Soft” and “Hard” water.

The Gh value is usually the one people refer to when they talk about their water being “soft” or “hard”. Water with a low Gh is soft, water with a high Gh is hard. For example, areas with lots of limestone (high in calcium) will likely have very hard water, and typically, that calcium will leave stains and calcium deposits as the water evaporates.
Rain water is typically quite soft, it doesn’t have a high mineral content.

Remember that Gh and Kh are related (Gh includes the amount of Calcium Carbonate, or Kh) so if water has a low Gh, it has a low Kh as well. This means that soft water is likely to have very little buffering capacity, and the Ph of soft water is likely to change more easily, the Ph is more likely to be unstable.

Methods to change Kh and Gh
As mentioned, to lower Ph, it’s also necessary to lower Kh. Partly because Calcium Carbonate is alkaline, so removing it will lower the Ph, but also because the presence of Calcium Carbonate makes it more difficult to lower the Ph.

Methods to lower Kh include:
Adding CO2
Peat - it bonds with the Calcium Carbonate and prevents it from bonding with the water - thus lowering the Kh level in the water
Mixing in Reverse Osmosis water (RO water has 0 kh)

Methods to increase Kh include:
Adding baking soda (may not be a great idea as it changes levels rapidly, and you need to keep adding it over time)
Adding an airstone to increase turbulence and drive off CO2
Coral chips or limestone will leach Calcium into the water


Here are some of the articles I got this information from:

Important: Understanding PH, KH, GH In Home Aqauriums - 113548

Water Chemistry: pH, GH and KH What are they all? - Scott Thomson

KH - The Free Freshwater and Saltwater Aquarium Encyclopedia Anyone Can Edit - The Aquarium Wiki

Ammonia Toxicity and pH Changes
 
I hope it is helpful, Tacit Blue! I also hope that it is accurate. For example I'm not sure if the information at the end, about raising and lowering kh is correct...

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Nice! I'm not exactly a beginner but I didn't know some of this stuff. Hopefully someone more experienced can come and correct if needed


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This one is important:
The ph scale is logarithmic, which means that values on the scale ( 5...6….7...8...9...etc) don’t represent equal amounts of change in acidity or alkalinity. In other words, the difference between ph5 and ph6 is not the same as the difference in ph6 and ph7.

It’s not like a ruler, where the distance between 5cm and 6cm = 1cm and the distance between 6cm and 7cm also = 1cm. The ph scale moves outward from 7, with each “step” in the scale being ten times the size of the previous step. The scale below gives you an idea, but to be accurate, I’d have to fit 100 dashes in between 4 and 5, and between 9 and 10. The page is not wide enough :)

4-----------------------------------5 ---------- 6 - 7- 8 ---------- 9-----------------------------------10


In other words, if water changes from ph7 to ph6, it’s one step more acidic. But if it changes from ph6 to ph5, it’s ten steps more acidic. And if it changes from ph5 to ph4, it’s one hundred steps more acidic.

This is important, because fish are so sensitive to changes in ph. Remember that if the ph swings from ph8 to ph9, that’s going to be a big change from the fish’s point of view, while a change from ph7 to ph8 is not as big.
I don't think this section is quite correct. pH 5 water is 10 times more acidic than pH6 water. pH 4 water is 10 times more acidic than pH 5 water and 100 times more acidic than pH 6 water. However, moving from 6->5 is them same as moving from 5->4 relatively speaking, 10 times more.

Ph and Ammonia Toxicity
Ammonia is toxic to fish. But it’s a lot more toxic in water with a high Ph, than in water with a low Ph.
I believe nitrite toxicity is the opposite, more toxic in acidic water.

This is another reason why distilled water is not the best for fish. It contains none of the essential minerals like Calcium Carbonate.
It really depends on the fish. Many fish come from highly acidic water where KH is basically 0. These fish are adapted to living in these conditions and will thrive in them.

Gh
Gh measures General hardness. It measures the amount of all the minerals in the tank, including Calcium Carbonate. So you can see that Kh and Gh are related :). Gh measures Magnesium, Calcium Carbonate, Sodium, Sulphur, Potassium, and Chloride.
I am not an expert on GH but I thought it measured only Calcium and Magnesium.

Chlorine
Chlorine is alkaline. It also outgasses out of water gradually, usually over a period of 24 hours. This is why, when measuring the Ph of your tapwater, it’s best to let it sit for 24 hours until the chlorine is gone, otherwise you will get an inaccurately high reading. Remember that water conditioners like Prime don’t remove the chlorine, it only makes it safe. So testing tap-water which has just had Prime added to it, will also give you an inaccurate Ph as the chlorine is still present.
At least in the US, less and less water is treated with chlorine. It is typically treated with Chloramines which will not be removed by standing for 24 hours.

Rocks, shells, Peat, Driftwood, and dead leaves.
Driftwood, and dead leaves release tannin, which is acidic. So these will lower the Ph.
Only if KH is sufficiently low to allow this.
 
I don't think this section is quite correct. pH 5 water is 10 times more acidic than pH6 water. pH 4 water is 10 times more acidic than pH 5 water and 100 times more acidic than pH 6 water. However, moving from 6->5 is them same as moving from 5->4 relatively speaking, 10 times more.

You are correct! Thanks for pointing that out.

I believe nitrite toxicity is the opposite, more toxic in acidic water.

That's a great point. I'll add that in.

It really depends on the fish. Many fish come from highly acidic water where KH is basically 0. These fish are adapted to living in these conditions and will thrive in them.

That's also a relevant point

I am not an expert on GH but I thought it measured only Calcium and Magnesium.

I found some sources that only mention calcium and magnesium, and others that mention the whole list I have there so I'm not sure about this one.

At least in the US, less and less water is treated with chlorine. It is typically treated with Chloramines which will not be removed by standing for 24 hours.

That's true, but I don't think that affects ph? Maybe I should just mention that not every place uses chlorine, but for those that do...


Only if KH is sufficiently low to allow this.


I'll add that in.

Wish I could edit the original post! Thanks for your help.
 
My second attempt to understand the Ph scale - I think this is correct now, thanks Dalto for pointing out this mistake:

The ph scale moves outwards from 7, with each step being ten times larger (from 7) than the one before. So for example, if the difference between ph 6 and ph7 is 1 unit, the difference between ph5 and ph7 is ten units, and the difference between ph 4 and ph7 is a hundred units. The scale below is only an approximation as I can’t fit enough dots in to show the true distance between 4 and 5, and 9 and 10 :)

4………………………………. 5 ……...6. 7. 8……... 9……………………………...10

In other words, if water changes from ph7 to ph6, it’s one step more acidic. But if it changes from ph7 to ph5, it’s ten steps more acidic. And if it changes from ph7 to ph4, it’s one hundred steps more acidic.

This is important, because fish are so sensitive to changes in ph. Remember that if the ph swings from ph7 to ph9, that’s going to be a big change from the fish’s point of view, while a change from ph7 to ph8 is not as big.
 
Getting there :) 5-6 = 10 x 5-7 = 100 x 5-8 = 1000 x and so on.

Also it doesn't have to be calcium carbonates that define kh it is any carbonate or bicarbonate that changes it. For example sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) will alter kh value.

Nice attempt at an in depth article. Lots of positives to draw from this and good information for newbies.


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Getting there :) 5-6 = 10 x 5-7 = 100 x 5-8 = 1000 x and so on.
I'm going to have to look at that again - my brain isn't parsing this! :)

Also it doesn't have to be calcium carbonates that define kh it is any carbonate or bicarbonate that changes it. For example sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) will alter kh value.

Sorry - I don't understand this either :) What part specifically should I change? The definition of Kh, or the bits on how to alter it?
 
Well your opening paragraph on kh states that kh stands for carbonate hardness and measures the calcium carbonate in the water. Kh is just a measure of carbonate content. It is not specific to calcium carbonate as the phrase suggests.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice
 
Being a beginner with very little knowledge of chemistry, I've been reading up on Ph, Kh and Gh. I've tried to compile a list of facts and explanations suitable for people like me. It would be fantastic if some of the more knowledgeable members here could have a look and tell me where I'm getting things wrong, or what I've left out?

Ph Gh Kh Cheat Sheet

Bottom line: Fish prefer constant ph over perfect ph. Most fish will adapt a particular ph, but stress if ph swings, so most of the time, its better to keep ph steady, rather than keep it at a specific value.

Ph
Ph is a measure of how acidic or alkaline water is. A ph of 7 is neutral. Above 7 is alkaline, below 7 is acidic. The higher the value, the more alkaline, the lower, the more acidic.

This one is important:
The ph scale is logarithmic, which means that values on the scale ( 5...6….7...8...9...etc) don’t represent equal amounts of change in acidity or alkalinity. In other words, the difference between ph5 and ph6 is not the same as the difference in ph6 and ph7. While the previous commenter took issue with this, I think it's more correct. It's the same relatively, but absolutely the difference is much greater. pH

It’s not like a ruler, where the distance between 5cm and 6cm = 1cm and the distance between 6cm and 7cm also = 1cm. The ph scale moves outward from 7, with each “step” in the scale being ten times the size of the previous step. The scale below gives you an idea, but to be accurate, I’d have to fit 100 dashes in between 4 and 5, and between 9 and 10. The page is not wide enough :)

4-----------------------------------5 ---------- 6 - 7- 8 ---------- 9-----------------------------------10


In other words, if water changes from ph7 to ph6, it’s one step more acidic. But if it changes from ph6 to ph5, it’s ten steps more acidic. And if it changes from ph5 to ph4, it’s one hundred steps more acidic.

This is important, because fish are so sensitive to changes in ph. Remember that if the ph swings from ph8 to ph9, that’s going to be a big change from the fish’s point of view, while a change from ph7 to ph8 is not as big. A previous commenter took issue with this, but I think it's better like this. A change from a pH of 7 to 8 and 8 to 9 is relatively the same (10x), but absolutely it's much more; it's the same difference as 1 to 10 and 10 to 100, relatively the same but absolutely much more significant.

Ph and Ammonia Toxicity
Ammonia is toxic to fish. But it’s a lot more toxic in water with a high Ph, than in water with a low Ph. I would not include the bit about nitrite. I does become more toxic, but only at levels well below what our tanks will ever get to.


Ph and Kh- “Buffering”
Kh stands for “Carbon Hardness” and measures how much Calcium Carbonate the water contains.

The Kh and Ph measures are related. The higher the Kh, the higher the Ph. Although Kh is not the only thing that raises Ph, it’s one of them :)

Kh is also referred to as the water’s “buffering ability”. If the water has a good “buffer” it means that it is less likely to change its Ph value. In other words, if the water in your tank has a low Kh value, this means that various events (cycling the tank, adding rocks or driftwood etc) are likely to make that Ph value change quickly. If the tank has a high Kh value, apart from the fact that the Ph will be higher too, whatever happens in that tank, it’s unlikely that the Ph will change much. High Kh = more stable Ph.

If you needed, for some reason, to lower the Ph of the tank, you’d have to lower the Kh as well. Not just because Kh increases the alkalinity, but also because Kh makes it harder to change the Ph. The simple act of lowering pH will decrease KH due to how the H2CO3/HCO3 buffer works. It would be easier to reduce both KH and pH, but not necessary.

This is one of the reasons it’s not a great idea to use distilled water in a fishtank. Distilled water sounds great - it’s pure, right? Its Ph is neutral (7) and it has a Kh of 0. No Calcium Carbonate at all in distilled water. That means that a tank full of distilled water can change it’s Ph easily and rapidly, a very bad idea for the fish.

Other reasons Kh is important
Calcium Carbonate (the value that is measured by Kh) is also a very important to the health of your fish, plants and invertebrates. It’s needed for bone and teeth development, it helps regulate blood flow, helps the immune system and metabolism, and also promotes healthy heart. Does it? Plants and inverts maybe, not so sure about the other things

This is another reason why distilled water is not the best for fish. It contains none of the essential minerals like Calcium Carbonate.

Gh
Gh measures General hardness. It measures the amount of all the minerals in the tank, including Calcium Carbonate. So you can see that Kh and Gh are related :). Gh measures Magnesium, Calcium Carbonate, Sodium, Sulphur, Potassium, and Chloride. But of these, the mineral that is most significant in the Gh measure is Magnesium. Magnesium is just as important for fish health as Calcium Carbonate. It aids digestion, immunity, growth, gill development among other things.

As previously mentioned, GH is only Ca and Mg, and Ca is the most important component in the vast majority of cases.

Common reasons Ph might change in an aquarium

Cycling, overstocking, lack of water changes
Nitrifying bacteria, the beneficial bacteria we rely on to process ammonia and nitrites into nitrates, use Calcium Carbonate in order to duplicate themselves and process their food (ammonia and nitrites).

If the Kh level in the water is low already, that means that the bacteria will use up a large percentage of the available Calcium Carbonate. Remember Kh is related to Ph and also buffers Ph? So if Kh drops, this means that Ph levels will drop as well, and because of the reduced buffering capacity, that drop might be fast. Some call this a “Ph Crash”. As above, lowering pH will actually consume KH as the buffer is essentially 'overrun' by acid

This is especially likely to happen in the first stages of cycling a tank, when the bacteria is multiplying at a high rate. This can also happen if a tank is overstocked and there is a high level of ammonia present for the bacteria to process.

The drop in Ph as a result of the action of the nitrifying bacteria means that most tanks will gradually get more and more acidic. If a tank is neglected, with few or no water changes performed, the result might be a significant drop in Ph over time. This drop is likely to be fairly gradual and in itself might not be that bad for the fish. But if a big water change is performed at this point, the clean water coming in is likely to be quite different in Ph from the old water going out, and this can be stressful for the fish. In this situation it’s probably better to perform a series of small water changes over a number of days, rather than one big one all at once.

Ph and Bacteria
As mentioned in the previous section on Ph in cycling, the nitrifying bacteria need a certain level of Kh (pH?) to duplicate and process the wastes in the water. Below a certain Ph, they can no longer do so. At or below a Ph or 6, nitrifying bacteria stop reproducing. This is why the nitrogen cycle might slow or stall in a tank where the Ph has crashed to 6 or below.

Carbon Dioxide CO2
When Carbon Dioxide comes in contact with water it dissolves and forms a weak acid called Carbonic Acid. So the more carbon dioxide there is in the water, the lower the Ph will be.
Carbon Dioxide can be absorbed from the atmosphere, be given off by plants, or added by a CO2 injection system.
Plants absorb CO2 during photosynthesis, when they are exposed to light, and the give off CO2 as part of their respiration process, when they are not exposed to light. This can mean that in a planted tank, the CO2 levels, and so the Ph, will swing gradually up and down during the day and night, as plants respond to light levels. (pH isn't going to swing in most tanks as the CO2 levels are very low in general, means it goes from low to none. This is not the case in tanks with high CO2 due to injection)

Chlorine
Chlorine is alkaline. It also outgasses out of water gradually, usually over a period of 24 hours. This is why, when measuring the Ph of your tapwater, it’s best to let it sit for 24 hours until the chlorine is gone, otherwise you will get an inaccurately high reading. Remember that water conditioners like Prime don’t remove the chlorine, it only makes it safe. So testing tap-water which has just had Prime added to it, will also give you an inaccurate Ph as the chlorine is still present.(as previously mentioned, most municipalities use chloramines that don't gas out. That being said, there are still gases dissolved in tap water for whatever reason that needs to offgas that will change the pH, chlorine or no.)

Rocks, shells, Peat, Driftwood, and dead leaves.
Rocks that are high in calcium, like limestone or marble, and objects like sea-shells will leach calcium into the water and increase the Kh and GH, and so also the Ph.

Driftwood, and dead leaves release tannin, which is acidic. So these will lower the Ph.

Peat bonds with the calcium carbonate in water, and prevents it from bonding with the water itself, so lowering the concentration of calcium carbonate in the water, resulting in a lower Kh.

“Soft” and “Hard” water.

The Gh value is usually the one people refer to when they talk about their water being “soft” or “hard”. Water with a low Gh is soft, water with a high Gh is hard. For example, areas with lots of limestone (high in calcium) will likely have very hard water, and typically, that calcium will leave stains and calcium deposits as the water evaporates.
Rain water is typically quite soft, it doesn’t have a high mineral content.

Remember that Gh and Kh are related (Gh includes the amount of Calcium Carbonate, or Kh) so if water has a low Gh, it has a low Kh as well (not true. GH and KH are generally independent of one another, where GH measures Ca and Mg and KH measures carbonates (HCO3-/CO3--). They are generally similar because most water gets its KH and GH from CaCO3, but this is not always true, and is often completely different). This means that soft water is likely to have very little buffering capacity, and the Ph of soft water is likely to change more easily, the Ph is more likely to be unstable.

Methods to change Kh and Gh
As mentioned, to lower Ph, it’s also necessary to lower Kh. Partly because Calcium Carbonate is alkaline, so removing it will lower the Ph, but also because the presence of Calcium Carbonate makes it more difficult to lower the Ph.

Methods to lower Kh include:
Adding CO2 (Won't lower CO2 at all; will actually add to it)
Peat - it bonds with the Calcium Carbonate and prevents it from bonding with the water - thus lowering the Kh level in the water (Bonds with calcium, reduces KH via acidity)
Mixing in Reverse Osmosis water (RO water has 0 kh)

Methods to increase Kh include:
Adding baking soda (may not be a great idea as it changes levels rapidly, and you need to keep adding it over time)
Adding an airstone to increase turbulence and drive off CO2 (As above)
Coral chips or limestone will leach Calcium into the water


Here are some of the articles I got this information from:

Important: Understanding PH, KH, GH In Home Aqauriums - 113548

Water Chemistry: pH, GH and KH What are they all? - Scott Thomson

KH - The Free Freshwater and Saltwater Aquarium Encyclopedia Anyone Can Edit - The Aquarium Wiki

Ammonia Toxicity and pH Changes


See comments. Also, KH, GH: both letters always capitalized. With pH, H always capitalized, p never capitalized.
 
It really depends on the fish. Many fish come from highly acidic water where KH is basically 0. These fish are adapted to living in these conditions and will thrive in them.

While this is true, it translates very poorly into practice, as large bodies of water effectively dilute the acidity, negative acid accumulation somewhat. But in small tanks, the lack of KH is potentially dangerous as there is nothing to prevent pH drops.
 
As far as I am aware GH is the measure of divalent metal ions of which there are many. The most common are calcium and magnesium and is what our testers are look for but essentially gh is made up of many other things.

Nitrifying bacteria require carbonates and use up the waters alkalinity. 7.14ppm per 1 part ammonia.


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About the 10x pH issue: I think your diagram is inconsistent. The way you represented it is that 7 is the middle. That is true if you are referring to BOTH alkalinity AND acidity. As the acidity increases, the alkalinity decreases, so that when the pH=7, the alkalinity and acidity are equal. Basically, with your scale, with numbers under 7 you are referring to the acidity and above 7 you are referring to the alkalinity. Does that make sense? The way your diagram showed it, 7 was the middle. I think you were trying to show both the acidity and the alkalinity but that won't work with the type of diagram you made.

For example: this is a diagram of the acidity and ONLY the acidity changes as the pH changes.

(1)10000000x-(2)1000000x-(3)100000x-(4)10000x-(5)1000x-(6)100x-(7)10x-(8)1x-(9)0.1x-(10)


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No problem, I just edited the post to be a little more clear. Overall, the guide is great and everyone else has pointed out anything I saw that was an issue.


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I'm going to make this into a Google doc and post the link people can check the updates I've made. Thanks again for all the help.
 
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