Please help me save my tank?

[CoreyLynn]

Recently, a lot of personal and family problems have come up and unfortunately, my tank has suffered because of it. Things have finally settled down, and I am now trying to get my tank back on track. I have a 30 gallon freshwater tank. Some of the fish had unfortunately died off, and we were left with one Zebra Danio, one Opaline Gourami, and one Butterfly Pleco [L052].
We noticed the gourami had some sores on his body, one particularly bad one underneath his left gill. We tested the water with Tetra Easy Strips and every single level was well into the danger zone.
We took a trip to our LFS where we purchased new substrate, new decorations, a new heater, a new box of filters, and an API Freshwater Master Test Kit, amongst some other small things like replacement Tap Water Conditioner.
We came home and quarantined the fish in a 10 gallon filled with tank water and two air stones while we did a massive water change. I'd say it was about a 70% water change, we kept about 13-ish gallons of tank water. We conditioned the new water that went in and also added a dose of Quick Start to help the fresh water get going, as well as replacing the filter inserts. We have an extra filter bag in, to hopefully help clear out our water a bit better.
After we replaced the fish, we added some Stress Coat and fed them.
We also moved the tank into a room that we spend more time in, so we can monitor them more closely and prevent this from happening again.
The day after the "tank overhaul", the fish showed noticeable improvement. The gourami's sores were no longer red, and they already appeared to be healing. All the fish were much more active than they were previously, and they were all eating better.
Two days later, we tested the water again, this time with the API Master Test Kit. Our water was MUCH better!
Our water tested well enough to add new fish, so we did. We got some more Danios so our little guy could school, two more gouramis, and a little Leporinus Fasciatus. All fish, new and old, seem very happy. They're eating like little piggies and they all seem to get along without any bullying, thankfully.
However, we did about a 15-ish% water change last night before bed. This morning we tested our water and found a huge Nitrite spike. Our Nitrite level was 0, and today it's 1.0. My levels currently read as follows:

Ammonia: 1.0 ppm
Nitrate: 80 ppm
Nitrite: 1.0
P.H.: 7.4 - 7.6

My tank has been established for well over two years, probably closer to three. I don't know what happened or why there is this sudden spike after we had gotten it under control?

Any help or information would be much appreciated!

 

[CoreyLynn]

Here is a photo of the tank, if it helps at all

 

[TeenyFish]

When you say "replacing filter inserts"... do you mean you threw the old ones away?

If so, you're now doing a pretty-much-new cycle, and fish-in at that.

This can be done, don't panic.

Get prime, if you haven't already.

You need to test your water every 24 hours, and be prepared to do daily water changes.

Test your water. If A(mmonia) and N(itrites) TOTAL above 1ppm, do whatever size water change is necessary to bring them down below 1ppm.
So if A is 1ppm, and N is 1ppm, do a 50-60% change, and dose prime for the entire tank.
Wait 24 hours.
Test again.
Repeat above.

If A is 0.5 and N is 0.5, you don't need to do a change, just dose prime and check again in 24 hours.

Obviously whenever NitrAte goes over 20ppm, change regardless.

 

[CoreyLynn]

When you say "replacing filter inserts"... do you mean you threw the old ones away?

If so, you're now doing a pretty-much-new cycle, and fish-in at that.

This can be done, don't panic.

Get prime, if you haven't already.

You need to test your water every 24 hours, and be prepared to do daily water changes.

Test your water. If A(mmonia) and N(itrites) TOTAL above 1ppm, do whatever size water change is necessary to bring them down below 1ppm.
So if A is 1ppm, and N is 1ppm, do a 50-60% change, and dose prime for the entire tank.
Wait 24 hours.
Test again.
Repeat above.

If A is 0.5 and N is 0.5, you don't need to do a change, just dose prime and check again in 24 hours.

Obviously whenever NitrAte goes over 20ppm, change regardless.

This is what I replaced in my filter


However, I do have a biowheel that I haven't touched since the tank has been running.

Thank you for that information, I will go pick up some Prime in just about an hour or so, and I will take your advice. Thank you!

 

[drm315]

If you threw that large filter cartridge away and replaced in with a new one, then you through a great deal of your good bacteria away. There should be some on your substrate and decorations, though. I agree with previous poster - you're going to have to keep an eye on your water parameters and be ready to do small daily water changes until more bacteria grow.

 

[Kaneu]

If you threw that large filter cartridge away and replaced in with a new one, then you through a great deal of your good bacteria away. There should be some on your substrate and decorations, though. I agree with previous poster - you're going to have to keep an eye on your water parameters and be ready to do small daily water changes until more bacteria grow.

I third this.
But it can be done.
Seacham's Prime is a miracle worker

 

[Potluck]

Seachem prime, get replacement media at petsmart it will come in a small box with a mesh bag and have media stones, rinse the stones in water to remove dust, put them in bag and seal, stuff them down into the filter where the water flows back into the tank, I hate cartridge filters thats why suggest modifying one and that's What I just explained (every time you replace the cartridge you're replacing most of the beneficial bacteria), by putting the media stones into the filter after a while they will build up beneficial bacteria which will in turn allow you to change the cartridge without cycling the tank, or you can go spend 50 bucks and run an Aquaclear 50 together with the filter you have on it (don't remove old filter), but I have an Aquaclear 50 on one of my smaller tanks and that thing always loses siphon if the water drops to low, but I don't lose siphon on my
Aquaclear 110's in my bigger tank (the 110 would be way to big for your tank and fishes they would get blown around lol) anyways there's 3 options


modify your filter with media (You tube
videos of how to do this)


run a good HOB along with the cartridge filter you have


next time you replace cartridge cut the mesh off the bad cartridge and put it into the filter with the new one until new cartridge grows beneficial bacteria.

as mentioned you started a semi new cycle it won't be as bad as the first but you will needed to do 10 %-15% water changes every time you test the water and amomia and or nitrite are over .25 ppm , and yes treat new water you're putting back into the tank with seachem prime water conditioner.

Make sure you're testing the water with a liquid test kit not strips as strips are very very inaccurate... use an api master liquid test kit.


Do you have any of the old gravel if so and if it's still wet from when you removed it you can put 1/4 of it into a leg of a stocking and put it in the corner of the tank (don't do this if the gravel has been thrown away or is contaminated or if the gravel is dried out) you can skip this it will just help seed better.

 

[Scottishscales]

From what I read and see, you have replaced your substrate, decorations, filter pad, and most of your water.

Because of this I agree with everyone else that you've started your cycle again. Seachem Prime will keep your fish alive while the cycle re-establishes itself. You can also purchase seachem stability which is a bacteria kickstarter that will help seed your tank as well.

 

[Potluck]

Also you should never go over 50% water changes and never replace everything at once (gravel, filter cartridges, and 70% water) if your lfs told you it would be okay look for a different one as they are incorrect.

With your nitrates at 80 that's very high so your filter isn't able to Keep up with your bio load of your fish so I would recommend getting a second filter to run along with the biowheel you have on it... my opinion is Aquaclear, they are amazing.

 

[Potluck]

When you say "replacing filter inserts"... do you mean you threw the old ones away?

If so, you're now doing a pretty-much-new cycle, and fish-in at that.

This can be done, don't panic.

Get prime, if you haven't already.

You need to test your water every 24 hours, and be prepared to do daily water changes.

Test your water. If A(mmonia) and N(itrites) TOTAL above 1ppm, do whatever size water change is necessary to bring them down below 1ppm.
So if A is 1ppm, and N is 1ppm, do a 50-60% change, and dose prime for the entire tank.
Wait 24 hours.
Test again.
Repeat above.

If A is 0.5 and N is 0.5, you don't need to do a change, just dose prime and check again in 24 hours.

Obviously whenever NitrAte goes over 20ppm, change regardless.

1ppm is deadly, .25 is when you want to do a water change

 

[abw0004]

Don't want to repeat everything everyone else has said, but with your tank cycling again, you need to do a 50% water change, and NO MORE FISH. Any trace of ammonia is toxic to fish. It is like if you had to breathe car exhaust all day everyday. Your tank will take a while to cycle so be prepared to do those changes.

 

[TeenyFish]

Which is where the prime comes in...

As long as A plus N are both together under 1ppm, prime will protect.

If they do water changes every day to remove ALL the A and N, the tank will never cycle.

Is it harmful? Yes.
Is it ideal? No.

But, the damage is done and a fish-in cycle is now required.

 

[abw0004]

Which is where the prime comes in...

As long as A plus N are both together under 1ppm, prime will protect.

If they do water changes every day to remove ALL the A and N, the tank will never cycle.

Is it harmful? Yes.
Is it ideal? No.

But, the damage is done and a fish-in cycle is now required.

That is not correct. Prime only cancels out the ammonia for 12 hours, no more than 24 hours for sure. 50% water changes are a must for her, and the tank will cycle. I did that for both of my tanks. It will take longer, but she has no choice. And not all of the damage is done. She will continue harming her fish if she doesn't do something. If she wants to keep the fish in the tank, she has to do 50% water changes daily. If she doesn't they need to be returned, or put in a QT tank.

 

[TeenyFish]

Strange.

According to everything I know, and Seachems own tech support, prime will bind/detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrAte, for 24-48 hours.

Not too sure where your info is coming from?

 

[Potluck]

Which is where the prime comes in...

As long as A plus N are both together under 1ppm, prime will protect.

If they do water changes every day to remove ALL the A and N, the tank will never cycle.

Is it harmful? Yes.
Is it ideal? No.

But, the damage is done and a fish-in cycle is now required.

No you're incorrect, the damage isn't already done if the OP jumps on it immediately, if the OP let's it get to 1ppm then yes that's damaging where as .25 is way less damaging, prime only locks ammonia and nitrite for up to 24 hours, plus her ph is high so at 1 ppm with 7.6 ph is extremely deadly, if it was in the lower range like 6.0-6.5.. 1ppm wouldn't be as damaging as it is at 7.6 ph range.

Below 7.0 ph ammonia turns to ammonium which is less toxic, above 7.5 a reading if even .25 will stress the fish intensely.

 

[abw0004]

Strange.

According to everything I know, and Seachems own tech support, prime will bind/detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrAte, for 24-48 hours.

Not too sure where your info is coming from?

Trust me, I am a HUGE fan of Seachem. Really. I love all of their products, like I love Fluval for their filters. But that does not work for 48 hours. This is based off of experience and many threads talk about this. Still a must have for her for sure.

To put this into view of the OP on ammonia. .25 PPM of ammonia caused a fish of mine to go blind. Only .25 PPM. Yours is 1 PPM, so imagine what they are going through. The best medicine you can ever give fish is fresh, clean water. 50% water changes is a must for a fish-in cycle. Don't live with the guilt I do looking at my blind fish everyday. Love her to death, but I wonder how happy she is because of the ammonia.

 

[Potluck]

Strange.

According to everything I know, and Seachems own tech support, prime will bind/detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrAte, for 24-48 hours.

Not too sure where your info is coming from?

Well considering you are unfamiliar with high ph and ammonia there's a lot of things that come into play, at 7.6 ph at 1 ppm will kill the ops fish as nitrite is actually more deadly than ammonia, because the api test kit picks up ammonium which is less toxic than ammonia thus meaning the ammonia on the test is not 100% ammonia it's a combination of ammonia ammonium.

 

[CoreyLynn]

Thank you all /so much/ for all of your help and input! I did purchase some Prime the other day and have been dosing my tank with every 40-50% water change. My levels were even higher today, I'm hoping it's just pushing through the cycle.
We're keeping a close eye monitoring our fish and we're checking the levels, changing the water, and dosing with prime every day.
I'll keep posting updates, if anything changes for better or worse.

 

[CoreyLynn]

I actually have another question. My tank is cycling again because I removed too much water/bacteria. Won't doing daily 50% water changes be basically doing the same thing? Removing and adding fresh water without giving it a chance to cycle and stabilize?

 

[toolman]

Beneficial bacteria grows mainly in your filter, although will eventually grow on decorations and gravel, therefore a water change removes the excess ammonia and nitrites from the water column leaving 0.25ppm or less to be used by the bacteria. Clean water is the best thing you can do for your fish under any circumstances.