Quarantine or not to quarantine?

[omni024]

So I'm basing my question off of this article

Quarantine: More Harm than Good? | Advanced Aquarium Concepts

I currently have a 55 gallon as my main aquarium and a 10 gallon that used to be a planted tank but I tore down recently. I'm into cichlids and none of my cichlids should get over 6 inches.

I'm planning on using the 10 gallon as a dedicated quarantine tank to be used as needed and I have an extra filter on my 55 that will always be cycled for use in the 10. It will be bare bottom with some pvc or other pipes for decor.

So
1. Do you think the tank is big enough to house 1 full grown 6 inch cichlid for quarantine either as a new fish or just to separate due to bullying. (Most of the time the new fish will be smaller cause I typically don't spend 50$ on a new fish)

2. In regards to the article who's link I posted, is it worth it to even quarantine new fish.

3. As a random question. If only one fish in the main aquarium is having an issue such as signs of internal parasites should I just treat him or treat the whole tank.

Thank for reading my rant and questions and thanks for being such a great community [emoji1][emoji1][emoji1][emoji226][emoji225][emoji245][emoji227]?[emoji228][emoji229]

 

[Ketso]

Just my opinion, I've always heard and read "1 inch per gallon". So, a 6" fish should be ok in a 10 gal tank. Especially if only for a quarantine period. But, I've never kept cichlids either. Maybe their needs are different in regards to space?

 

[SherLar]

The 1" per gallon rule may work ok for tetras and guppies, but imagine a 10" oscar in a 10g tank. I would say that your 10g tank will work in a pinch, short term, but would strongly advise you upgrade to at least a 20g.

 

[nirbhao]

The only reason to not quarantine a new fish is impatience.

The 1" per gallon works if you consider it cubic inches.

 

[ImACoolguy]

I skimmed the article but I'm really not sure how to feel about the "pathogens are always present" comment. That's a highly controversial statement. Yes some things are in the water (like how a fish gets fungus from an injury) but some more serious diseases like columnaris I have my doubts.

The write did make some good points though....
1. Your tank must be cycled, otherwise you will cause more stress than just adding to the display.
2. Plenty of hiding places. I fill my quarantine with old decor and fake plants.
3. Acclimate. I know some favor "plop and drop" but I don't trust it.

I think his statements about adding fish from sick tanks is crazy. Sometimes it can take up to 90 days for a fish to show that it is sick. Yes, sometimes their immune systems are strong enough to overcome, but why take the risk to begin with?

Inch per gallon is a rule that needs to die. It can only apply in very specific situations making it mostly useless. Every species is different. It's been said a 10 inch Oscar produces 100x more waste than a 1 inch Oscar. Fish have different bioloads and to try and fit them all into a rule is preposterous. It's all speculation.

I do agree with the 20g quarantine though, it will provide more stability in water parameters and if you happen to get a 6 inch fish it will do better in a 20g than a 10g.

 

[omni024]

Awesome thanks for the answers I have yet to get an answer on my third question soooo yeah just pointing that out

thanks! you guys are the best!

 

[flchamp89]

If its alive I drip acclimate. If its sensitive longer drip (shrimp , micro fish ect)

 

[ImACoolguy]

Sorry I didn't answer your third question. If you have a quarantine setup you can move it and treat alone or treat the main tank. Typically I soak frozen food like bloodworms for 30 minutes in PraziPro if I suspect parasites. Its harmless if ingested by fish that don't actually have a parasite.

If the fish is refusing all food.... Then I would quarantine and treat the tank not the food.

 

[omni024]

Kk deal thanks for getting back to me