Re-Cycle advice

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Blub

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jan 11, 2011
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Ok - had to do parasite and fungus treatments on tank after adding fish initially (new tank, so we put them all in straight from the pet store, mistake) -- we've been fighting to get things cycled since (we'd never had to treat for any illness before in our large tank - we chose poorly I guess - the parasite treatment has an anti-Bac in it).

We were using some assorted chemicals to help until a bit over a week ago when my loach died. I pulled all the fish to the hospital tank and did a 90some% water change (the vacuum wouldn't go anymore). Then checked all the chemicals and decided mostly no use any. When I added the water back in I just left the charcoal filter to pull chlorine and treated for pH levels (hadn't noticed the starter we were using also had bacteria and killed ammonia til then - so all my pwcs were stalling the cycle - grr.)

I left the fish in the little tank and ignored the bigger one until the ammonia, etc started climbing in the small one. We then tested both, doing pwcs until the hospital tank's levels were worse than the other (2.5 gal hospital tank + 6 fish = overstocked, but I knew it would happen).

Now they're all back in the regular tank, but of course we're not done cycling. We're right into the n spike. Here is a pic of the levels post 25%ish H2O change. The nitrites were 0 last night and around 5ppm this am after my little 10%ish water change - I was short on time so I did the little change before coming back to test. The nitrates were around 10ppm before the 25% change. I didn't retest ammonia - we've been using one of those live NH3 tests in the tank just to keep track of rising or lowering levels - to save time for doing the pwcs... Oh, pH is about 7.4 - which is higher than last test when it was around 7 and two days before that is was 6.8 ...

The chain loach looks stressed, she's like tester strip - levels go too high and she turns pink. The platy all look fine except for one - she's had fin issues from the beginning though - I did a salt bath with a drop of tea tree oil for her earlier as well. First time I've ever done that; but her side fin was suddenly fuzzy and she could barely swim - they've been jagged since after the parasite and fungus treatments. I think she's just more susceptible than the others. The salt bath got rid of the fuzz for now - she actually looks better.

Should I do another pwc? Should I do one later today? How often should I do them? How much would you pull each time? Does treating for pH damage the cycle? (Is there some reason it is rising??)
 

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Don't worry about the pH right now... the important thing is getting the Ammonia and Nitrite under control. Do 50% PWCs until you get the levels of each below 0.25ppm. Any readable nitrite and ammonia is toxic and will stress fish to an extent.

PWCs will not slow the cycle. It won't hurt to perform them as often as necessary during the cycle to keep your ammonia and nitrites down. I routinely change 50% or more of the water on my tanks, as for many of the folks here.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...ady-have-fish-what-now-116287.html#post983258


This post from HN1 may provide some insight on what to do when cycling with fish. He currently keeps 70+ active fish tanks, and knows his stuff...
 
Don't worry about the pH right now... the important thing is getting the Ammonia and Nitrite under control. Do 50% PWCs until you get the levels of each below 0.25ppm. Any readable nitrite and ammonia is toxic and will stress fish to an extent.

PWCs will not slow the cycle. It won't hurt to perform them as often as necessary during the cycle to keep your ammonia and nitrites down. I routinely change 50% or more of the water on my tanks, as for many of the folks here.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...ady-have-fish-what-now-116287.html#post983258


This post from HN1 may provide some insight on what to do when cycling with fish. He currently keeps 70+ active fish tanks, and knows his stuff...

^ Great advice here.
 
Thanks for the advice. :)

I've done three 25 to 50% pwc today, the NO2 is still at .5, the ammonia seems to be dropping steadily though. So, some progress.

We are now out of the de-chlorinator, so I didn't want to do another change until I can get to the store this evening. I presume that adding chlorine to an already stressed tank would be worse for the fish. Please tell me if I'm wrong!

I thought the pH could have an effect on the levels of ammonia being more or less tolerable... But I'm happy to have one less thing to think about.
 
looks to me like nitrite was 1 or higher before, so some progress there as well. There is a relationship between toxicity of ammonia and pH, but your pH is not in a range I would worry about adjusting at this point. Playing with the pH will have more detrimental effect than just letting it be for now. Once the tank cycles, then I would say go back and explore your pH... but if settles anywhere between about 6.5-8.0, it will be suitable for most tropical fish.

You are right about needing dechlor to do a water change. You want to have that before you do another 1.
 
Yup, the nitrites were around 1.0ppm when I sent that and they were around 5.0ppm before the first bigger change - so that is better ;) Nitrates are holding around 5.0ppm.

I just did a liquid ammonia test and it is down around 1ppm. That is a huge improvement (sad I know).
 
We are finally down to .25ppm nitrates and .5(ish) ppm amonia. :) I'll keep testing, and changing as needed - but thanks for the advice so I know we're on the right track. :)

Would leaving the lights on overnight help keep the levels from spiking as high? (We have live plants.)
 
Don't leave the lights on overnight. Not good for the plants or for algae and you would see minimal difference in ammonia/nitrites.
 
No, have your lights on for at least 8-10 hours per day. Turning it on will create algaes (another problem) and it will not help your cycle (I might be wrong here). But that is just my opinion.
 
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