red claw in filter?

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vikki.kixx

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Feb 27, 2011
Messages
25
Location
edinburg,texas
so we hadn't seen our red claw crab the last few days, we were thinking he was hiding out in the castle but after further investigation he wasn't in there.

i made my boyfriend check inside the filter and sure enough he's in there, but he kinda moved to fast for us and went inside it it. and now we have no idea how to get him out. any ideas?
 
what kind of filter do you have? your best bet is to un-plug it and empty any water then take it apart and take him out the make precautionary mesures so he cannot get back in to the filter
 
got him out. he was hanging on to the filter and my boyfriend just lifted it up and pushed him off into the tank with the net. we've moved the taller plants away from the filter pipe so he shouldnt get up there anymore


red claw crab. by just victoria, on Flickr
5519237976
 
Hmm I had crabs in my filter once a long time ago and we just unplugged and tipped the filter and dumped them back into the tank. Do they have access to land? Usually they end up in the filter when they are trying to get air. These are not fully aquatic crabs. They should have brackish water and access to land or they will not live long.
 
we are going to petsmart today to buy another tank and have it set up specifically for them. (we have 2 of them). they told us they would be fine in the tank, but i've been reading up on them and i've told my boyfriend i wanted a different set up for them. so thats where we are off to today.

any pointers on what i should get for them?
 
if you have a special tank for them 10-20gal like this
5017_2.JPG


but have the rocks out of the water about 2/3 up the tank. stack them how ever you want them, make shure ther is some decent out of water rocks. if it still seems a bit empty you could add a male beta they dont mind more enclosed space but as long as it can swim around and not have to turn in 2 inches or it will hit a wall they like it. newts are also ok to keep with crabs in the same set up but you should feed them earth worms when you get them run 2 fingers kinda pinching them down to empty out any harmfull worm "poo" out be for you feed but a filter is still necesary just not as powerful most "sponge and air" filters or a diy "fluid bed filter" would work fine if you want plants duck weed/water wysteria and java moss are prity much your only options
 
You need marine salt mix NOT aquarium salt. The kind of salt used for saltwater tanks such as Instant Ocean or the generic variety. You will also need a hydrometer so you can acheive an ideal SG of 1.008. Start with 1 tsp salt per gallon of dechlorinated water and test with hydrometer daily, at the same time every day. Never add salt directly to the tank. When you need to add more salt, remove a bit of the tank water and desolve the salt into the water, then return to the tank. Remember salt does not evaporate so you do not want to add salt when you top off due to evaporation, only when you do your water changes. You CANNOT add any freshwater fish because you are adding ocean salt. You can add fish that acclimate well to brackish such as mollies. Crabs are very sensitive to water quality so you are going to want to cycle the tank completely before adding them. Chances are they cannot make it through a cycle. A sand substrate works best...mine is actually half rocks half sand. Careful with sand..you don't want it too deep or toxic air pockets can form and kill your crabs..make sure when you do your weekly tank upkeep that you stir the sand and you will be fine. They need plenty of land. You can have a sandy beach coming up out of the water, rocks or wood coming out of the water, use a floating island, there are also some really cool underwater islands out there to maximize their dry land space. These crabs need air just as much as they need water so you don't want to underestimate the land space they need. Alot of ppl set up their tanks with only a little water, they don't need much, but I always keep atleast 4 gals in mine. If you can provide a place to hide for moulting both in the water and on land so they can take their pick because they like doing it both ways. A lot of live plants won't thrive with the salt in the water but java fern is always a safe bet.
 
thanks for all the advice! we bought a 10 gallon tank and sand substrate. we have plenty of rocks ready to go and a nice decoration he can climb and hide in. ill post a picture as soon as we have it set up.right now we are building the stand it will sit on. and while working on all that we did a full water change in our 37gallon because of some problems with ammonia :(
 
you wer probably on your ammonia spike for establishing your bio filter but if it wasnt that and your tank is established i would have just added a cap full of prime and it would have gotten rid of the problem in a day or so it better then removing all of your water that should be an absolute last resort and only done if an infection breaks out in the tank and add the meds as you fill it up
 
well we were doing okay on our water and then after adding a few new fish..the next day we lost two swordtails, so i took a water sample to petsmart and they said ammonia was present at about .5 so i bought some prime and waited a few days..took another sample and it was still registering so we did a pwc added some prime and nutrafin cycle..waited a few more days..took another sample and it was still not good. so we just decided to do a full water change because we had lost a baby molly and a guppy.

i didnt want to lose another fish because of that, so hopefully this does the trick.
 
I had fiddlers for 3 years in a 5 gal. Really simple set up. Topsoil beach and brackish pool about 2 inches deep.
 
.5ppm ammonia is almost nothing my tanks regualry get to about 2.0ppm if i get lazy and dont change the water.. also prime masks ammonia and turns it into a safer chemical that still shows up as ammonia in a test.. in stead of takeing your samples to petsmart to get it tested i highly recomend to buying a water test kit so you can do it once a week at home the one i got was from API "freshwater master test kit" its way more accurate then the strips. it had a low and high range Ph test, ammonia test, nitrate and nitrite test and only cost about 30$ and if you can follow basic step by step instuctions you can do it.. i would also recomend doing a 15% water change twice a month because good bacteria grow in the tank and help filter out ammonia and nitrate its called the bio filter and people at petsmart ususaly dont even know about it..if you're worried about chlorine and chloromine just use a low dose of prime when you add your water and it will be fine
 
.5ppm ammonia is almost nothing my tanks regualry get to about 2.0ppm if i get lazy and dont change the water.. also prime masks ammonia and turns it into a safer chemical that still shows up as ammonia in a test.. in stead of takeing your samples to petsmart to get it tested i highly recomend to buying a water test kit so you can do it once a week at home the one i got was from API "freshwater master test kit" its way more accurate then the strips. it had a low and high range Ph test, ammonia test, nitrate and nitrite test and only cost about 30$ and if you can follow basic step by step instuctions you can do it.. i would also recomend doing a 15% water change twice a month because good bacteria grow in the tank and help filter out ammonia and nitrate its called the bio filter and people at petsmart ususaly dont even know about it..if you're worried about chlorine and chloromine just use a low dose of prime when you add your water and it will be fine

WHOAAA WHAT. Stop right there. .5 ppm ammonia is not nothing. That's a CRUD ton of ammonia. Please don't spread poor advice. You should ALWAYS be at 0 ammonia and at worst .25 ammonia. 2 is NOT safe, .5 is NOT safe. I hope your water is chock full of chloramines....

BUT judging from what you say, the ammonia in your tank is fish produced. I implore you to tell us what's in the tank and how long you've set it up. I can go2-3 months without water changes and still be at 0. You're definitely doing something wrong.

If it seems like I'm overreacting, I apologize. But please do not spread misinformation.

Additionally, prime is NOT going to stave off ammonia poisoning forever. It reacts and degrades very quickly when in water, and within a few hours is useless.

edited because I realized I overreacted after rereading what I wrote.
 
i could understand 0.5% ammonia is crazy high but 0.5parts per million(ppm) is like 0.00005% ammonia my test kit goes up to 8.0ppm and i never loose fish even when it has been at around 3.0 for more then 2 weeks when i first set up a tank and am establishing a new bio filter even with average water changes 15% once a week sure 0.0ppm is ideal but it is foolish if you dont think your ammonia will spike once and a while if you dont have a proper bio filter set up and a well established tank like you obviously do. plants also aid greatly in keeping the ammonia down new tanks always have major fluxuations in all paramiters when all the water is changed or a new tank is set up even if you do very large water changes too often. it is the people who dont know how to keep fish properly who think you need perfect paramiters all the time it has to go up befor it comes down but you can control it if it gets to high. water changes get less frequent the longer you have a tank set up thats why testing the water once a week is the best way to figure out when you need to change as you bio filter builds over months
 
also i know my town has higher then average chloromine thanks for hoping all my fish die..... that is also another reason i use prime it is very good at getting rid of both chlorine and chloromine
 
My tanks never have any ammonia unless for some reason I have to add too many fish at once (because I've ordered them online or they must be added all together). In those cases I have seen a small spike for a few days but never more than .25. Maybe I'm crazy but I do weekly partial water changes. Just my two cents :)
 
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