Softwood, Why Not?

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Lt.

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Is it ok to usr softwood drift wood in my tank? I'd use hardwood, but there's none in my area. All I have is spruce and birch at the nearby river.
 
shouldnt be an issue as long as you can get it to sink, just look into the spacific timber because some timbers such as silver birch are poisionus
 
I'd stay away from any evergreens: fir, pine, spruce, cedar, etc. The resin has antibacterial properties and terpenes isolated from the resin are used in a variety of applications, including pesticides. Distilled resin is the source of turpentine. The potential to leach potentially dangerous chemicals into water is too great, IMO. This is a pretty common guideline in the hobby, though I've never seen any research backing it up.

WYite
 
It is wood thats thoroughly dead though, real, driftwood. It isn't silver birch, I know that much, but other than that I dunno.
 
Keep in mind that soft wood will decompose much faster than hard. This could be an issue and potentially increase your bio-load.
 
The major issues have already been pointed out; release of potentially harmful chemicals and much faster decomposition rate. Tannins are another factor in many of your softwoods (especially the evergreens), as some people don't like the darkwater effect. That said however, if the wood is really, truly dead (i.e. dead and grayed out) but not rotting and you can find some that has actually spent time in the water, it can be used without any of these effects. I know several people who have and I myself used some pine and even cedar in tanks without incident. However, keep in mind that there is always the risk that it may not be truly dried out and therefore it may leech something you don't want. Thus the generally accepted guideline of "it should never be used."
 
There gray, white, old dead&dry on a cold cold gravel bar

I would avoid anything white, as that is a sign of decomposition occuring in the wood. The gray (provided there is no rot), should be ok. You might want to boil it or put it in a bucket of water first just to see if it releases anything visible. But again, keep in mind that most chemicals won't be seen, so you're still taking a risk that could turn bad for you and your fish.
 
Wy Renegade said:
The major issues have already been pointed out; release of potentially harmful chemicals and much faster decomposition rate. Tannins are another factor in many of your softwoods (especially the evergreens), as some people don't like the darkwater effect. That said however, if the wood is really, truly dead (i.e. dead and grayed out) but not rotting and you can find some that has actually spent time in the water, it can be used without any of these effects. I know several people who have and I myself used some pine and even cedar in tanks without incident. However, keep in mind that there is always the risk that it may not be truly dried out and therefore it may leech something you don't want. Thus the generally accepted guideline of "it should never be used."

I agree. The one type of wood that shouldn't be used is red cedar. Red cedar has a natural antifungal in the wood so it does not rot as quickly but also contains a natural pesticide and doesn't sink as quickly because it doesn't absorb the water like other types. That is why it is common in porches, lawn furniture, etc. That is the difference between cedar and red cedar.
 
Gray,white,dead and dry on a sun bleached sand bar scenario would be better. The heat would help Leach tannins and resins.

I wouldn't chance it unless you could positively i.d. the type in question.
I gather native dw all the time, use it and sell it but i know what woods I'm collecting.
 
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just checking but you guys know that just cause a wood is hard dosent nessiseraly mean its a hardwood right for example balsa wood is a hardwood despite being extremly soft.
also mopani has been used for ages as rail road sleepers and for garden edging because of its natural termite resistance.
i think all timbers would be fine bar a few (maby purple heart, yew etc) would be fine as long as they are treated properly, as far as how to treat em...that i dont know
 
just checking but you guys know that just cause a wood is hard dosent nessiseraly mean its a hardwood right for example balsa wood is a hardwood despite being extremly soft. also mopani has been used for ages as rail road sleepers and for garden edging because of its natural termite resistance. i think all timbers would be fine bar a few (maby purple heart, yew etc) would be fine as long as they are treated properly, as far as how to treat em...that i dont know
Trees are classified as hardwood and softwood by the shape of their leaves not the density of the wood. When we speak of hard vs soft woods in the aquarium we are talking about density, hence the reason I put a space between the woods.
 
I'd stay away from any evergreens: fir, pine, spruce, cedar, etc. The resin has antibacterial properties and terpenes isolated from the resin are used in a variety of applications, including pesticides. Distilled resin is the source of turpentine. The potential to leach potentially dangerous chemicals into water is too great, IMO. This is a pretty common guideline in the hobby, though I've never seen any research backing it up.

WYite

just checking but you guys know that just cause a wood is hard dosent nessiseraly mean its a hardwood right for example balsa wood is a hardwood despite being extremly soft.
also mopani has been used for ages as rail road sleepers and for garden edging because of its natural termite resistance.
i think all timbers would be fine bar a few (maby purple heart, yew etc) would be fine as long as they are treated properly, as far as how to treat em...that i dont know

Yup. Hardwoods are deciduous trees, "softwoods" are conifers, though I don't usually heard 'em referred to in that manner. :)

WYite
 
Trees are classified as hardwood and softwood by the shape of their leaves not the density of the wood. When we speak of hard vs soft woods in the aquarium we are talking about density, hence the reason I put a space between the woods.

Hardwood and softwood are actually determined based on the density or pores in the woody material of the plant, not truly by the shape of the leaves. It just happens that angiosperms (flowering broadleaf plants, but not necessarily decidious, as tropical evergreens also fall into this category) have less pore spaces than the gymnosperms (cone-bearing plants). The cedar family (a conifer with berries rather than cones). is classified as a gymnosperm as well. So in a sense your statement is correct, but technically incorrect LOL. You are quite correct however in that hardwoods can be very soft wood, like balsa wood for example.

Yup. Hardwoods are deciduous trees, "softwoods" are conifers, though I don't usually heard 'em referred to in that manner. :)

WYite

See above ;)

Just for what its worth given the turn the conversation has taken.
 
Leave it to Wy Renegade to give us all the smack down and set it straight. ;) Thanks for that good info.
 
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