Sup everyone, so I’m making big moves here and gettin started in making a 40g breeder C02 setup. I got the tank, I got the substrate. Just thinking about everything I need and want some experienced people to give me tips. Thanks homies
Starting a 40g C02 tank HELP
- Thread starter Mr.Flux
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Great to hear some interesting tank making going on!
This might be useful!
Will be watching because I have been considering CO2 as well for a tank (for a long while and just hasn't been the right time yet for me). So please give details and what the considerations are!
My summation of the basic of what to get first, would be not to skimp on quality, as so many people buy a cheaper unit and end up buying a better one pretty soon - so somewhat wasted money at the start.
And a normal sized tank for the CO2 and to invest in a back up tank so it doesn't mess up your routine when you run out.
https://www.aquariumadvice.com/beginners-guide-to-co2-injection-in-the-planted-tank/
This might be useful!
Will be watching because I have been considering CO2 as well for a tank (for a long while and just hasn't been the right time yet for me). So please give details and what the considerations are!
My summation of the basic of what to get first, would be not to skimp on quality, as so many people buy a cheaper unit and end up buying a better one pretty soon - so somewhat wasted money at the start.
And a normal sized tank for the CO2 and to invest in a back up tank so it doesn't mess up your routine when you run out.
https://www.aquariumadvice.com/beginners-guide-to-co2-injection-in-the-planted-tank/
ZxC
Aquarium Advice Addict
If using CO2, ensure CO2 is dropping the pH of the tank water a full 1.0 – 1.2. To do this, measure the pH of tank water with no CO2 dissolved in it, and then measure again 2-3 hours after CO2 has been running. Ensure the drop in pH is a full 1.0-1.2. If the drop is not there yet, slowly up CO2 over a few weeks until at least a 1.0 drop is achieved, and watch fish / livestock carefully. Adjust CO2 down if you notice fish gasping at the surface and consider running an airstone at night when pushing a 1.2 or greater drop. For example, a tank water pH of 7.5 with no CO2 dissolved in it, should reach a pH of 6.5 – 6.3 for CO2 to really shine, and for maximum plant health.
Consistency in CO2 levels is key to plant health. Keep CO2 levels as stable as possible once a desirable level has been reached.
Consistency in CO2 levels is key to plant health. Keep CO2 levels as stable as possible once a desirable level has been reached.
Well I ended up getting 4 20lb bags of eco complete, even though there are lots of mixed feeling on it I’m gonna give it a go because there are lots of good things said about it aswell. I’m gonna get an Auqateck C02 regulator, and a basic diffuser, probably the fluval one. I got an older model fluval 305 wet dry filter so I’ll be there running that. What are your guys thoughts
What remineralizer are you going to use with the RO? Or are the ferts going to supply basic calcium and magnesium?
ZxC
Aquarium Advice Addict
Can you return the Eco-Complete by chance?
Any access to a different filter that wont off-gas a lot of CO2?
Are you planning on remineralizing the RO water? If so... with what?
What lighting do you have?
Any access to a different filter that wont off-gas a lot of CO2?
Are you planning on remineralizing the RO water? If so... with what?
What lighting do you have?
That’s what I wanna know, what remineralizer should I use and if you don’t think the eco complete will work than what would you reccomend. What I’m doing is slowly buying everything I need for this setup and making sure I get the right stuff that’s good quality cause I don’t like being cheap with this stuff. So you guys tell me
ZxC
Aquarium Advice Addict
Eco-Complete is inert, very low CEC (ability to store and exchange nutrients), it raises kH when new (plants prefer low kH), it has irregular granule size, it's hard to plant delicate plants into, it traps immense amount of organics (too much organic decomposition will promote algae), it's very hard to clean, it offers a perfect home for nasty black beard algae, and it's way too expensive, I would rather you spend money on quality lighting or CO2 instead of all that money on an inert substrate.
But, if you want to keep it no problem, it will still grow plants just as well as any other inert substrate we use in planted tanks.
If you want to save some money, you can use pool filter sand, K & E Industrial sand, or plain, non-buffering aquarium gravel / sand in your preferred colour. You can also find inert quartz sand from many hardware stores. Play sand can work, but it's messy and the grain size is a little too small to be ideal in our tanks.
Go onto amazon, and buy CaSO4 for Calcium (gH) and KHCO3 (for kH):
https://www.amazon.ca/Baker-and-Cro...f=sr_1_4?keywords=CaSO4&qid=1581129626&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.ca/Home-Brew-Ohi...s=potassium+bicarbonate&qid=1581129744&sr=8-1
Then go to a drug store and buy plain, no additives, non-scented magnesium sulphate (Epsum Salt) MgSO4. I personally use Life brand from Shoppers Drug Mart. This is for Magnesium (gH)
For every 1 gallon of 100% RO water, dose:
488 mg CaSO4 = 30ppm Ca
384 mg MgSO4 = 10ppm Mg
This = roughly 6-7 degrees of gH
Also dose:
135 mg KHCO3 = 1.0 degrees of kH
This = a pH of roughly 7.1 - 7.2
That is the simplest, cheapest way to remineralize RO water. Buy a 50 gram scale with accuracy to 0.001 grams off amazon for $10-$20. 500 grams of each product will last you years.
Store bought gH boosters are loaded with extra potassium and iron that you don't really want.
I didn't know we could buy Finnex lights in Canada?
I would personally stay away from Finnex.... Poor warranty, and mediocre light output.
Fluval 3.0 is probably a better option, or go with T5-HO. 2-3 bulbs over a 40 will be medium light.
The problem with a single LED strip light is front - back coverage is not good, even on a tank 12" deep, the coverage is just not there... Which is where bulbs come out ahead. You can use 2 lesser powered LED strip lights to avoid dark areas... but that's where added cost's start to rise.
Okay well there’s some good info there thanks a lot, I’ll be looking back on this when I need it forsure, what I’m now thinking is I’ll just sell my eco complete to my local pet store and I’ll buy Amazonia aqua soil, seems like it’s the way to go. Yes it’s expensive I know, but guess what, that’s ok
ZxC
Aquarium Advice Addict
If you have access to RO water, Aquasoil is a great option.
Do not add any kH (KHCO3) to the water, your aquasoil will buffer the pH for you and you won't exhaust it's buffering ability. pH will stable out at 6.4 - 6.4 and kH will remain 0 which is good, so no need to add any kH.
gH is still needed at the 30ppm Ca and 10ppm Mg levels.
Ok so I’ll be mixing RO and my tap water, I did a test yesterday and everything was safe if I mix it 50/50. If I don’t mix it then I have high gH, high PH and high alkalinity. I just used text strips that I had so I couldn’t see the numbers. I’ll have to go get a better test kit
ZxC
Aquarium Advice Addict
fresh tapwater will skew the pH reading.
let degass for 24 hours in a clean glass before testing.
ZxC
Aquarium Advice Addict
Don't mix ADA and other substrates... never end well.
ZxC
Aquarium Advice Addict
Dose the water column, substrate fertilizing is not necessary.
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