Three fancy goldfish, advise wanted

[FancyGoldies]

Hi all

I'm new to this site. Owner of three goldfish: red oranda, black moor, and red&black calico rhyukin. All in a 55gal tank with an Eheim filter big enough to clean 120gallons. I've had them almost two years. Yeah they are all about 8 inches and fully grown males.

They are always coming down with something or another. As of right now they like to sit on the substrate and not swim until food is given. I'll admit they have been through a lot with me learning the ropes the hard way. I've dosed them with malachite green, methane blue dips, rid ich, treated for red algae, Melafix, antibiotics, clout, jungle fungus clear and Aqua salt over those two years. I've even given my oranda a small wen cut so he could see again, only to have it grow back within a month.

They swim in super clear 55gal tank, changed weekly, using prime water conditioner and live off aqueon slow sinking pellets with a air stone 24/7 and 80F water (I'm in Phoenix its their life to be warm). They also have an huge almond leaf and Aqua salt always in the tank to help keep them healthy.

So I'm racking my brain trying to figure out what's up with them. I want swimmer fish I can watch.

Calico recently got over his swim bladder issues swimming vertically, but oranda is hanging around the floor upside down sometimes. The books I've read don't even explain those circus tricks. The fish have red streaks on their fins (who knows with the black moor he's black after all). They sit on the bottom. Oranda started to do this when he couldn't see anymore because of his huge wen. The calico is not on the floor but floats in the corner. There are no outward issues, no fungus or such. There seemed to be ulcers, red and white fluff which went away with the fungus clear and salt treatment. So I though must be internal parasites? I treated with clout for flukes. Not much changed even with the four doses and water changes as required. I treated with fungus clear for bacteria parasites. Nope. Three treatments and no change. I'm now putting in rid-ich because that will help for costia. Salt should have ruled out costia but it can't hurt to help if the salt isn't enough. Their water is warm to help with healing. I'm at a loss on what's wrong. They act pretty normal but sitting at bottom and the red streaks are a bad sign.

I did however treat them for ich for a month when they were going up. Finally said my goodbyes to them because the spots wouldn't go and stopped the medicines to see if they would die. Turned out they were boys and just got their spots!
So am I doing this again? Should I let them be and see what happens?

I check the water chemistry every few weeks, and the ammonia is always at 0, nitrates at 0 and nitrate low, and the high range ph is in the 7.8 range.

Any ideas or advice?



Sent from my iPad using Aquarium Advice

 

[ImACoolguy]

Hi all
80F water (I'm in Phoenix its their life They also have an huge almond leaf and Aqua salt always in the tank to help keep them healthy.

Sent from my iPad using Aquarium Advice

Hello!

I'm going to go on a limb here and say those 2 things above are the reason your fish keep getting sick. The tank may be cycled and clean water but...

1. 80 degrees is quite hot for Goldie's and I imagine it's stressing them seeing as it's that warm. They are coldwater fish after all...

2. AQ Salt. On the box the product says it increases slime coat. It's not lying and is actually a very good preventive during disease treatments and bacterial infections because it heightens the immune system. What the box doesn't tell you is how it does that. Salt is a stress inducer and that's how it increases slime coat. Prolong use has shown to actually weaken the immune system. Now if I'm reading that correctly you have been adding salt to the tank for a very long time? I think this is a PRIME example of how long term salt dosing can have a negative effect.

Like I said I'm going on a limb here.


Caleb

 

[brennae]

I think they may keep getting sick because of the temp. If it's not feasible to keep them at a lower temp and I mean like 10 degrees lower then I would rehome them and get something more appropriate to 80 degree temperatures.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Autumnsky]

That is a huge amount of fish treatments.

Red streaks can be blood veins tiny or ammonia or Nitrite poisoning larger more pronounced.

What type of testing are you using? I will bet it is test strips?!

If so I would invest in a Master test kit for fish like from API. Best price online.

Also I would do a series of pwc. One every day for maybe 5 -7 days, say 25%. No added salt. Just use the Prime in an amount adequate for Chloramines, if they are in your city water.

As a side note, if you can look up ammonia and also nitrite poisoning and see which or even if that is what you have.

What are you feeding them? Are you feeding a sinking or floating pellet or flake?

Have you ever fed them cooked peas? Help aid in digestion.

Do you ever fast them?

Back to the test kit...Test all the things and follow the directions ever so specifically, report back and use the water before the water change - take a couple cups to test and do the pwc first and then focus on the testing. Making sure to thoroughly rinse the tubes.

Report back with the findings.

If you have to wait for the test kit maybe you can get the water tested wth a test kit - not strips from the lfs. Try to go when they aren't super busy, if they usually use the strips. So we can see what might be off.

 

[FancyGoldies]

Thank you all for your advice. 78-80F is what they live in, and although that may seem high to you, they have been living in water at that temperature for two years and swimming just fine. I will definitely take out the salt with water changes and see if that helps. I do test with API master kit and test tubes. Fall is approaching and the temperature will come down in their water and it may too help them be active again. I have fasted before and offered peas only as a way to counter the swim bladder circus performances. Thanks again for your thoughts on my Goldies.




Sent from my iPad using Aquarium Advice

 

[ImACoolguy]

I really believe the salt played a major role over time in aiding the diseases they caught.

There is chillers made for ponds. Take a look at those to maybe use during the summer months.


Caleb

 

[brennae]

Thank you all for your advice. 78-80F is what they live in, and although that may seem high to you, they have been living in water at that temperature for two years and swimming just fine. I will definitely take out the salt with water changes and see if that helps. I do test with API master kit and test tubes. Fall is approaching and the temperature will come down in their water and it may too help them be active again. I have fasted before and offered peas only as a way to counter the swim bladder circus performances. Thanks again for your thoughts on my Goldies.




Sent from my iPad using Aquarium Advice

Goldies can live at higher temps but it speeds up their metabolism and causes other issues. Good to hear that it's not year round and yes there are chillers available.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Aquarium Advice mobile app

 

[Jmunroe]

High temps, salt, lack of water changes. That's the problem. Probably cleaning the filter to much too and causing cycling issues. 3 8 inch messy fish like gold fish in 55 gallons would need large water change of 50-75% every couple days to keep things healthy. Add high temps to bad water and that's a great breeding ground for nasties. Add fish that don't do well in high temps long term(as your seeing) and you can't help but have sick fish. Add all those meds you've been subjecting them to, which are hard on the fish and I'm surprised they are still alive. Sorry if I seem blunt, not trying to be harsh just didn't want to waste mine and your time beating around the bush.