Using hydrogen peroxide on algae Q

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Peroxide on bba black bear algae aka bush algae will kill it. Same with excel.

Hair/thread algae does not die off the same way in my experience. The only solution I have had with hair algae is to raise.my.lights or add a lot of floaters.

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Peroxide on bba black bear algae aka bush algae will kill it. Same with excel.

Hair/thread algae does not die off the same way in my experience. The only solution I have had with hair algae is to raise.my.lights or add a lot of floaters.

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I was saying 'hair algae' just as a generic term as I don't quite know what it is. Some is black so I suppose BBA? Some looks more green so maybe GHA?

Yes, raising lights could be one fix to help stop more growing but that won't get rid of what's there now will it?

My lights are t5HO lights so high out put, but the tank is 24" high so I was told that would offset them being high out put. Currently my star grass is not doing well - no doubt also the ferts issue but I also due to the PAR being not as high as it should be. I am guessing around 35-40 at the gravel level, so if I raise the lights that will be even lower......
 
To be clear: When you say "Spot treating" you mean you are filling some sort of syringe with the hydrogen peroxide and then slowly distributing it directly onto the affected areas, right? I just want to make sure you're not just pouring it into the tank.
Also, what's the ratio of hydrogen peroxide to tank volume you're using? I typically use 2-3 ml/gallon, but if you have inverts, then you may need to stick closer to 1-2 ml/gallon.
 
Take a picture of it. If its tuffs of shorter black hairy look that's bba. Hair algae is like very fine 2-5inches of green hair. It gets super tangled in mosses and plants and will connect you plants together.

Hair algae you can grab and pull out. Bba you can't. Its very hard to physically remove.

Bba won't die even if you blackout. The key to removing bba is excel or peroxide spraying right on it.

Hair algae is to raise the light and lower photoperiod.

Thread algae is like hair algae but it grows very long. Up to 12 inches maybe more. Similar to hair algae you can pull it out but it tangles in plants.

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With no ferts and co2 that's too much par IMO. Try and go up another 4 inches on Your light

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To be clear: When you say "Spot treating" you mean you are filling some sort of syringe with the hydrogen peroxide and then slowly distributing it directly onto the affected areas, right? I just want to make sure you're not just pouring it into the tank.
Also, what's the ratio of hydrogen peroxide to tank volume you're using? I typically use 2-3 ml/gallon, but if you have inverts, then you may need to stick closer to 1-2 ml/gallon.

Yes exactly. I used a syringe. Didn't use the full 3ml per gallon but I did cover the worst parts and put it right on the algae with the filters off.

Take a picture of it. If its tuffs of shorter black hairy look that's bba. Hair algae is like very fine 2-5inches of green hair. It gets super tangled in mosses and plants and will connect you plants together.

Hair algae you can grab and pull out. Bba you can't. Its very hard to physically remove.

Bba won't die even if you blackout. The key to removing bba is excel or peroxide spraying right on it.

Hair algae is to raise the light and lower photoperiod.

Thread algae is like hair algae but it grows very long. Up to 12 inches maybe more. Similar to hair algae you can pull it out but it tangles in plants.

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Thanks - so then I would say it's BBA and GHA. And I have used both excel and hydrogen peroxide three times! It's still there.....

With no ferts and co2 that's too much par IMO. Try and go up another 4 inches on Your light

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I am using ferts and co2. Liquid ferts currently, and excel. I have been told the liquid ferts are not great and only dosing micros. Dry ferts arriving Friday. Re co2 I am dosing 6ml excel daily. I could bump that up but I have Vals and Egeria....
 
Im sorry.. I messed up the ratios.. I use 1ml/2-3 gallons of aquarium water. Please dont do the 3ml/gallon that posted above. That would be 60 ml in a 20 gallon, which is WAY too much. In my 20 long I typically use about 18 ml when all is said in done. Each syringe holds 6ml and I fill/treat three times.

Sorry for the mistake.
 
Im sorry.. I messed up the ratios.. I use 1ml/2-3 gallons of aquarium water. Please dont do the 3ml/gallon that posted above. That would be 60 ml in a 20 gallon, which is WAY too much. In my 20 long I typically use about 18 ml when all is said in done. Each syringe holds 6ml and I fill/treat three times.

Sorry for the mistake.

No problem! I've actually seen many others say 3ml/gallon. I used much less though. Both times I got the job done with 20-30ml max and my tank is 60g.
 
Where did you buy your SAE's? I see liveaquaria has them but the shipping is too much for me. I see they get up to 6" and I only have a 60g so not sure I would want more than 1 or 2.

They do indeed get quite large (true SAE's) and the other issue is as they grow and mature they tend not to eat algae, much preferring fish food. They can sometimes also get quite aggressive. When small you can keep more than one together but as they mature they often will not tolerate each other. Personally they aren't my favorite fish.
 
Here's a link with pictures so you can compare your algae. I don't agree with all his ways to get rid of different ones but we all have our own ways. James' Planted Tank - Algae Guide

It is very important to see the algae or know exactly what it is because there are some types of algae, such as Spirogyra that thrive in the same conditions as plants making it very hard to treat.

I rarely ever have BBA issues and have very low light to very high light tanks. I also never rely on algae eaters to take care of it either. Before you start dry ferts do a large WC and test to see what nitrate and phosphate levels you have. Shoot for 10-20ppm (I prefer 10ppm) nitrates and 1-3ppm phosphates. I would also consider using the siesta period of 3 on, 2 off, 3 on. Monitor your nitrates and phosphates for about 2-3 weeks a couple times a week to see if you will need more or less of nitrates and phosphates in your dosing. PPS dosing allows for customizing ferts to your aquarium needs. You truly need to consider getting pressurized CO2 because you can't dose higher amounts of Glut. I would also leave lights off the rest of the day after spot treating depending on the type algae you have. Algae grows when there is an imbalance between lights, ferts, and CO2. Are you turning off your filters before spot treating and leaving them off 20-30 minutes? If your not spot treating won't work as the water movement just blows the H2O2 or Excel away not giving it time to work.
 
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