Water changes

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dkmuller

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Since I did my fishless cycle and now have my betta in my 5.5 gallon tank all levels are testing great. How often and much do I take out. Should I vaccum the gravel. And do I rinse my filter in tank water or leave it awhile since I have only been cycled a week. Thanks.

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Are you testing with a liquid test kit? Do enough to keep your nitrates below 20ppm, you'll start to figure out a regular schedule after doing it for a little while. As far as the filter media I'd leave it alone for now. Maybe after a month swish it around in some old tank water. How much water you need to remove again depends on the nitrate levels, whatever it takes to get below 20ppm. On my betta tank I do about 50% every week just because I'm using 5 gallon buckets and he's in a ten gallon tank so it's easier. He doesn't mind the larger water changes and it keeps nitrates below 10ppm.


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With a 5.5 gallon tank, I would do 50% a week just because that size is so easy to change the water. Since you cycled fishless, don't bother cleaning the filter media for this month. Water changes don't affect your cycle, but getting too aggressive cleaning the filter can.

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Your Tank

Since I did my fishless cycle and now have my betta in my 5.5 gallon tank all levels are testing great. How often and much do I take out. Should I vaccum the gravel. And do I rinse my filter in tank water or leave it awhile since I have only been cycled a week. Thanks.

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Hello dk...

The goal of any tank keeper should be to keep the water free of dissolved fish wastes at all times. So, removing and replacing half the water at least twice a week is a start. Everything inside the tank dissolves in the water, so if you remove the water, you remove anything that's dissolved in it. There's no need to vacuum the bottom material or even test the water as long as you're maintaining pure water conditions, by flushing a lot of new, treated tap water through the tank.

You should rinse the filter media in some of the old water and clean the filter equipment whenever you perform a water change.

Remember: The more water you change and the more often you do it, the better the environment for the tank inhabitants.

B
 
Yes API master kit.

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There's no need to vacuum the bottom material or even test the water as long as you're maintaining pure water conditions

How do you know your water is "pure" if you never test it?

Since I did my fishless cycle and now have my betta in my 5.5 gallon tank all levels are testing great. How often and much do I take out. Should I vaccum the gravel. And do I rinse my filter in tank water or leave it awhile since I have only been cycled a week. Thanks.

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About a 50% weekly water change is standard and pretty easy to do on a 5g tank.

Cleaning your filter media monthly is a good routing to get into.

The detritus in the gravel can accumulate to increase nitrates. It isn't a bad idea to vac it as long as you don't have plants.
 
I have one real plant and three silk plants

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Just make sure when you "clean" filter pads all you're doing is rinsing them used tank water and putting them back. You use them until they fall apart.


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I have one real plant and three silk plants

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You can vac your gravel, just be gentle around your live plant so as not to disturb the roots.
The amount and frequency of your changes is highly dependent on your tank and stocking, so you're likely to get many different answers. With your tank size it makes sense to do a large water change frequently because it is so small. If you had 1 betta in a 55 instead of 5.5, we'd all be singing a different tune.

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Testing Tank Water

How do you know your water is "pure" if you never test it?



About a 50% weekly water change is standard and pretty easy to do on a 5g tank.

Cleaning your filter media monthly is a good routing to get into.

The detritus in the gravel can accumulate to increase nitrates. It isn't a bad idea to vac it as long as you don't have plants.

Hey Meb...

Since most, if not all fish will adapt to most public water supplies, I don't need to test it for chemical content. Now, if I change out a lot of tank water and do it weekly, there's no time for wastes to build up before I remove them through the large, weekly water change. Testing is for those water keepers that need to test because they're a little lazy changing out the tank water. I'm constantly flushing new, treated tap water through the tanks, so there's no reason to take time or spend money on testing the tank water. I know it's always waste free.

Easy pee-zee.

B
 
Hey Meb...

Since most, if not all fish will adapt to most public water supplies, I don't need to test it for chemical content. Now, if I change out a lot of tank water and do it weekly, there's no time for wastes to build up before I remove them through the large, weekly water change. Testing is for those water keepers that need to test because they're a little lazy changing out the tank water. I'm constantly flushing new, treated tap water through the tanks, so there's no reason to take time or spend money on testing the tank water. I know it's always waste free.

Easy pee-zee.

B
Except that you don't even know the parameters of your tap water. For every person on the planet those tap water parameters will fluctuate throughout the year. Your tap water may be fine and you might be perfectly willing to risk killing all your fish by not testing the water (an absolutely simple thing to do to ensure the health of the fish that you own) but don't assume that other people have your luck. What if their tap water has high levels of ammonia? You just murdered their entire tank with your advice for large frequent water changes. Its irresponsible fish keeping.
 
Tap Water Supplies

Come on Meb...

Work with me on this. Unless the tank keeper is attempting to raise rare fish, there's no point in testing the water out of the tap. The fish the vast majority of us keep will do fine in most public water supplies. The fish will adapt, they have for many decades. All we need to do is use a water treatment. There are exceptions to this rule, but those are extremely rare. I've kept a lot of different fish for more than a decade and don't test the water, I simply remove and replace a lot of it weekly. I don't believe I have the only good water source in the country. The problems most water keepers run into is they can't or don't take care of the water.

The chemical makeup of the tap water isn't important, keeping dissolved wastes from the fish poop out of the water is. This is all you need to do to keep a healthy, successful tank.

Sorry, I'm beating a "dead" horse on my posts. But, it's not brain surgery. Just change the water.

B
 
I've been waiting a bit on this one and I'm a little short on time right now, but I really have to agree that Mebbid is totally on the ball. Especially after I just went thru the other post about not needing to vacuum up waste but here it's a necessity. You really need to make up your mind as to when and if appropriate and not be misleading. As I said there, I'm looking forward to your response.


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Now, if I change out a lot of tank water and do it weekly, there's no time for wastes to build up before I remove them through the large, weekly water change. Testing is for those water keepers that need to test because they're a little lazy changing out the tank water.

Not quite. You should be careful about saying things like this, it's not really accurate and someone could get the wrong idea. A lethal ammonia or nitrite spike can happen in a matter of hours if something happens and the cycle is lost (pH crash, for example), or if the tank was never cycled in the first place.

I'll admit, I rarely test my water, but that's because I'm confident that I can avoid those situations. The only regular testing I do is for nitrate and phosphate, but only to make sure I don't need to dose extra ferts for the plants.
 
The chemical makeup of the tap water isn't important, keeping dissolved wastes from the fish poop out of the water is. This is all you need to do to keep a healthy, successful tank.

Sorry, I'm beating a "dead" horse on my posts. But, it's not brain surgery. Just change the water.

B

So a high tap water ammonia level is nothing to worry about and just change 50% of the water twice weekly? So that constant influx of ammonia is perfectly fine for the fish?

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/bad-ammonia-in-tap-289117.html
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f17/ammonia-in-tap-water-275662.html
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/ammonia-in-tap-water-problem-269681.html
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f15/high-ammonia-in-tap-water-what-should-i-do-227268.html

Anyone that lives around farms and has well water will very likely have huge influxes of ammonia and nitrate when the farmers start fertilizing their fields. How are they supposed to keep an influx of clean "waste" free water when their tap water is polluted with wastes?

How about when people have a low pH? At 6.5pH the bacteria stops consuming ammonia. Is that still nothing to worry about? You will never know unless you test the water.

Not testing your water is just laziness. It's not rocket science, it's not expensive, it's not difficult, and it's life insurance for your fish. Just test your water.
 
Anyone that lives around farms and has well water will very likely have huge influxes of ammonia and nitrate when the farmers start fertilizing their fields. How are they supposed to keep an influx of clean "waste" free water when their tap water is polluted with wastes?

How about when people have a low pH? At 6.5pH the bacteria stops consuming ammonia. Is that still nothing to worry about? You will never know unless you test the water.

Not testing your water is just laziness. It's not rocket science, it's not expensive, it's not difficult, and it's life insurance for your fish. Just test your water.

This is probably the most important part here. Well water and city water are very different and even among the vast difference between the two there is also differences between each city's set up and can be massive differences between each well used.

City water is typically maintained and filtered to some degree it could be a "chemical soup" depending on where since each state/country has it's own regulations. In most cases it will have chlorine it to kill any bacteria this is easily filtered out by a carbon filter and breaks down if distilled. You could also have fluoride in your water but this depends on where you live as some protest very avidly against it in some areas. But the water probably won't go through as much fluctuations as well water.

Well water is where things go crazy all year round. With well water you probably don't have chlorine but you definitely have metals. You should definitely test your well water professionally to make sure it doesn't have anything dangerous in it that could be detrimental over time to your own health. But in addition is through out the year the everything will fluctuate due to run-off.
In the fall the Ph will plummet because of all the fallen leaves. In the spring the ammonia could spike as it breaks down organic matter to make way for new healthy plants. The water could even cycle itself in your well and produces nitrates in the late spring. It could also have anaerobic bacteria which would produce toxins in the water. If you have a well I'd have it professionally tested where they can get every detail out of it. You don't want to have excessive mineral deposits as they can cause mental disorders and you don't want any of the other bad things in the well because certain things can be cause a ton of problems and ruin your stomach or promote cancer. Things that slowly develop due to exposure.

But as far as fishes ability to adapt you are right but only to a certain degree because a tank is still an enclosed space and maintaining the balance is key. as for the wild Ph is not as big a deal with most fish but really about the survival of the bacteria. Ph changes all the time in rivers and ponds from night to day and spring to fall it's all over the place. But they live in either a massive or a changing water supply so new healthy bacteria can be pumped into or out of certain areas or the fish may even migrate to better waters during certain parts of the year. But out in the wild there is certainly a lot to more worry about such as all the predators and other pollutants.
 
Come on Meb...



Work with me on this. Unless the tank keeper is attempting to raise rare fish, there's no point in testing the water out of the tap. The fish the vast majority of us keep will do fine in most public water supplies. The fish will adapt, they have for many decades. All we need to do is use a water treatment. There are exceptions to this rule, but those are extremely rare. I've kept a lot of different fish for more than a decade and don't test the water, I simply remove and replace a lot of it weekly. I don't believe I have the only good water source in the country. The problems most water keepers run into is they can't or don't take care of the water.



The chemical makeup of the tap water isn't important, keeping dissolved wastes from the fish poop out of the water is. This is all you need to do to keep a healthy, successful tank.



Sorry, I'm beating a "dead" horse on my posts. But, it's not brain surgery. Just change the water.



B


Hi B. I can sympathise with your claims a little bit. Your method of keeping up on regular water changes of half the tank volume is admirable and constantly doing this is probably 80% of what it takes to keep fish healthy. It is no coincidence that you have managed to keep tanks healthy and sick free for 10 years practicing this large weekly water change and I'm glad this has worked out for you.

The most important aspect to remember about this hobby is to remember that everyone's tank and setup is unique. Unfortunately, one size can only fit all if all is one size. All is not one size when it comes to fish keeping.

With respect, I gather from information in many of your previous posts, that you don't keep the most sophisticated of tanks in the world. You seem to stick to what you know which is undoubtedly in my mind the easier side of fish keeping, let me elaborate.

You always seem to recommend and sway towards the hardy and more forgiving species such as live bearing fish. And I've heard you say many of times that you keep lots of these fish.

You seem to stick with the 'dark green' plants that don't need much light and successfully grow them with no fertilisation under shop lighting.

You always tell people to stay away from 'the lighter green' plants. Is this because you have struggled to keep them in the past?

Let me tell you about the impression you give about some of your tanks, why I think they are unique to you and why I think you have success keeping them healthy.

From what I can gather, it would appear that you are fortunate enough to have relativity hard tap water that is sufficient or abundant in minerals and nutrients that plants require. This enables you to grow low light plants under shop lighting wavelengths. Less light, less nutrient requirement slow growth.

I can tell you that it is impossible for me to keep even low light plants alive without supplementing in my very soft tap water.

You are right that most fish will adapt to most water supplies but may of the live bearing fish such as platies, molly's, guppies and swordtails are some of the most popularly distributed aquarium fish due to thehe forgiving nature towards poorer conditions. This is because in the wild fish like guppies have been found adapting and thriving in many different environments where as molly's and such although again very adaptable are usually found in hard alkaline freshwater bodies and even brackish so it would not be surprising that you keep these kinds of fish successfully. Forgive me if I am way off here but since you never really talk much about your tanks and your set ups one has to assume. The only tank you have mentioned is your controversial and highly contradictive no water change which, no surprise, contains guppies and dark green plants.

The fact is, the impression we other members seem to get is that you are trying to mould everyone else's tank in to your set up and sometimes you give advice without caring or knowing the stock or anything about another person's tap water. As stated, some people are using wells or bottled water or tap water with an inline softener or RODI water. Some people want to grow different species of attractive high light plants instead. Some people don't like hornwort.

I'm not having a go here. I've been sympathetic to your setup and the needs of your tank. we are just asking you to be sympathetic towards everyone else's but above all, show an interest in their tanks rather than wondering what all the fuss is about when you are in your own bubble that it's unique to you.

There is nothing wrong with keeping things simple. Sometimes less is more but you cannot assume that there is one philosophy towards fish keeping that works or is gonna sit well with people that would love to have it easy but can't because their Tap water is high in nitrates.

That what happens when a soccer manager tries to inflict their philosophy on how to play when they move to another country and suddenly it doesn't work. The clever managers adapt and move with the game but the stubborn ones who try to make it work don't last long.

No matter what and how you think. This hobby is so diverse. One would be forgiven to think that you can chuck fish in a tank of water and it will be fine but as we all know and some of us have found out the hard way, that is simply not the case.

Please take some of this friendly advice on board.






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OK I tested my water Monday after adding my betta Saturday night and 0 ammonia 0 nitrates 0 nitrites and pH 7.4 . My question do I need to test my water every day. I will be doing a PWC this weekend which will be 1 week since I got her.

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Zeros across the board seem unnatural. I would retest tomorrow and make sure you follow directions closely. Are you using a liquid test kit or strips ?


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I am using a API master kit. My tank completed a successful fishless cycle. I was told those are OK readings and my fish would be OK. Now I am concerned.

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