Water changing filter/heater

[Guest]

lol..it usually took my 45 min. to clean out my tank when I had it in the basement. Try carrying water down the stairs in a one gallon pitcher about 10 times!!!! LOL. Right now I don't have ANY algea on my glass(thanks to the million snails). I am getting MORE plants today so more snails here we come!!! LOL!. NOw that my tank is upstairs it is sooo much easier!!! My live plants don't get dirty either..it will come though...LOL

 

[Fishyfanatic]

You don't need to clean all of your decor at every water change. Cleaning the tank too much will disrupt the beneficial bacteria. To make water changes easier, consider purchasing a Python. It takes about 20 minutes to change water on my 55, 29, and 10 gal.

 

[JodiMartin2003]

Regarding the frequency of the water changes, it doesn't matter what the ammonia and nitrite readings are when a tank is cycled. They will always be 0. You should be concerned with the Nitrate reading. What is your usual Nitrate reading before doing a water change?

I have to disagree about your statement. There are several reasons your ammonia and nitrate will go up in a cycled tank. Too many fish, too much food, not enough water changes will all cause those readings to fluctuate. They are not only present in tanks that arent cycled. They SHOULD only be present in tanks that arent cycled, it doesnt meant that they arent there in tanks that are.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

If the tank is maintained properly, ammonia or nitrites should never be present. When too many fish are added at once, then yes there may be an ammonia reading. But having too many fish, not performing enough water changes, or feeding too much will result in higher Nitrates, not Ammonia. And removing dead fish from a tank and excess food is considered proper maintenance. If dead fish are left in the tank then Ammonia may be present.

 

[Guest]

how much ammonia should there be in a well kept tank? Also when cycling how much nitrate should be present?

Thanks! I so want to do this right this time!

 

[Fishyfanatic]

Ammonia should always be 0 in a well kept tank. Nitrate is the end result of the cycle. Typically a reading of about 10 indicates that the cycle is over. Just stay below 30. I say 30 because it is easier to maintain a lower Nitrate reading than having to try to reduce it. The highest that I feel comfortable with is 40.

 

[Guest]

thanks. With the test strips it was hard to tell if the nitrates were 0 or 5 but it looked closer to 0. Are the liquid tests difficult? Also my tank has NEVER been cloudy at all. Does this mean that the tank isnt cycling?

 

[Fishyfanatic]

The liquid tests are cheaper than the strips and are more accurate. I don't take much stock in the strips since they have always been wrong for me. If your Nitrates are 0 it just means that the tank hasn't completed the cycle yet. It will take about 6 weeks before its over.

The liquid reagent kits seemed a little intimidating at first. But after a while it's not a big deal. I don't use the test booklet anymore. We did for the first few months but now I know how to do them all without looking. An easy way to measure the water for the liquid reagent kit is to buy a baby medicine syringe. Pull water from your tank and put it into the tube. It's ALOT easier that way instead of pouring some in, dumping some out, adding a little more, dumping a small amount out, then adding a little more.

 

[Guest]

thanks! my LFS told me to wait a month before adding new fish because it will make it a lot easier. My LFS has proven that she knows what she is talking about. She never tries to sell ANYTHING to you except what you need or ask for. I have nver seen a dead fish in any of the tanks (fresh and salt). I will look for those test kits! I am glad that you have given me help!

 

[Fishyfanatic]

If you have any questions, please ask. Even though you may think you trust the lfs, they would suprise you. The best thing to do is ask questions there then come back here and double check the answers.