What am I doing wrong?

[rcjubei]

CO2 injected and high-light aquarium up and running since Feb 1st. It was an old eclipse 3 hood until I changed lighting, substrate, CO2 and added plants.

In march I ran into a green water problem because of Nitrate and phosphate being out of balance, I have since corrected it (well not phosphate, phos-zorb didn't do much). My water was crystal clear there after.

My dilemma. I have noticed my water becoming increasingly cloudy over the last week and water changes are not helping the situation. I have not added new fish or have changed my routine.

My routine is as follows:
Water changes once every 5 to 7 days 25%, with potassium sulfate added after each change to obtain 20ppm. Filter padding changed once a week with 100% polyester batting(charcoal removed). Discus fed twice a day while others only once, all uneaten food removed from feeder after 5 minutes. CSM+B + MgSO4.7H2O (Mix= 1 tsp in 167ml) 1ml of solution dosed daily.

All plants are green and healthy and pearling on a daily basis. Do you think I am dosing micro nutrients too often or too much of solution? I have since reinserted charcoal padding with no change in water quality.

Current water params:
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 20ppm
Phosphate >3.0ppm
Ammonia 0ppm
Kh 9 ppm
Ph 7.0 ppm
CO2 27ppm
Cl 0
Temp 85.0 F

 

[mattrox]

It could be a natural bacterial bloom. One TFH (I think) book I have read states that the bllom will clear up and there is some evidence that it is beter not to PWC until after the water clears up. Provided of course you are not letting the tank get out of control with waste produces.

It should clear up on its own in time.

 

[malkore]

Are you replacing ALL of your filter media at each water change?

 

[rcjubei]

Are you replacing ALL of your filter media at each water change?

The Emperor has two different slots for cartridges, one for media and the other for the activated carbon. My media cartridges contain ceramic tiles which I do not change (ceramic tiles were placed feb 2005), I only change the polyester batting on the black cartridge frames (held by rubberbands) which use to contain the activated carbon.

My two suspicions are that I may be dosing too many micro-nutrients or my elevated phosphate (being the readings are so high)?

I use Seachem's phosphate test and have used the control test to make sure the Seachem's product was still valid. I even tested tap water after 24 hrs which resulted in 1ppm of phosphate.
Before I add any water to tank I place in 2x5-gallon buckets overnight and add Aqua-plus by Nutrafin.
I only dose after water changes Cycle by Nutrafin on the bio-wheel.
Vita-chem is usually added 3 times a week to food of fish.

I am going to get distilled water from work tomorrow and dilute some of my aquarium water(1 oz aquarium/1oz distilled) to see if I still get off the chart readings. I have checked both aquariums I have for phosphates with both results turning blue-ish green like the test precipitates? I do not add anything to my 20 gallon tank except Potassium Sulfate, Cycle and Aqua plus?
Sorry so long winded, I just wanted to give a clear picture. Thanks for the replies you guys!

 

[rcjubei]

It could be a natural bacterial bloom. One TFH (I think) book I have read states that the bllom will clear up and there is some evidence that it is beter not to PWC until after the water clears up. Provided of course you are not letting the tank get out of control with waste produces.

It should clear up on its own in time.

I have stopped doing partial water changes (only going to do the weekly water change), all plants are clean and healthy, the usual minimal spots of algae are on the tank wall but nothing my mag can't get off.

 

[TankGirl]

I would say this is a bacterial bloom, as suggested, and it will go away on its own. I don't see any indication that there is a water quality problem that needs attention, so I would not take any drastic actions that could themselves cause problems. It may take several weeks, but I am confident it will clear up, if you can stand to wait. It could also be coming from the food you are using.

I have seen people cause more problems trying to fix something that will resolve on its own, and I know I have done this myself, so if the fish are not showing signs of distress and it is an esthetic issue of unsightly cloudiness, tincture of time might be the best bet.

 

[rcjubei]

It could also be coming from the food you are using.

I am feeding my discus beefheart everyother day, Tetra bites and live blood worms on the opposite days. Tetras and SAE are fed flake food or whatever falls from the discus's plate

I have never experienced a bacterial bloom, but I am willing to wait it out if thats what it takes, I just wanted to make sure it was nothing I was doing. Once again, thanks for the replies.

 

[kaaikop]

Interesting thread... keep us posted!
I will probably run into the same problem very soon

 

[rcjubei]

Update:

No water changes have been done for one week. The water is a merky green once again. Water parameters are WNL except Phoshate (still >3ppm). Plants still looking good and fish still swimming happy.

Plan B .......(Plan A, the waiting period seems like its not working)

I was thinking about buying a UV light?

9Watts:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=12711&N=2004+113778

And the eheim classic filter: Item #2213-37
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=3603&N=2004+22777

I would go with filstar Xp2 but flow rate would be too much for inline UV light after reading articles:
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=39
and
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showquestion.php?faq=2&fldAuto=31

Place the UV inling and pack the eheim classic with ceramic rings and phosphate removal media:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=8996&N=2004+113803

If everything works as planned, I will have adequate filtration, decreased phosphate, and no green water. I will be happy ..........yeah right!

 

[TankGirl]

I think you would solve your problem with your plan (bummer the sterilizer is on back order - you can check out the Turbo Twist 9w at Bigalsonline.com if you are impatient ) and I think you will be glad you invested in these items for the long term. Keep us posted.

 

[mattrox]

Beefheart is a notoriuosly messy food. That may contribute to the problem.

You probably had a bacterial bloom and an algae bloom. Hopefully the bacterial bloom has gone. Probably need to get the phospate down. I don't rally have any constructive advice on that though. I would definitely go back to your regulr pwc routine now, the Discus will appreciate it.

Maybe add more phospate loving plants??? Which plants have a high PO4 requirement? Maybe just faster growing plants??

 

[rcjubei]

Update:
Eheim classic 2237-13 added. Filled with 1/2 of phos-ban container, ceramic rings, and Eheim Ehfisubstrat (this came with container). Tank after 24 hrs appears to be 80% better but not completely clear, some algae still on anubius plants. Tested water with following results:
Ph 7.0
Kh 10
po4 3.0ppm
NO3 20ppm
NO2 0
NH3 0
UV sterilizer on back order so I did not purchase it after all. Sitting and waiting to see if water becomes crystal clear........(tapping fingers on table while looking at watch). :?
Added a few micro swords to bottom, but I think I am going to search the net to see what fast growing plants I may be able to add. I really don't want to add the sterilizer if I do not have to. I know there are millions of crystal clear planted co2 tanks out there that do not run UV sterilizer! Ho-hum (impatiantly looking at watch now).........Maybe I will stop by Big Al's online to see how fast I can get that UV sterilizer

 

[TankGirl]

Once you get that phosphate down I think you will see improvement, but it will take a little bit of a wait. I am interested to see how quickly the phosphate remover works, and how long it works.