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Old 03-25-2004, 01:57 AM   #1
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What is going on with my tank?

i have a 55 gallon freshwater tank. i first started it about 2 years ago, about 1 year ago the heater broke without me noticing and wiped out the few fish i had in it. i just let it set until recently. i moved it into another room. i kept about 5-10 gal of the old water. i set it up got the temp up set the PH to 7.0 and added some fish. this was about 3 weeks ago. the first fish were some black neons, and two gaurmi's (sp), i also have a Dojo Loach from another tank. well the first black neons showed signs of ick, little white specs on the body, bouncing around, etc. so i run to the LFS and pic up some medicine. i followed the dosage to the letter with out any luck they all ended up dieing. then the gaurmi's had spots. i used the ick med for 4 days with no luck more spots showed up. i did a water change about 25%, waited 2 days picked up some more neons and different med (just in case) sure enough they started getting the spots. so i started the new med. they looked like they were getting better, then yesterday i wake up and i have 6 dead fish, and today the other neons died and i just lost one of the gaurmi's. any ideas? i have started to raise the temp slowly, right now its at 78*. all my test are good except the nitrite is at 1.0. thanks for any help and sorry its so long!
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Old 03-25-2004, 02:07 AM   #2
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[center:248740be06] Welcome to AA, paintbug!! [/center:248740be06]

Quote:
set the PH to 7.0
You set the pH?? This is probably contributing to your problems.

(EDIT--I hope this makes sense, it's midnight and I am tired)
Here's what you need to do. Read the article on cycling FW tanks and the article about ich under the articles link on this board.
That nitrite is too high (I think, what units is that?). I don't believe your tank is cycled, do a 25% water change everyday until the ammonia and nitrites are at zero. Forget the ich meds and try the heat treatment suggested in the article by Allivymar. Do not add any fish to this tank until it is fully cycles and the ich is gone from the fish. What fish are left in the tank?

There will be more help in the morning
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Old 03-25-2004, 04:51 AM   #3
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Ditto, first make sure ammonia and nitrite levels are 0. When there are ammonia and nitrite spikes, it can stress the fish, making them more susceptible to diseases. For the ich, I'd recommend trying the temperature treatment first (described in Allivymar's article as mentioned above), if your fish can take it. It seems to be working for my current bout with ich.
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Old 03-25-2004, 07:05 AM   #4
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Hiya paintbug and welcome to Aquariumadvice.

I also want to add its likely the nitrites contributing to your fish deaths. Nitrite levels above .5ppm can kill fish (it suffocates em). A 25% change will only lower the nitrites to .75, still dangerous.

You can find the ich article in the article section of the forum.
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Old 03-25-2004, 12:40 PM   #5
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i have been doing the water changes the nitrite was as high as 5.0 ppm (im using the aquarium pharmaceuticals test kit) which im sure is what killed the first batch of neons. but the latest med im using said not to but today will be the last for it i will read the articles you guys mentioned hopefully that helps. thanks for the quick replies!
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Old 03-25-2004, 02:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
but the latest med im using said not to
High nitrites and ammonia take precedence over any med!! Do 50% changes a day until your nitrite comes down (25%?? I wasn't thinking clearly enough last night) to undetectable on their scale.
In fact, stop the meds and go with the natural treatment as stated in the article. These fish need clean water RIGHT NOW!!
What fish are still in that tank? I'm having a math melt down, then you added fish and I'm all confused!
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Old 03-26-2004, 01:48 AM   #7
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well i came in from work and they seem much much better. i stopped all meds 2 days ago after finding this place . the temp is at 80* my nitrate is still high but its coming down. i picked up a nitrate test kit today and its high as well, which is to be expected right? once the nitrate drops the nitrite should as well right?

right know i have 1 Dojo Loach, 1 male Kirbensis, 1 Dwarf gourami, 2 small allege eaters (Oct-somthings). thats all thats left. they ones that had specks seem to have less specks today so hopefully the worst is behind me. im so glad i found this place
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Old 03-26-2004, 06:28 AM   #8
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Heh kinda backwards there paintbug.

The nitrItes are converted to nitrAtes by nitrifying bacteria. NitrItes are deadly; at lower levels nitrates are fine (under 40ppm is where we try to keep ours). What is the measurement of nitrAtes? You'll never see 0 nitrAtes, unless you have a really well planted tank and even then its no guarantee.
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Old 03-26-2004, 05:11 PM   #9
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After all this, restocking your tank will be your next big task. Research your fish carefully. I do not believe Kribensis are right in a community tank. If they were, I would be keeping them in my community tank!
From liveaquaria.com:
Quote:
The Kribensis Cichlid, which originated from Western Africa ... is one of the smaller African Cichlids, and is often referred to as a dwarf Cichlid.

The Kribensis Cichlid is ideally kept in a 50-gallon or larger aquarium decorated with plenty of rocks and caves in order to provide adequate hiding places for these territorial fish.

Ideal tank mates include other peaceful or semi-aggressive Lake Malawi African Cichlids and African Catfish of the genus Synodontis.
When immature, they are fine. Once sexual maturity hits, the territoriality will be present. However, JMHO, I would not keep them with semi-aggressive LMA cichlids as liveaqauria suggests.
Others may disagree, but when dealing with cichlids (and I have made many mistakes), reserach is key. Take what the LFS employees say with a grain of salt!!
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Old 03-26-2004, 11:12 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Allivymar
Heh kinda backwards there paintbug.

The nitrItes are converted to nitrAtes by nitrifying bacteria. NitrItes are deadly; at lower levels nitrates are fine (under 40ppm is where we try to keep ours). What is the measurement of nitrAtes? You'll never see 0 nitrAtes, unless you have a really well planted tank and even then its no guarantee.
like i said im new well having to learn all this again.

Menagerie: I had a pair of Kribensis before in a community tank, they were not a problem they actually bread once. they are pretty aggressive when they have young which is understandable. the male i have now gets along fine with the other fish i have or had as well. im not trying to suggest or recommend as im far from being a pro but they did work for me before. but im thinking since im going to have to restock anyway i may just make it a cichlid tank, but im still debating.
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Old 03-27-2004, 12:02 AM   #11
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I'm new :D well having to learn all this again.
*grin* Tis why we are here! Just want to make sure we catch ya before you wind up utterly confused LOL

Cichlids, wheee! My fav fish; personally the SA are the best ;) I currently have angelfish, Bolivian rams and keyhole cichlids; I have a breeding pair of angels, and a breeding pair of rams. What fun *grin* There are LOTS of cichlids out there; you might want to look into some of the other species and see which you like best and which would work best with your pH/hardness (ie: many of the African cichlids will need a higher pH/harder water, cept for the kribs of course).
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Old 03-27-2004, 12:59 AM   #12
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i had a pair of Blue rams before i really liked them. i couldnt get them to breed however. i think they may have been related (i know it doesnt matter in the fish world). im still thinking about it. since the cichlids are usually more expensive, i want to make sure the water is 100% good to go. before i do anything. i just got through checking on the fish i have left, i dont see any white specks and they are all doing great and are very active. still working on the nitRITE levels. the water should be good to go by payday, so i can hit the LFS which is having a sale this week
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Old 03-27-2004, 01:05 AM   #13
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Blue rams are tougher to breed then Bolivians, although the problem may have been they were both girls or boys

Don't forget to QT those new fish once the tank is cycled and your ready for em! You don't want to go thru this again.
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Old 03-27-2004, 01:29 AM   #14
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they were a pair i promise i guess one was ugly to the other i dont know LOL. i think im going to set up my old 10 gal as a QT since its empty. do you think if i used some of the old water from my 55 gal it would be ok?
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Old 03-27-2004, 07:10 PM   #15
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do you think if i used some of the old water from my 55 gal it would be ok?
Is that the tank with problems? If you are 100% sure the tank is cured then use the water; however, I would set up the QT tank fresh.
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Old 03-27-2004, 11:10 PM   #16
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im not 100% sure. i dont see any specks anymore and the fish are really active finally. but to be safe i believe i will just start it fresh.
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Old 03-28-2004, 12:10 AM   #17
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I believe the rule of thumb is keep up treatment for two weeks after the last sign of illness is gone. Definitely don't add anyone new in that time.
It sounds like things are going well . Most people QT new fish for two weeks. Hopefully after two weeks time, the new additions will be ready to go into the main tank (as long as there are no more problems with the main tank).
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Old 03-28-2004, 07:04 PM   #18
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yep everything is going good now thanks again to you guys for helping!
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