180 gallon new tank setup

[dustybrannum]

Ok, I have many questions overall but I will start with only a few. I am putting at least a 4" DSB, using Southdown my local HD oredered from Pennsylvania (about $11 a 50lb bag with shipping), in my 180 gallon Oceanic. Its shape is 6'(long)x2'x2'. I am not planning on using a sump due to the fact that my tank is not drilled. I have a Red Sea Berlin Turbo XL w/pump as my skimmer. I put a shelf on the back of my tank and put the skimmer on top so that I have easy access to remove the cup. Now for the question:

The pump for the skimmer is supposed to "skim" the water off of the top of the tank, therefore I need to get a hang on overflow box and put the pump to the skimmer inside? Then have the output of the skimmer drain into a part of the aquarium away from the overflow box?

FYI: I am using 6 powerheads to move around my water so as not to create any dead spots. With the original glass top on the aquarium, having it full of just plain tap water and circulating with my power heads the temp stays at about 88 degrees F. Why is it so high? I opened the front lids for about 5 hours and it dropped to 82. Do the powerheads produce that much heat? Especially since I have not even been running any lights. The ambient temperature of that room stays below 80 and there is no direct sunlight on the tank. Well so much for me picking your brains for now. Thanks for any responses you have or suggestions.

 

[mulron]

The pump for the skimmer is supposed to "skim" the water off of the top of the tank, therefore I need to get a hang on overflow box and put the pump to the skimmer inside? Then have the output of the skimmer drain into a part of the aquarium away from the overflow box?

Well.. Overflows go straight to the sump normally and I would not attach one to the skimmer. Skimmers need a optimal waterflow to work their best. It is really hard to control the flow rate of the overflow box. That being said, I would put a sump in because if you get an overflow box then you don't need to drill your tank. 10gal tank at worst case and then attach everything to that. The skimmer does not have to be "skimming" the very top of the water. By adding an overflow box that will pull water in from the surface, so no need to worry about that. --If you are dead set against a sump then just submerge the skimmer's pump neer the surface of the tank and then have the skimmer drain in another part of the tank. No overflow box is needed then.

As for the temp, it is much easier to heat water then to cool it. At 200 gals the tank will retain much more heat. I would say no though to 6 powerheads giving off that much heat. Maybe the heater is off in some way? if there is nothing in the tank, un-plug or turn down (5degs) the heater and see where it goes. Most folks on here run their tanks open(no lids) because it aids in cooling the tank via evaporation.

have fun!

 

[reefrunner69]

The pump for the skimmer is supposed to "skim" the water off of the top of the tank, therefore I need to get a hang on overflow box and put the pump to the skimmer inside? Then have the output of the skimmer drain into a part of the aquarium away from the overflow box?

I honestly see no good way to do this. You can simply put the pump in the bottom of the tank, it doesn't have to skim, but it will be more efficient if it is fed surface skimmed water. The best way for this to happen is going to be to use a sump. You can purchase external overflows for this purpose, personally I wouldn't have such a large tank without a sump. If you really want to do it this way, I would recommend posting in the DIY forum and seeing if the hardcore DIYers can come up with something

With the original glass top on the aquarium, having it full of just plain tap water and circulating with my power heads the temp stays at about 88 degrees F. Why is it so high?

The glass tops are hindering evaporation which is how the water cools itself. Remove the glass tops completely and you should notice it come down to the room temp or very close. Add a fan blowing across the surface and it should come down a few more degrees

 

[dustybrannum]

My fear with adding a sump is that we have a lot of power outages where i live and I am afraid the overflow/siphon box will drain the tank into the floor if my return pump goes out.

 

[reefrunner69]

There are very simple ways to prevent this More on that when I come back from the LFS

 

[mulron]

I'm sure Kevin will give ya few more ideas but here are some:
Buy a UPS(Battery backup) and hookup just the pumps to it. If you commonly have outages then this can save your tank by keeping the flow going if the outage lasts a long time.

Also you can buy/get a bigger sump to handle the water the overflow box would transfer to the sump w/o the pump putting it back into the tank. Meaning if your tank is 6'x2'x2' = the overflow will probably go down 2" into the tank. So the total gals for this would be:

6' x 2' x 2" x7.5 = 15.1 gals

So as long as you have room in your sump to hold 15 extra gals then you will not have spill over.

Hope it helps.

 

[dustybrannum]

You know mulron as an engineer that should have been evident to me but I guess sometimes the obvious is not so obvious when you are stressing about something. Thank you very much for that insight.

 

[dustybrannum]

I have several 10 gallons, 2-20 gallons, 45, 55 gallon FW tanks at my house. Any ideas on which would be best for a sump? Currently I have 4 36" hoods that came with the tank, I bought two blue actinics and two whites. Will this be enough to get started with some fish and live rock?
Also, what is the best return pump for my sump? Should I put some of my Southdown in the sump tank and does it need light?

I bet you guys feel like you keep saying the same things to new guys. You are a great help!

 

[reefrunner69]

If you drill a hole in your return line at the waters surface, when the pump shuts off the hole will such air and stop any back siphon. Preventing the drain from draining too much water is simply a matter of adjusting the inside box

For a 180g tank, I'd go with the 55g for a sump

 

[mulron]

have several 10 gallons, 2-20 gallons, 45, 55 gallon FW tanks at my house. Any ideas on which would be best for a sump?

I agree with Kevin on the 55gal. More water the better. Besides it will add more room for equipment you may need. And also the hole he suggests will save yea.

Currently I have 4 36" hoods that came with the tank, I bought two blue actinics and two whites. Will this be enough to get started with some fish and live rock?

I'm assuming these are NO lights(ie 40W). Should be ok for fish. I'd have to double check on the LR though.

Also, what is the best return pump for my sump?

Matter of opinion on a pump brand really, but stay away from RIOs. For an overflow box I would go no less than 800GPH with a 1200GPH pump. Head ht will reduce the GPH on the pump so that is why it is more.

Should I put some of my Southdown in the sump tank and does it need light?

Nope and Nope, just throw all the junk you don't want to see in the tank in there.



Have fun!

 

[dustybrannum]

ok here is the run down:
180 gallon tank
4 36" NO hoods- 2 whites, 2 blue actinics
berlin xl classic turbo some such skimmer( came with a pump according to the book 550gph)
6 Power heads in tank
2 heaters-dont remember wattage
but as hot as it is with just water in it dont think i will need them
Access to a 55 glass for a sump, but would a large plastic tub be easier to use?

Needs( i think):
RO/DI machine
Overflow(DIY?)
Return pump
LR
More salt mix i have 200 gal bucket of instant ocean
better lighting? for fish and LR

Anyfurther suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mulron]

55gal vs tub?
either really. 55gal is probably longer than any tub you can get. I'd stick with the 55gal tank. up to you



I'd rank the needs as this:

Overflow
Return Pump
Salt
Test Kits?

-----
If you have $
then more LR
lighting
RO unit



Other than that you're set.

 

[dustybrannum]

where would i get my water then to start up without a ro/di unit? i am going to try and do a diy sump and overflow using acrylic. i have test kits.

 

[mulron]

LFS sells water usually or grocery stores sometimes do also. But I would test your tap water, if it is not bad use that. If you've got the cash then go ahead. I figured since you were talking DIY, you were looking to save a few bucks.

 

[dustybrannum]

what all tests would i run on my tap?

 

[kidafius]

ph, nitrate, phosphate, and possibly silica is what i'd test for. Also, can you use one of the powerheads that you have already as a return pump? My LFS sells RO for $.25/gal. Ebay has a very wide selection of RO units as well.

FWIW, I used 1/4" thick 5/8" inside diameter clear rubber tubing for my return line with a tee connection at the end for extra directional current. It doesn't really matter what you use, but the connector is good ole hard plastic that drills easily and cleanly, to put your syphon-break hole.

And, don't forget to do some emergency situation tests such as unplugging the powerhead to see how high your sump fills up when there is no power. Good luck.

 

[dustybrannum]

oh ok thanks, would the powerhead actually put enough water back in the tank quick enough? or is that just something i would have to test?

 

[dustybrannum]

ohfor ro/di i was looking at the 4 stage barracuda at the ad here.