30 g done cycling??? Also need coral help!

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

bwilcox1208

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Sep 11, 2008
Messages
45
Location
California
Hey everyone, new to AA! Well I have had my tank cycling for about 2 weeks now. I have a 30 G setup with about 20 lbs of "live" sand. About 10 lbs of Indonesian LR. A nice powerhead, a Penguin BIOWHEEL 200 3 stage filter system, and a 100 watt heater. Also a PC 48 WATT 50/50 with acentic lighting. I have done lots of reasearch, but when i baught most of the supplies the LFS told me to use a fish to cycle. I have had a domino damsel in there for the whole time and he is still doing fine. I added some bacteria, and the live rock 2 weeks ago, and I took my water to the lfs. They tested it and said everything was perfect. I am going to take him out because I know he is not needed and he is agressive. I also have a counch snail who is a very good cleaner. My questions are

1) if my water is fine, and I added bacteria and buffer when i started tank. also have had live rock in there for a while can I add a mated pair of clowns?

2) Also I will attach pics, but I picked up a few very small frags of green and red zooanthids today. The lfs wasnt to helpful by telling me how to mount them. They had a little peice of LR on the bottom of them, I used the marine glue, and just placed them ontop of my live rock....will this be ok? Also do I have to feed them directley???

Thanks so much, will keep every one informed, and look forward to learning more and more, and meeting some of you!

Ben

ps...I know I need more LR. Working on it! Also should I use a lot of base rock to save on money, and weight. Doesnt it weigh less so its better? Any help is appreciated. Expecially if ANYONE can fill me in and gimmie a quick "class" on the coral I got in there. It seemed to open up GREAT after a few hours after I introduced it to the tank.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1388.jpg
    IMG_1388.jpg
    73.2 KB · Views: 106
  • IMG_1389.jpg
    IMG_1389.jpg
    76.9 KB · Views: 95
is tank cycled?! need help !!!!

:n00b:Hey everyone, new to AA! Well I have had my tank cycling for about 2 weeks now. I have a 30 G setup with about 20 lbs of "live" sand. About 10 lbs of Indonesian LR. A nice powerhead, a Penguin BIOWHEEL 200 3 stage filter system, and a 100 watt heater. Also a PC 48 WATT 50/50 with acentic lighting. I have done lots of reasearch, but when i baught most of the supplies the LFS told me to use a fish to cycle. I have had a domino damsel in there for the whole time and he is still doing fine. I added some bacteria, and the live rock 2 weeks ago, and I took my water to the lfs. They tested it and said everything was perfect. I am going to take him out because I know he is not needed and he is agressive. I also have a counch snail who is a very good cleaner. My questions are

1) if my water is fine, and I added bacteria and buffer when i started tank. also have had live rock in there for a while can I add a mated pair of clowns?

2) Also I will attach pics, but I picked up a few very small frags of green and red zooanthids today. The lfs wasnt to helpful by telling me how to mount them. They had a little peice of LR on the bottom of them, I used the marine glue, and just placed them ontop of my live rock....will this be ok? Also do I have to feed them directley???

Thanks so much, will keep every one informed, and look forward to learning more and more, and meeting some of you!

Ben

ps...I know I need more LR. Working on it! Also should I use a lot of base rock to save on money, and weight. Doesnt it weigh less so its better? Any help is appreciated. Expecially if ANYONE can fill me in and gimmie a quick "class" on the coral I got in there. It seemed to open up GREAT after a few hours after I introduced it to the tank.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1388.jpg
    IMG_1388.jpg
    73.2 KB · Views: 92
  • IMG_1389.jpg
    IMG_1389.jpg
    76.9 KB · Views: 104
I'm still new too, so I can't really answer a lot of your questions... except perhaps one.

Live rock and dead rock weigh the same. The difference is live rock has bacterial cultures living all over (and in) it. Dead rock just has none of this good bacteria left on it... it "died" off. If you have dead rock in an aquarium long enough with live rock, the dead rock will, over time, become live rock too... (with bacteria growing all over it..)
 
Did you monitor the cycle with a test kit The ammonia should have spiked and then nitrites and then nitrates?.

The Zoanthids are just filter feeders and will live off whats in the water? None of my corals are attached to my live rock just sitting on top. Usually they get mounted to a plug or piece of rubble and thats it.

Clownfish are really hardy but I would not recommend adding any livestock until your all setup and cycling is complete. Prefferably just Spend the money on more liverock?

What kind of Buffer are you using there really should not be a need for a buffer or that bacteria in a can stuff either?

Are you using tap water/Store bought/RO/DI?

How are you mixing and storing and testing your salt water?
 
Hello, well I had a cheapy test kit and found out it was defective after all this time! Thats why I took my water to the LFS and got it tested. They said it was good, and there was nothing wrong with it. So I cant say if my ammonia or any of that spiked. So you said you dont mount your Zoas onto live rock? But can you see the picture of mine? And is it ok that I did that? So you think I should wait for the cycle? Well thats what I was wondering, is it done yet? Water is testing out good, coral is surviving. Snail is surviving, and dominio damsel is good. I can wait, I know not to be in a hurry but just curious.....ALso I am using tap water, but using the decholorifier for it. There is a fish store around here that sells RODI water for super cheap so I willl probably start using that. But as of now I just did tap. Also I had to do a 10% water change yesterday because my SG was a little high (1.026). The LFS told me this because my hydrometer was wrong. So I took out 10% or maybe a little less and replaced it was no salt tap water. I just put a little decholorifier in there since it was tap...is that alright? Ill start buying the RODI water from the lfs in the future. Also you said mixing and storing my saltwatser.....well I havent had to do a real PWC yet because its still cycling, so I have not stored it. When I first set up the tank I just mixed it in the tank......thanks so much for the help, much appreciated!!!!! Any more help would be awesome!
 
Um...hmmm...Ok...

Your LFS is working with and giving dated advice. It is not necessary to cycle your tank with any live animals.

#1 suggestion for you is to buy your own test kits and keep track of your water parameters.

#2 go to the article section here and read about cycling your tank.

#3 do not add any fish until you have gotten some test kits and know what your readings are.

Unless you got LS from an established tank and the LR you go was fully cured I would venture to guess that your tank is not fully cycled. You need to be testing your water and doing PWCs. The corals you got are called Zoanthids and may or may not make it if your tank is not finished cycling. You do not need to feed them as they will get what they need from light/water column.

Read through those articles and research before you buy.
 
Ben - do you have test kits to check and post all your results/parameters?
 
ok, well by using the tap water and the dechlorinator will that be alright? Also how should I do my lighting. I have a NOVA extreme 48 watt T5 High Output light. Its got the 460 nm actinic T5 lamp, and the 10,000 K T5 Lamp. Will this lighitng be sufficent enough for a 30g? Also how long should I leave it on and how long should i keep it off. When i turn it off my Zoas seem to shut up, and then when I turn it on they open back up....is this normal? Also for the zoas, how long do you think the little buds will take to spead over the LR that they are on? Thanks a lot for the help. Another thing I forgot to mention, my damsel fish ended up passing away. I was going to take him back to the LFS today, but I woke up and he was gone. I am assuming because of the high levels of ammonia or nitrite. Will this ruin my whole tank? I took him our immdietley but will this tank still be ok???? thanks again for all of your help, helps me out a lot. should have went on here and asked about the damsel before listening to the stupid LFS!!!!
 
I can comment on the Zoa "opening" question since I have had the same post. When I first got my Zoa's they would only open when the lights were on. Now after about 4weeks of having them, they stay open most of the night. Guess it just took time for them to adjust.

Man, and after a few weeks what I thought was "open" really wasn't... they are huge now. Really pretty!
 
should have went on here and asked about the damsel before listening to the stupid LFS!!!!

Your LFS is trying to make some money. At least you know that now. I would suggest finding another LFS if you can. OK lesson learned. As mentioned above read our article on cycling. What are your water parameters right now?
 
ok I figured that. I just got back from another LFS. As I said before the other LFS said my water was good. I took it to this one..they also said it was good! So I baught a test tube testing kit for nitrates, nitrites, and PH. They told me my PH was a little high though. My results were, nitrates are about 5 but close to the 10 mark. My nitrites are a ONE!!!! How is this!?!? They told me at 2 places it was ok? But I saw myself on the strip test that it was ok. Also like I said before I have some small zoas in there, a damsel and a conch snail...all doing great. Have been for a while now too. Also the PH was a 8.6, but the kit only went to 8.6. Could this mean it is higher? What the heck is going on and how do i get myself out of this hole!!! Thanks so much for the help guys.

Ben
 
heres the pic of the brand of testers.......are they crap or something?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1400.jpg
    IMG_1400.jpg
    112.2 KB · Views: 79
...But I saw myself on the strip test that it was ok. ...

There's the answer to your own question. Test strips are notoriously hit and miss. Any LFS, in my opinion, that is determining whether your tank is ready for livestock by using test strips doesn't deserve your business... let alone anyone else's. :-?

You've made the first steps to getting yourself out of the hole... getting test kits and doing your own tests. However, I note your pH test kit is for freshwater. Are there two color charts that came with it? I think the chemicals used for freshwater and saltwater are the same, it's just that the color chart is different. If you don't specifically have a saltwater color chart, then I'd wouldn't trust that pH reading too much.

Nitrites at 1.0 - that makes sense. As several have mentioned, you're most likely in the beginning or middle of a normal cycle. It could take a bit for livestock to show signs of stress from the cycle, so just because they're alive now doesn't mean the cycle isn't happening. Trust your test kits. (Plus... zoanthids are pretty darn tough to kill. Except in my tank. :confused:)

Personally... if it was me... I'd...

1. Take the damsel back to for a refund/credit if you can.
2. Put 30-40 lbs of live rock in the tank
3. Buy a refractometer and ditch the hydrometer
4. Get a test kit for ammonia

... and then let the tank cycle on its own without fish, and with all your live rock in there to start with. After the ammonia and nitrite levels are at 0.0, THEN add livestock - but only at a rate of 1 fish per month.

And hopefully there's another LFS near you that is truly interested in helping you set up a successful tank.
 
Ok thanks a lot for the help. Yeah the PH test kit is also for the saltwater. i took the damsel out today, so that should be good. added some more live rock. i still only have about 10-15 lbs in there. is my ph too high still? also if the tank has been cycling with LR shouldnt the nitrites be a little lower like a .25 or something? and is a 5-10 nitrate suffecient, or does it need to be higher?

thank you again
 
I wouldn't worry about pH until your cycle is over. It will swing all over during the cycle. It should settle down after your water changes at the end of the cycle.

Nitrites will vary depending on how much ammonia was there. If you had high amounts of ammonia, you'll have high amounts of nitrites. Whether you cycled with live rock or fish or a cocktail shrimp, the amount of nitrites is really unpredictable.

5-10ppm nitrates sounds about right for nearing the end of a cycle. There is no "sufficient" amount. Your tank doesn't need nitrates to cycle - it's just the byproduct. Once the cycle is over, you'll want to do water changes to get those nitrates as close to 0.0 as you can.
 
Hi Ben,

When I first started I did A lot of reading before I bought anything. Seems like you went out and started buying stuff to put in your tank before even getting a test kit. What I learned from getting "advice" from LFS is that they tend to give you "advice" that makes them more money. Try not to rush into things. (i know its hard, my tank just finished cycling and its really hard to hold back lol)

I walked into a BigAls and they told me I "need" this and that and I "have" to have this and that. What they tell you may be something that works, but often there are better and cheaper choices.

Being a beginner myself... Here are some links that might help you

Saltwater Aquarium and Saltwater Fish Beginner's Guide - Aquarium Guide
(a lot of links to very useful info)

Hope this helps with all your cycling questions... Ph may change during what time of day cuz of the lighting.

Newbies, a little something on cycling/breaking in a new reef tank. - Reef Sanctuary

Nitrogen Cycle

(some stuff on cycling)

I wouldn't add anything else until you are sure you are done cycling. Every time you add something it does a mini cycle.

If you are unsure of advice from LFS always come back here and ask. The guys (and gals) are amazing and very nice.

HTH
 
Hi Ben,

When I first started I did A lot of reading before I bought anything. Seems like you went out and started buying stuff to put in your tank before even getting a test kit. What I learned from getting "advice" from LFS is that they tend to give you "advice" that makes them more money. Try not to rush into things. (i know its hard, my tank just finished cycling and its really hard to hold back lol)

I walked into a BigAls and they told me I "need" this and that and I "have" to have this and that. What they tell you may be something that works, but often there are better and cheaper choices.

Being a beginner myself... Here are some links that might help you

Saltwater Aquarium and Saltwater Fish Beginner's Guide - Aquarium Guide
(a lot of links to very useful info)

Hope this helps with all your cycling questions... Ph may change during what time of day cuz of the lighting.

Newbies, a little something on cycling/breaking in a new reef tank. - Reef Sanctuary

Nitrogen Cycle

(some stuff on cycling)

I wouldn't add anything else until you are sure you are done cycling. Every time you add something it does a mini cycle.

If you are unsure of advice from LFS always come back here and ask. The guys (and gals) are amazing and very nice.

HTH

hey thanks for the advice. Haha no i didnt just go out and buy things and throw it in. I had test kits but they were defective. I just went out and baught a master test kit from aquarium pharmicuticals. very good. my tank is perfect now. readings are great. I got this filtered ocean water and it made everything just right! Been testing it for a few days now and its all reading good! Thanks for the links anyways.
 
Back
Top Bottom