Am i jumping the gun?

[Criptix]

So I could just put the cleaner shrimp in with the qt fish or just put them in the dt,right?

 

[huma-huma]

just drip acclimate the inverts and put into dt. if you want to qt, simply drip acclimiate to the qt and then place in there.

 

[Callen]

A word of advice on the QT: make sure it is cycled! Sometimes the " instant QT" still has to cycle. I did mine w water from my DT and a new sponge filter. Sadly, I lost every fish except for one blue damsel and I'm convinced that it is because the QT didn't have enough beneficial bacteria. After you get that filter media seeded let the QT tank run for a while. Test it just like your DT that you are setting up.

Another thing I learned is that you need to keep an ammonia source going in your DT. The discussion above reminded me of this. Don't want you to think that once you make that goal of processing 4ppm in 24 hours and get your tank fully cycled that you can just stop w the ammonia. Those 2 months or so while you get fish for Christmas and go through QT, you will need to keep feeding the bacteria in your DT or they will die off. When my DT had to lie fallow because of ich, I had no fish in it, but still put food in every few days to keep the bacteria happy.

 

[MacDracor]

A word of advice on the QT: make sure it is cycled! Sometimes the " instant QT" still has to cycle. I did mine w water from my DT and a new sponge filter. Sadly, I lost every fish except for one blue damsel and I'm convinced that it is because the QT didn't have enough beneficial bacteria. After you get that filter media seeded let the QT tank run for a while. Test it just like your DT that you are setting up. Another thing I learned is that you need to keep an ammonia source going in your DT. The discussion above reminded me of this. Don't want you to think that once you make that goal of processing 4ppm in 24 hours and get your tank fully cycled that you can just stop w the ammonia. Those 2 months or so while you get fish for Christmas and go through QT, you will need to keep feeding the bacteria in your DT or they will die off. When my DT had to lie fallow because of ich, I had no fish in it, but still put food in every few days to keep the bacteria happy.

Your qt wasn't cycled because you used old tank water and a new sponge filter. I know, I know, someone told you that's how to do an instant cycle, but it's backwards. The nitrifying bacteria that colonize our tanks for biological filtration are strictly surface adhering species. They live on the rocks, on the grains of sand, stuck to the side of the tank walls, but not free floating in the water. By using old tank water, you transferred almost zero ammonia eating bacteria.
For the instant cycle to work, you can use brand new saltwater, but you must use a biological medium with high surface area (sponge, filter floss, live rock) that has already been in a cycled tank. But like Callen said, always test first!

As for an ammonia source in the empty display tank... Yes and no. If the tank will be lying fallow (fishless) for upwards of six months, then the bacteria will need sustenance. However, in the short term (like a month for quarantine) they will be just fine. In fact, they are capable of lying completely dormant and almost inert for several weeks. Once you've built a bacterial colony capable of going from 4 ppm ammonia to zero in 24 hours, the time spent quarantining new fish should not harm the cycle. If you wish to test this, try the ammonia dosing after two weeks without any. The bacteria will wake up and convert it.
But like Callen said, if a tank is lying fallow long enough to kill ich, it will need food.

 

[Criptix]

A word of advice on the QT: make sure it is cycled! Sometimes the " instant QT" still has to cycle. I did mine w water from my DT and a new sponge filter. Sadly, I lost every fish except for one blue damsel and I'm convinced that it is because the QT didn't have enough beneficial bacteria. After you get that filter media seeded let the QT tank run for a while. Test it just like your DT that you are setting up.

Another thing I learned is that you need to keep an ammonia source going in your DT. The discussion above reminded me of this. Don't want you to think that once you make that goal of processing 4ppm in 24 hours and get your tank fully cycled that you can just stop w the ammonia. Those 2 months or so while you get fish for Christmas and go through QT, you will need to keep feeding the bacteria in your DT or they will die off. When my DT had to lie fallow because of ich, I had no fish in it, but still put food in every few days to keep the bacteria happy.

Your qt wasn't cycled because you used old tank water and a new sponge filter. I know, I know, someone told you that's how to do an instant cycle, but it's backwards. The nitrifying bacteria that colonize our tanks for biological filtration are strictly surface adhering species. They live on the rocks, on the grains of sand, stuck to the side of the tank walls, but not free floating in the water. By using old tank water, you transferred almost zero ammonia eating bacteria.
For the instant cycle to work, you can use brand new saltwater, but you must use a biological medium with high surface area (sponge, filter floss, live rock) that has already been in a cycled tank. But like Callen said, always test first!

As for an ammonia source in the empty display tank... Yes and no. If the tank will be lying fallow (fishless) for upwards of six months, then the bacteria will need sustenance. However, in the short term (like a month for quarantine) they will be just fine. In fact, they are capable of lying completely dormant and almost inert for several weeks. Once you've built a bacterial colony capable of going from 4 ppm ammonia to zero in 24 hours, the time spent quarantining new fish should not harm the cycle. If you wish to test this, try the ammonia dosing after two weeks without any. The bacteria will wake up and convert it.
But like Callen said, if a tank is lying fallow long enough to kill ich, it will need food.

Thanks for the advice.I was beginning to doubt the whole using just dt tank water with seeded bio filtration but it was only because the trates in my tank are rising quickly now.I figured even if I did half new and dt water the trates still might be a little high.I tested this morning after adding 3ppm of ammonia yesterday and I have no ammonia but .25 ppm of nitites so I added half of yesterday's dose just to see what it will test tomorrow.
My plans to have a fish by Christmas have turned to tax season again not because of the cha-ching factor.I suppose if I were antsy I could go to the lfs store who sells fish with rats but...common sense and research tells me patience is a virtue and will save me time and $$$ in the end.
As for the qt, my plan is to let the bio filtration seed fill up my tank with fresh saltwater instead of dt water test and go from there if I need an ammonia source I will add one which I probably will.
I had a question about the API sw test kit,When I test it is always .something for the ammonia,trites and trates instead of for example 5ppm. my question is is the point something=5ppm or have I been getting my 45 cycled for a single fish with barely any bioload?Does this make sense?The only reason I ask is my chart has a 5ppm and i have never gotten that color.I followed the directions 1 drp per gal=2ppm of ammonia but i am beginning to wonder if they were way off on their calculations...if so its a good thing I have no fish
Here is the chart for reference:

 

[huma-huma]

id say no. if you are reading .5 ammonia for instance, that would be .5 ppm. atleast thats the way im reading it.

 

[Criptix]

What can I do to rectify this?I have no clue how many drops to add to get the 4ppm.i need my tank to b able to handle a hefty amount of bioload especially if i want to qt 6 fish at once in a 10g. Would it be to late to do the shrimp method?I also have tons of betta food that my Gilbert won't touch.The thing about the fish food is won't it create a mess on the bottom of my tank?

 

[Criptix]

For records

Tested ammonia and it was .5 so i added 82 more drops on top of the 27 I put in at 10am. Will test ammonia again at 2 before I go to work.

 

[huma-huma]

you could prob still do the shrimp method but why not just adjust the ammonia amount as needed? i dont really think you need to get an even 4 ppm to simulate the bioload. heck i dont even know if anyone can actually measure the bioload from fish. just gradually increase the ammoina dosage.

 

[Criptix]

Okay probably for the best don't want to shock the bb.I will test at 2 still and see where I am.Thanks Huma-Huma!

 

[huma-huma]

np!! good luck!

 

[Criptix]

12-4-13 readings and question about netting

Ammo-.5
trites-5
Trates-80
PH-7.8
Not adding ammo.don't want to harm BB.
I was reading a post about glass tops and now i have question.Will hoods trap the heat and the oxygen just like the glass tops?I noticed this morning(Well I have noticed it before but didn't think much about.),that the surface water was pretty warm but as i had the lid open while testing params that it cooled quickly.I found this: Tenax 3 ft. x 15 ft. Black Hardware Net-751397 at The Home Depot
would this work or are the holes to big?i was looking at it anyway because on Callen's thread they were talking about jumpers and carpet surfing and netting was the solution but I was just planning on putting it under my hood not using it by its self because I needed a place for the lights.Any thoughts?

 

[Callen]

Hey Crip: I took a look at the black net and it looks good. I couldn't tell from the description what size the holes are. Just know that the egg crate holes are 1/2 inch square and my gobies jumped through that. Maybe they just had good aim, or they were just persistent..who knows?!

I think the net would be fine with the hood..but wouldn't the hood keep everyone inside without the net? Jumpers could still catch some air...but the walls of the hood would keep them contained?

As to temp regulation I would venture to say that any completely closed system, especially one with the lights contained inside (like a hood) would trap heat in and reduce the air flow. You will probably have to account for that when setting the temp on your heater. I would also think air flow would be better with a hood than with a glass top, given there is more space above the tank. I dont have a hood, but dont they have an open area at the top back? IF so, that would allow circulation of fresh air. I would think that combined with powerheads aimed at the surface of the water would help with the oxygenization.

@Mac: Thanks for the additional information on ammonia, bacteria, in QT and DT..I dont want to put bad info out there and always want to help others and learn as I go. I'm already seeding my next sponge filter in my sump so I can get ready for my next round of fish!

 

[Criptix]

12-6-13

Your qt wasn't cycled because you used old tank water and a new sponge filter. I know, I know, someone told you that's how to do an instant cycle, but it's backwards. The nitrifying bacteria that colonize our tanks for biological filtration are strictly surface adhering species. They live on the rocks, on the grains of sand, stuck to the side of the tank walls, but not free floating in the water. By using old tank water, you transferred almost zero ammonia eating bacteria.
For the instant cycle to work, you can use brand new saltwater, but you must use a biological medium with high surface area (sponge, filter floss, live rock) that has already been in a cycled tank. But like Callen said, always test first!

As for an ammonia source in the empty display tank... Yes and no. If the tank will be lying fallow (fishless) for upwards of six months, then the bacteria will need sustenance. However, in the short term (like a month for quarantine) they will be just fine. In fact, they are capable of lying completely dormant and almost inert for several weeks. Once you've built a bacterial colony capable of going from 4 ppm ammonia to zero in 24 hours, the time spent quarantining new fish should not harm the cycle. If you wish to test this, try the ammonia dosing after two weeks without any. The bacteria will wake up and convert it.
But like Callen said, if a tank is lying fallow long enough to kill ich, it will need food.

Hey Crip: I took a look at the black net and it looks good. I couldn't tell from the description what size the holes are. Just know that the egg crate holes are 1/2 inch square and my gobies jumped through that. Maybe they just had good aim, or they were just persistent..who knows?!

I think the net would be fine with the hood..but wouldn't the hood keep everyone inside without the net? Jumpers could still catch some air...but the walls of the hood would keep them contained?

As to temp regulation I would venture to say that any completely closed system, especially one with the lights contained inside (like a hood) would trap heat in and reduce the air flow. You will probably have to account for that when setting the temp on your heater. I would also think air flow would be better with a hood than with a glass top, given there is more space above the tank. I dont have a hood, but dont they have an open area at the top back? IF so, that would allow circulation of fresh air. I would think that combined with powerheads aimed at the surface of the water would help with the oxygenization.

@Mac: Thanks for the additional information on ammonia, bacteria, in QT and DT..I dont want to put bad info out there and always want to help others and learn as I go. I'm already seeding my next sponge filter in my sump so I can get ready for my next round of fish!

Thanks Mac and Callen!That puts my mind at ease.
I tested today and Ammo and Trites were both 0 and Trates were between 80-160ppm. I couldn't test yesterday was not home so because I don't know what my reading were I added 109 drops again today.We will see what happens.

 

[Callen]

sounds like you're there You should know before the weekend is over!

 

[Criptix]

12-7-13

Ammo-.5
Trite-5
Trate-160
Hopefully I didn't shock the BB...Its a good thing I am doing the fishless cycle.

 

[Criptix]

12-11-13

Ammo-0
trite-0
ph 8.8
Added Coralline plates on Mon. and 54 drops of ammonia.I am sure the rise in ph in due to adding 4 plates of coralline. My question is will the Ph go down on its own?

 

[huma-huma]

it should stabilize somewhere. now where it stabilizes at is another story lol

 

[Criptix]

12/12/13-question about fish food

Ammo-0
trite-0
Added 29 drops of ammo
I looked at fish food yesterday and I was curious what do you feed your fish?i found San Francisco Bay Frozen Saltwater Multi-Pack and Cyclops and Ocean Nutrition Prime Reef Frozen Food.What are some good brands?What do you look for in a good fish food?

 

[Criptix]

12/13/13

Ammo-0
Trite-0
A little at a time.