Auto topoff setup documented (w/pics)

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They sell them at target. I sent you a PM. Let me know if you'd like some exact measurements or pics.

Jim
 
Hey put a timer after your flost switch and just let it rum for a couple of minutes so that the waterlevel is about a 1/4 inch or so above the switchpoint and so the powerhead dosent have to start all the time.
 
Yeah, I was planning on doing that this week. the top off PH really only needs to run 2 times a day.

Thanks for the advice.

Jim
 
Thanks for the information Jim. I sent you a PM response.
 
I understand the exactness that the float switch gives, but why not cut out the $60.00 switch? Just use one of the more expensive (digital) timers that would allow you to run the ph for as little as a minute every day or every other day.

I have to add a half gallon every day and I do not need a float to tell me that. If I let the ph run for a minute every day, wouldn't it accomplish the same thing? Any thoughts?[/i]
 
Jim,

I'd love some specs/documentation on your fuge as well. It looks like it would fit very nicely in the spare room in my tank stand. I'm particularly interested in how you integrated into your system with a wet/dry. I thought it was a one or the other thing (not very good at thinking out of the box on this whole aquarium thing yet) and was trying to figure out how to get one in my system. How many gallons is your fuge?
 
phishead said:
I understand the exactness that the float switch gives, but why not cut out the $60.00 switch? Just use one of the more expensive (digital) timers that would allow you to run the ph for as little as a minute every day or every other day.

I have to add a half gallon every day and I do not need a float to tell me that. If I let the ph run for a minute every day, wouldn't it accomplish the same thing? Any thoughts?[/i]

I understand your thinking. I setup a homemade top off system first, a drip syphon. I was inconsistant but kinda worked. More of a pain in the neck though. You could setup a timer for 1 min if you used a small ph, it would work well i think. one benefit about the float is it will keep the SG consistant. not a big issue on a large tank, but may be on a smaller one, otherwise, i would think it'd work fine.

Jim
 
Phyl,

Here goes....
Measurements for my fuge container are 12L x 9W x 12H. I don't know how many gallons it is. Not many, but it appears enough to keep nitrates at 0 (love to have a bit bigger one, but not enough space).

Below are some pics. I basically run a small powerhead in my sump with some tubing over it, it pumps water into the fuge via a small hole in the top of the lid. the water is returned into the sump by gravity. I drilled 2 holes and added 2 bulkheads on the side of the fuge to return the water. One is placed a bit higher than the other and works as a backup in case the lower one clogs up. The flow is minimal in the fuge, but it appears to be just enough. Let me know if you have any questions.

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Phishead said...
I have to add a half gallon every day and I do not need a float to tell me that. If I let the ph run for a minute every day, wouldn't it accomplish the same thing? Any thoughts?

I ran this way for quite a while actually. What I learned is that evaporation isn't as consistent as I would like. I guess that it is subject to humidity and other environmental variables. It works, it is sort of cheaper..but it is less accurate.

BTW, by running the PH through an irrigation dripper I would have to run the PH LONGER in order to pump that 1/2 gallon. This enabled me to have more control with the timer. I think I was running the pump for about 8-10 hours per day so I could adjust the pump times by the minute.
 
How many GPH is the "small" pump that you're using? This looks great. I just passed up some macro last night because I didn't have a good place for it. I'll have to get this setup and then go back for some. Also how many watts and what kind of light is that on top of it?

Thanks!
 
Thanks for all the info on the Fuge! I picked up the exact same container you have at Target today for $3.99. It fits perfect in the limited amount of space I had left under my tank.

I have had my top off pump run dry a few times too but it is still chugging. I just need to figure out a way to feed my top off from my RO automatically.
Easy enough... You'll need a Kent float valve ($15) , some 1/4" tubing ($2), and some 1/4" push-to-connect fittings ($2-$5).

Place the float valve in the bucket used to supply water for the top-off system (you'll need to drill a 5/8" hole in the bucket to install the Kent float valve) run the tubing back to the RO bucket/container that collects your "purified" water. Use a push-to-connect 1/4" fitting (1/4" NPT/PTC, might add some expoy to secure the fitting) on the RO side, add a in-line push-to-connect 1/4" valve somewhere for maintenance and you're all set.

Keep in mind, we're talking gravity here. You'll need to have the RO bucket/container elevated higher than the auto top-off bucket.

HTH :D
 
This is a great thread! :D Keep it up, learning lots here!

PS. A little off topic, but i read somewhere that you could use a floodlight of some sort, like from HD and just clip it above your fuge, and that would be good enough. Any comment on that?
 
A little off topic, but i read somewhere that you could use a floodlight of some sort, like from HD and just clip it above your fuge, and that would be good enough. Any comment on that?
I am wondering the exact same thing! Hopefully someone can comment on this.

The Aqualight JamesR is using, while not expensive is around $25-$30. Of course, he is getting 18 watts of PC light out of it. Figure the container is around 5 to 5 1/2 gallons empy - that's over 3.5 wpg!

I've read but have not confirmed from anyone you don't need much light to grow macro. The only thing I am wondering... if using a "flood" light from HD or Lowes is the heat it would generate. Since those bulbs are usually 100+ watts. Just thinking out loud though.... :D
 
I have used a 65 watt grow bulb from HD and currently use a 19 watt mogul socket PC bulb from HD(6500K)

Some Lights of America bulbs are 6500K and are good for fuges. It really does not take anything special. You might get more nuisance algae with a yellower bulb but I have not had any problems. My fuge is in a 25 gal rubbermaid and has about 15 gal of water volume. I grow most chaeto but I have some different types of caulerpa as well. It has been up for about 9 months. 6500k is good for corals so it should be fine for plants.

The mini-fuge on my 10 gal does not have a light at all. It just gets some light bleed off from thecanopy.

There is a BIG thread on RC in the DIY forum and I think there has been some threads here as well.
 
I personally would use two float switches to control the water flowing in. The lower one would contol turning the pump on and once the upper switch is activated, the pump would turn off. This would keep the pump from running many times a day. You could still set it up with a dripper if you wanted. But I would think that with a dripper you could just have it run 24 hours a day anyways and have it only controlled by an upper limit switch. Just a thought.


Jim
 
yaksplat said:
I personally would use two float switches to control the water flowing in. The lower one would contol turning the pump on and once the upper switch is activated, the pump would turn off. This would keep the pump from running many times a day.

I don't know how you would wire the lower float to kick on when the water drops, and then not kick off when it returns.
 
Wow, i gotta show this to my husband! We rarely go away longer than overnight, but when we do, that would be a nice peace of mind. More kudos for u!
 
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