going to start a 300gl need help with what i should get

[fast94tracer]

so far this is my list without make and model of items because those are to be determined

1.)300gal tank, stand, canopy $1200 glass $500 more for acrylic
2.)use current 55gal as sump wit small refugium $100 for supplies to convert to sump
3.)return pump $150
4.)skimmer $200
5.)ro/di system $200
5.)m/h lighting home built $350
6.)sand $500
7.)live rock $1200
8.)overflow $200
9.)piping $50

that is what i have so far and am wondering if i need anything else

thanks

 

[TCTFish]

that is what i have so far and am wondering if i need anything else

A QT set up.

 

[ezy33]

Test kit?

 

[TCTFish]

Oh...yes...the test kits...good call. Make sure to include calcium and alkalinity test kits along with the usual ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH kits considering this will be a reef system and don't forget the hydrometer. Trust me, with all the other stuff, it's really easy to miss the obvious...LOL. I'm much guilty of that one myself

A system that big, you could benefit from having a log book to keep track of test results and additives that go into the tank. Makes for easier troubleshooting should there be a problem.

Also something to highly consider with that kind of investment...a chiller, depending on where you live. If you have fairly hot summers, it will save your tank. Also fans built into the canopy will help.

I know someone with a 300 gallon reef. Gorgeous tank!! Have fun. I know I'd be in my glory with a tank that big.

 

[fast94tracer]

yeah i look over the little things quite often myself which is the reason i posted this thread

im still debating weather to get the glass or acrylic tank


a tank like this has been a dream for me and since i am about to run into about 5k i thought i would give it a go

the dimension of the tank is 96x30x24

the reason i didnt add a qt setup is that i have 3- 10 gal tanks and a 20gal long from my fresh water days

 

[Lance M.]

Is it going to be a reef? If so then it's going to be more then $350 for the MH lighting system, unless you can get the ballasts and other parts really really cheap. The tank is 8 feet long so that will be at least 4, if you dont have overlap. So just the bulbs will be around $350 or more.

Do you have?

Refractometer

A 55 gallon trash can or bigger to mix your RO/DI water in.

 

[Innovator]

I prefer acrylic due to weight, strength, and clarity. They do scratch easier than glass, but at least they can be buffed out easily unlike glass.

You would be better off using a 100g as a sump and using your 55g as a refugium. You also might want to think about constructing a closed loop for optimal flow. Depending on your climate, a chiller should be a consideration. To save on lighting, you can construct a reef flat that drops off into deeper waters or construct two patch reefs where lighting can be directed over the specific area of focus and allow residual light to blend in.

 

[TCTFish]

Now for an opposing view to acrylic...always helps to have both sides...

Acrylics are great for everything Innovator mentioned without a doubt, but what a bummer to get scratches on the inside where you'd need to drain the tank completely to buff out. Anyone I know with large reef tanks all have glass for that very reason.

Too bad there isn't a way to combat that little, but monsterous problem when it happens. Acrylic tanks look very nice without the seams most associated with glass tanks and make wonderful show tanks.

 

[Innovator]

Just an update on acrylic work, you can indeed buff scratches in the water effectively whether it is a fully set up reef tank or not. I have personally done so.

 

[TCTFish]

Interesting. Is there a new product available that's safe to use in the water with fish and inverts or a special technique? Please do share

 

[fast94tracer]

well i will be going glass for the tank as it will be on a concrete foundation and the fact i want to save 500 dollars
as for the sump i will only do what i can afford and thats using my 55 but when i get more money i will add the largest tank i can fit under the tank

and for lighting i am going to be doing one 400w over the reef part that will be on one side and two-three 250w over the rest of the tank or maybe vho or pc over the open water part of the tank

 

[Innovator]

I'll have to find the name of the company we worked with, but it is up for review by ReefKeeping Magazine I believe. As with most retail acrylic buffering systems, they cater to minor blemishes, which is why a solution is packaged in order to keep the acrylic from hazing. The system we used involved various grit sizes and is designed to work underwater without solutions. The system also works out of the water; however, the surface must remain wet (we used spray bottles with water). The technique is fairly simple by countering the direction of the scratch with each grit size. For example, if there is a scratch extending upwards you would take a starter grit and rub the scratch from side to side until the scratch is no more. You would then take the next stage grit (finer grit) and rub opposite of the last direction (so up and down) and continue to change grits and directions until buffed. Essentially, you are making more scratches to get rid of the scratches. There are no buffering solutions needed because buffering grits are available. For large tanks, such as at my work, we used underwater air powered tools to apply the final buffer; however, that was used on a 10,000g+ displays and is not required for hobby tanks.

 

[TCTFish]

and for lighting i am going to be doing one 400w over the reef part that will be on one side and two-three 250w over the rest of the tank or maybe vho or pc over the open water part of the tank

Ah...a partial reef...very nice. You can really have a diverse population of all sorts of things in there, especially coral. What corals are you most interested in?

My favorites are the deep reef corals...gorgonias, carnations, chillis, etc. Someday I'd like to set up a 120 gallon deep reef and maybe try a crack at breeding black capped basslets. That would be sweeeeeet.

Innovator...that sounds really cool. Definitely something to keep an eye out for. Thanks for the info.

 

[fast94tracer]

the reason i want to do a partial reef is so i can have a stingray i find them to be very fasinating

 

[TCTFish]

Stingrays are wonderful creatures, however many of them are protected under federal law and possibly international law on some. Definitely check laws on the species you plan to obtain and double check conservation status.

Also note...a 300 gallon tank WILL become way too small. This is an animal that really needs their space to do well in captivity just like any other shark. I'd recommend nothing less than a 1000 gallons for a marine ray.

 

[fast94tracer]

well it will be a california ray and my lfs sells them
and hey in the future you never know i may go with a 1000gal well lets say i hope i do

as they say go big or go home

 

[Innovator]

Concerning Urobatis halleri, a standard 300g Tall would be plenty of room for even a pair (max out at 22" and 10" disc width), but my main concern is whether or not you know that these are cold water animals that require averages temperatures of 63F.

 

[fast94tracer]

i had a baby ray in my 55 and he was awsome i was able to hand feed him it was GREAT

 

[Innovator]

I'll have to find the name of the company we worked with, but it is up for review by ReefKeeping Magazine I believe. As with most retail acrylic buffering systems, they cater to minor blemishes, which is why a solution is packaged in order to keep the acrylic from hazing. The system we used involved various grit sizes and is designed to work underwater without solutions. The system also works out of the water; however, the surface must remain wet (we used spray bottles with water). The technique is fairly simple by countering the direction of the scratch with each grit size. For example, if there is a scratch extending upwards you would take a starter grit and rub the scratch from side to side until the scratch is no more. You would then take the next stage grit (finer grit) and rub opposite of the last direction (so up and down) and continue to change grits and directions until buffed. Essentially, you are making more scratches to get rid of the scratches. There are no buffering solutions needed because buffering grits are available. For large tanks, such as at my work, we used underwater air powered tools to apply the final buffer; however, that was used on a 10,000g+ displays and is not required for hobby tanks.

EverClear Transparency Refurbishing, Inc.

 

[Lance M.]

and hey in the future you never know i may go with a 1000gal well lets say i hope i do

as they say go big or go home

Exactly!