How much salt in the QT?

[reefbound]

Where should the salt level be in the QT... Its at 1021 now and the main is at 1024. Should they be the same or should I lower the QT(1021) and treat all incoming as if they have some disease until proven differently?

 

[austinsdad]

IMO, if you're not treating for a specific affliction with hypo, I can't imagine why you wouldn't want the two tanks the same. Seems as though it would help with the transition of the fish between the two.

 

[reefbound]

So keep the QT and main at the same levels until/unless there is a specific problem...makes sense.I thought keep it lower for the transition from LFS to my QT then when ready up the salt slowly to the level of my main or would that be to stressful?

 

[austinsdad]

Didn't think about considering the LFS salt level for that transition too. Maybe someone else can chime in there, but I'd still lean towards keeping my two tanks the same, and if there is a big dif between your LFS and your QT, adjust the acclimation period accordingly - longer.

 

[BillyZ]

You don't want to make your fish adjust to drastically different water twice. What I do, is I know ahead of time if I'm getting a fish so I have new salt water made ahead of time as if I were going to do a water change. I drain water from the Main into the QT replacing what was used in the main it with some of the new mixed water. After the fish have gone through the QT put the fish in a bucket with just enough water from the QT to be able to move. Then I use water from the main through a slow drop for the final acclimation for temp and chemistry. Then add the fish into the main and replace the water lost from the final acclimation with more fresh mixed water. This helps "freshen" the tank water for the new inhabitant, takes care of a water change which is always good, and help lessen the degree of change the fish undergoes from LFS to QT to Display.

JMO

 

[reefbound]

Its a big jump from my LFS 1020 to my main which is 1024 to 25. That works out to a long acclimation... Im just trying to make the transition easier for the fish not me...

 

[Brenden]

Good plan refbound. I also match my QT to the water from the store. I would leave it at 1.020 until you are sure the fish is ok then bring salinity up to the correct level.

 

[reefbound]

Good plan refbound. I also match my QT to the water from the store. I would leave it at 1.020 until you are sure the fish is ok then bring salinity up to the correct level.

That was my plan exactly... Now I have one more dilema. I have a Wet/dry filter hooked up the the QT with a mag 950...I was wondering if a millenium 1000 filter would be good enough for my QT setup... I would hate to waste a mag 950 to a copper treatment...What do you guys think?

 

[reefbound]

anyone? keep the wet/dry or will the millennium be ok?

 

[tecwzrd]

The millennium 1000 filter states that it acts as a wet/dry biological filter. Do you keep it on your main so the bacteria keeps up and then transfer to the QT? If not then it may not have enough to keep your fish happy\healthy. Doing additional pwc as needed should suffice though.

For filtration I use a H.O.T. Magnum 250 on the QT and a 350 on the main so I can just transfer a bio-wheel for instant bio-filtration.

My lfs keeps their tanks at 1.019 (I bring a refractometer) and my main is 1.025. I also keep my QT tank at 1.019 and over the 4 weeks of QT add small amounts of salt to the tap off to bring it up. I still drip acclimate my fish from the QT to the main as well for 2 hours even after matching the sg/ph/temp.

 

[reefbound]

I should have been more clear with the wet/dry filter... right now I have an Americal 150 w/bioballs and a mag 950 and I was wondering if the millennium 1000 would suffice so I didnt lose a magdrive to a copper treatment.

 

[tecwzrd]

I honestly can’t see why you would use a wet/dry with a Mag 950 doing 950 gph for biological filtration for a QT. How large is your QT? Are you quarantining sharks in a 100 gal tank? (joke I hope)

Most QT tanks are only 10-30 gal and the millennium 1000 filter pushing 85 gph seems fine. As I stated before if it’s on the main then it should have some bacteria to help with the bio-filtration if moved to the QT when acquiring a new fish. If not then you will have to do pwc to keep the nh3\no2\no3 levels respectable during the quarantine period.

 

[reefbound]

Why a 950? because it was there... anyway thats the only reason its there. I forgot I had the millennium 1000 filter and I hooked up the trickle with the mag 950... No the 1000 is not on the main so Im waiting for the QT to cycle (fishless).By the way its a 20 gal long.

"quarantining sharks "

 

[tecwzrd]

That must be one heck of a flow with that mag on a 20 gal. I would think 47+ turnover on that tank would be like getting stuck in a hurricane 24/7 for the fish. I thought the idea was to make it less stressful for them 8O

Cycling before adding the fish isn’t a bad idea but considering the short time span (3-4 weeks) that you keep them in there I’d rather just do pwc then have to wait yet another 4+ weeks before I was able to buy a fish.

 

[reefbound]

That must be one heck of a flow with that mag

actually it wasnt very turbulent at all, I had two outlets which slowed the force of the stream by 1/2 or more

Cycling before adding the fish isn’t a bad idea but considering the short time span (3-4 weeks) that you keep them in there I’d rather just do pwc then have to wait yet another 4+ weeks before I was able to buy a fish.

My whole plan is to keep the QT up and running for a while, My Flame Angel had a couple of spots appear and then disappear so in the time Im cycling ,Im also watching the main just in case something bad happens. Then every so often ill "feed" the QT to keep it alive. I dont want to break down the tank and set it back up again if I dont have to.(unless I get a bad one)

 

[tecwzrd]

My whole plan is to keep the QT up and running for a while, then every so often I’ll "feed" the QT to keep it alive. I don’t want to break down the tank and set it back up again if I don’t have to.(unless I get a bad one)

It is much easier to keep it running all the time and “feed” as needed Also I just read the new article on advancedaquarist.com ”Updating Marine Fish Acclimation Procedures: Part 1” and it also states that you should keep your QT at the same ph/sg level as your lfs and adjust to your main over time

One of the things that kind of surprised me in the article is that instead of “drip acclimating” new arrivals for 1-3 hours to match the QT it recommended that as soon as you open the bag (releasing co2) to quickly check the ph of the bag and “Then without delay move the fish to a holding tank with a temperature and pH that matches the water in the shipment bag as closely as possible.”

 

[reefbound]

just finished reading the article, Interesting, not that I disagree about matching parameters when using one LFS but i frequent three or four different ones and i think that would be a little frustrating to deal with, I have been using the "drip" method of acclimating which by the way is the best method for me, set it and forget it for a couple of hours... Now my QT is at 1020, I would lower it to 1019 but I think that would do it for me and then drip it...

edit: for years it was get fish home,float to match temp,add a small amount water every ten minutes for one hour then add fish... This has work great for years,then I hear about the drip method (what I use) now this... IMO, I think it a marketing ploy...think of whats the fastest way to match ph? Chemically = $ just my two cents.