I may be ready to take the plunge

[saberry]

OK, I have been doing fresh water for awhile now and things are going well on that front, but have always wanted a saltwater tank as well. I may be getting a great deal on a 75 gal that I think would be ideal for this purpose.

Before I delve off into the various intricate topics, I would like to find a source with sort of an overview - the basics so to speak. I want to get an idea of what type of set-up will work best for me. Will someone please point me in the right direction.

 

[saltcreep1025]

"the conscientious marine aquarist" by robert fenner

 

[MT79]

the conscientious marine aquarist" by robert fenner

Also simply start reading the "getting started", "beginners" threads in the sw forum here and on other sites. You can really learn alot this way.

 

[An t-iasg]

You can't go wrong with The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert Fenner. I also have The New Marine Aquarium, by Michael Paletta. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/saltbook.php

Fenner's book has (besides the basics) detailed descriptions of fish and invertibrates. Paletta's book has drawings of different ways to arrange live rock (a bonus for me, lol).

I'm still undecided on starting a SW tank, but I've enjoyed these books a lot. Also, just reading the SW forums is a big help, like MT79 said. Good luck!

 

[saberry]

I will definately pick up the book. In the mean time, here's a couple of SW newb questions:

1. What is "reef ready" tank?

2. What is the difference between live rock and reef?

3. If you begin with fish and live rock only, can you turn the tank into
reef later?

 

[darb2]

1 usually a reef ready tank includes better lghting, and overflow boxes or a drilled tank. I am not sure if they include a skimmer, but a reef needs one.
2 I think of a reef as the whole system. not just the sand, but the critters that live in the sand as well. Lr is the basis for your reef, it houses many things that make up the reef, algae for the fish and snails to eat etc.
3 yes. as long as you make livestock choices wisely. many fish will eat inverts. so if yu want to go for the reef, stay away from these species.
Good luck

 

[lando]

Great questions and welcome to the salty side of things! A tank that is "reef ready" has two big holes drilled in it for plumbing and generally has an internal overflow box. This is ideal for systems utilizing a sump for filtration. Basically, water is pumped out of your tank to your sump where it is filtered and skimmed and then it is pumped back into your tank for recycling. Think of it like a swilling pool and it's filter system. This is great for many reasons. First, the sump adds water volume to your system. They are usually 20-30 gals or more. The more water you are working with the more stable your total system is. Larger volume of water will be affected less by changes in water parameters. The sump also gives you a place to hide your equipment. Things like skimmers and heaters can go in the sump instead of hanging on the back of your tank. No more hang-on-back filters either. A sump also helps maintain a consistent water level in your display tank. As water evaporates, the level in sump falls, not the level in your tank.

the difference between Live Rock and Reef? LR is the foundation for a reef tank. It is beneficial as biological filtration for your tank and it adds structure to your tank. By adding various corals and inverts you can create a reef. If you think you would like to have a reef some day, choose your fish wisely now as a lot out there are not reef-safe. they will eat corals and inverts. Start off with as much LR as your can. The more the better. You will need 1.5-2 pounds per gal to get good biological filtration out of it. However, some is better then none. The good news is that this is a hobby that takes time so no need to be in a hurry. I hope this helped you and was not too confusing. Good luck and read, read, read! Lando

 

[saberry]

Yes, very helpful.

So, if I understand correctly, a tank does not have to be reef ready, it is just a convenience. I have read some people talking about having their tanks drilled; I assume this is for the same purpose. Am I correct that a reef tank does not have to be pre or post drilled?

 

[Atari]

Yep, you don't have to have it.. you can buy hang-on overflow boxes that don't require any drilling. That's if you even decide to have a sump. Again not a requirement.

The biggest expenses in my book are the lighting and the rock. You can't really skimp on the lighting if you want to go full reef, but you can use cheap rock as a base and then seed it with pieces of live rock.

 

[RocketSeason]

mine isn't drilled and I plan on adding inverts oneday. You can get a hang on the back overflow box which works the same as one that is internal. but if the hang-on-back fails to syphon correctly you could end up with water all over the floor.

You don't absolutely need a sump. but from what I hear, it makes things alot easier and alot more stable, so Its probibly a good Idea.

 

[saberry]

Am I likely to find "the conscientious marine aquarist" by robert fenner at the local Barnes and Nobel or should I just save myself a trip and get it from Amazon?

Also, even though I'm a LONG way from buying a flitration system, I wanted to see if I'm on the right track.

If I am understanding what I have read so far and based on my needs and experience level, I may go with something like an Eheim 2217 canister filter and a Red Sea's Prizm Pro protein skimmer. I like the Eheim just because I am using the 2215 right now on my 55gal fw.

 

[Atari]

Or you could use the Berlin method which involves just lots of live rock, a deep sand bed and heavy protein skimming.

Cannister filters tend to be avoided by lots of reefers because if you don't clean them very frequently then they end up throwing nitrates back into the system. And if you have lots of rock then you don't even need them.

From what I've read so far the favourite skimmer is the Aqua C Remora, although I have a Prism, since it's hard to get Remoras in the UK, and it does an adequate job.

 

[An t-iasg]

I didn't find The Conscientious Marine Aquarist in my Barnes & Noble. I bought it (and the other book I recommended in my other post) at Amazon.com, and got free shipping.

Also like I said in my other post, I'm still deciding about SW right now. (so someone with more experience should chime in about filtration, lol).

Most people use live rock and sand for filtration in a SW tank. Canister filters are generally not used in a SW tank as they are in FW. If you had one already, you could use it for water movement, and not worry about filling the media baskets. You need more water movement in a SW tank than in FW. You could use the canister in conjunction with a powerhead.

You could use the canister's baskets for running carbon too. But most people seem to use their carbon in the sump.

So if you already have a canister, it won't go to waste. But I don't know if I'd buy one specifically for SW if I didn't already have one.

I haven't looked at any skimmers, but the AquaC Remora gets lots of good reviews here.

 

[lando]

Another great option for getting started is to get the Emperor 400 hang on the back filter from Marineland. You can find ot on the internet for about $60. It is a very good system. I had it on my 40 gal. reef and it did a great job. IMO, it is the best backpack style filter available. it incoorperates mechanical, boilogical and chemical filtration all in one unit. Worth a look.

 

[saberry]

Another great option for getting started is to get the Emperor 400 hang on the back filter from Marineland. You can find ot on the internet for about $60. It is a very good system. I had it on my 40 gal. reef and it did a great job. IMO, it is the best backpack style filter available. it incoorperates mechanical, boilogical and chemical filtration all in one unit. Worth a look.

What other filtration do you use in conjunction with the Emporor?

 

[RocketSeason]

Cannister filters tend to be avoided by lots of reefers because if you don't clean them very frequently then they end up throwing nitrates back into the system. And if you have lots of rock then you don't even need them.
quote]

When a tank becomes well established, alot of people simply take out the carbon and run the canister filter without it. That way you keep the water flowing quite well and the extra hose and the volume of the canister increase the amount of water in your system.

Canister Filters are nice because they can handle a larger fish load then HOB filters. A good idea with SW because alot of people tend to overstock a SW tank. Just be sure to clean the filter on a regular basis.

If you decided to go with a canister style filter, get one that is rated for a tank at least twice your size. Bigger is always better.

I like canister filters, but thats just one mans opinion.

 

[srgetz]

Yes the emporer 400 is very good for the money, I use one for carbon. You just have to rinse the cartidges with fresh water every week or two. This prevents bacteria buildup in the media so it does not produce nitrates...or you could not rinse it and use it to suppliment your lr at the start. Just watch, they will make some nitrates, but this is not really an issue unless you want a reef tank. Nitrates can get pretty darn high before it is toxic to fish, say 80+.

 

[lando]

when I was using my Emperor 400 the only other filtration I was using was LS and LR. Kept everything in check. Amonia, nirites, nitrates where all at zero for the majority of the time.

 

[saberry]

Another question: In freshwater, people have mostly gotten away from using UG filters as they are not really necessary given current filter technology.

With DSB, is an undergravel or similar filter used?

 

[darb2]

some people use a ugf with cc. Most (me included)will advise against it. the ugf will not work with sand, it would be pulled through and not work. I think that the ugf traps detritus underneath and causes a rise in nitrates. I used to have on in my 30 gal, and had a constant battle with nitrates. I removed it, did a couple of large water changes, and the nitrates are much lowar and easier to control.