Just Starting Live/Base Rock Question

[Jayhawker518]

Hello all. New to the forum but not to aquariums. Like everyone else i have set up many freshwater tanks. Easy!
So on to salt water I have a 30 gal tank to start the new hobby.
I plan on using some live sand for my substrate and a combo live and base rock for the decor. I was looking at Marco rocks, and he has a 25 lb box of rocks and i have learned i will need more than this. Is there any point in buying the 25 lb of base rock and then the 12.5 of rubble rock to make up for it? Then buy another 10 or so lbs of live rock or just spring for 50 of the base rock and a little live rock?
Help me fish gods!
Slow and Steady is the way im heading. One more do you need a aerorato in a salt water tank? Thanks in advance.

 

[melosu58]

Welcome to AA

All you need to aerate your tank in SW is a PH pointed to the top to aggitate the surface. Just remember that water surface aggitation = aeration in the sw business. As far as the sand I would buy new sand and just seed it with a cup or two from your LFS sand. Your LR plan sounds OK. I`m going to move this to the getting started forum.

 

[MT79]

I'm not sure if this helps answer your question, but when mixing LR w/ base rock you want to use at least 30% LR to base. Using even more LR has the potential to increase the diversity of animals in the tank, and that will aid in the overall long-term health of the system. As far as aeration goes, the turnover of the tank(hourly gph of equipment relative to aquarium volume), along w/ good surface agitation as Melosu said will take care of gas exchange. HTH

 

[tecwzrd]

when mixing LR w/ base rock you want to use at least 30% LR to base.

Ditto, considering the small tank you really might want to consider 100% lr since it would only run about $50 more then buying base and "some" lr. It's $65 for 25 lbs of base but you can get 50 lbs of quality lr for $99-$120 so since you aren't trying to load up 200+ lbs of lr in a huge tank I'd go for all lr IMO. Also 50-60+ lbs of rock is about what you need for your 30 gal tank.

If looking for cheap live rock checkout intmarinefish.com or www.exoticfish.com
which has lr for as little as $2-$3 per lb shipped.

Couple of more places with quality lr:
www.liverocknreef.com
www.liveaquaria.com
www.tampabaysaltwater.com

 

[roka64]

WELCOME TO AA!!

Please do not cycle your tank with live animals.

I agree with the rest. I did buy from marcorocks, and am very pleased, BUT I bought 150Lbs of it. Depending on your finances, you can go either way, by using base/LR combo, or just LR.

 

[Jayhawker518]

Hey, Thanks for all the opinions. I think Im going to get a small amount of the base rock and then the live rock from those sites tecwzrd suggested.
Definitly wont cycle with Fish, ive read alot on here so far and realize this.
Trying to plan out all i need and then get it in pieces so i dont mess something up.

OK, aerator question, still slightly confused. I just need a PH meaning Powerhead correct and point it towards the top and that will be good enough? Im just doing a FLOWR tank not a reef so i wasnt sure what i needed for that.

Last thing, been searching a bunch can someone post me a link of a good "Start to End" and "What needed" for starting the salt tank. I have a good idea, but like to confirm what i think.
THANKS FOR THE WELCOME LOVE THIS PLACE!

 

[roka64]

just need a PH meaning Powerhead correct and point it towards the top and that will be good enough?

In SW, O2 exchange takes place via surface ripple. So you don't have to put a ph pointing directly at the surface. I have two on opposite ends of my tank, pointing at eachother, that seems to do the job.

Here is an Article http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=76139 that may answer your start up questions.

 

[tecwzrd]

Quoting from my Stock list and tips for maintaining your SW tank post (which has other recommendations as well)

The use of a power head to move your water is necessary with a SW tank and a tank turn over of 15-20 times for FO/FOWLR/REEF is good since all benefit from good current. I would get at least two. Point them upwards and at each other to create a slight ripple on the surface for good oxygen exchange and convulsing currents. If the PH doesn't come with a pre-filter/screen (plastic or sponge) then consider adding a sponge to keep fish/inverts/sand from getting sucked into it.

For 55 gal or less sized tanks the following power heads are good choices IME.
Maxi-Jet, Marineland Penguin 1140, & the Hagen AquaClear Powerhead

For a 30 gal I'd get two Maxi-jet 900 or AquaClear PowerHead 50. The Penguin 1140 is too powerful and the 660 is not enough IMO.

The point of the PH is to break the surface for oxygen exchange. Air stones also break the water's surface (when the bubbles pop) but because SW doesn't exchange oxygen as well as FW PH are recommended since the amount of air/air stones needed to properly break the surface would cloud the tank with tons of bubbles and is just not practical both aesthetically and due to the subsequent salt spray the heavy popping would cause.

 

[melosu58]

OK, aerator question, still slightly confused. I just need a PH meaning Powerhead correct and point it towards the top and that will be good enough?

This is correct. As far as what`s needed here is a thread by one of our mods.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=76139

 

[roka64]

LOL! We must have all been typing the response at the same time!

 

[melosu58]

Well Jayhawker you cant get any better service than that. LOL

 

[Jayhawker518]

Wow, can we talk about a great response.

Ill check those out and probably go with the two Maxi like suggested ive heard others talk about that as well.

I think Im on my way. One last thing. When i start cycling first with the water then throw some live rock and the substrate after. What type of water changes do i do when cycling anything?
Also since I live in an apartment the ro/di unit is a little of out of the question, but i can mix my tap water and salt check it and then add that right? Thanks you guys are the best!!!

 

[roka64]

O would add everything at once and start the cycle. If you use cured LR, from your LFS, you might see reduced cycling time, since the beneficial bacteria will already be in the rock (assuming you don't leave it out of water for too long). You don't need to do a PWC until the nitrItes are at 0 and your nitrAtes are spiked. If you are using your tap, make sure to use cold water. I premix mine for at least 24 hours (since your cycling your tank, I wouldn't worry about premixing). I would suggest you mix your salt and water and heater (I have found that it's hard to get a correct reading off a hydrometer with colder water), get it to the correct salinity and then add it to your tank. That should give you an idea of the salt/water ratio you will need.

 

[melosu58]

Is there any way you can go without tap water. Not a really good idea as so many bad things are in it. Walmart sells RO water. LFS sell RO/DI water.

 

[Jayhawker518]

Wal-Mart. Ok, I have no idea where to look at our Walmart, if i ask them for some RO water which i understand is Reverse Osmosis water, they will understand what im asking for? Any brand and how much?

One more. The two power heads, im going to get both of those i also have an HOB filter an emperor 280. This will all work out right?

The saltwater stuff is crazy. I love it

 

[roka64]

Is there any way you can go without tap water. Not a really good idea as so many bad things are in it. Walmart sells RO water. LFS sell RO/DI water.

That's a good point. I forgot to add that I am on well water. Thanks Mike!
Generally, if you have 1.5-2 Lbs of rock per gallon and run a skimmer, you don't need the filter. I like to run a canister filter, in the event I need to run carbon or other media.

 

[melosu58]

Jayhawker, it is a water machine that you put jugs up to. I think it is culligan at my walmart. Over where they sell water.

 

[tecwzrd]

Also since I live in an apartment the ro/di unit is a little of out of the question

Most of the RO/DI filters sold on Ebay either comes with a sink adapter or has an option to hook up to the kitchen sink so really RO/DI can be used in any home or apartment. You don't have to have a dedicated line for it, just hook it up as needed and store in a closet when you don't.

In the long run buying your own will be much cheaper/easier then hauling water from a store.

 

[melosu58]

In the long run buying your own will be much cheaper/easier then hauling water from a store.

Yes this is true. I spent 7 yrs lugging water and I have been so happy since I got my RO/DI unit 2 yrs ago. As Micah said you can hook it up in your sink and sit it in the sink so as not to have any water overflow problems.

 

[Jayhawker518]

Ok. Well this puts me on the right place. So let me get this all focused.

Im going to go buy some RO/DI water.
My HOB Emperor 280 is ok
2 PHs I need to buy for water flow.
About 25 lbs of base rock and then the rest Live rock will work.
Add it all at once.
Have a heater.
Cycle for a while.
Do i run normal water thru the tank, then add the salt test the salinity with my refratormeter than add the rest?
Thats about a good start right? Anything im missing