MTS - 40g Tiger Barb tank or saltwater tank?

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Ulrichsd

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Ok, just set up a 60g Malawi tank with Yellow Lab, Acei and Demasoni. Multi-tank syndrome has set in... :facepalm::fish2:

My first thought was to get a 40g with maybe 15 or so tiger barbs with a SAE, would be cool to have a schooling tank and I think they are pretty with the stripes. But, as this will be my last tank as my wife will draw the line I'm sure, I was wondering if I should give saltwater a try instead. I figured I would post this in the saltwater forum so you can talk me out of the barb tank and into doing saltwater! :lol:

If I do a saltwater tank, I'm thinking I would do 40 gallon FO or FOWLR, not reef. Here are some of the stocking options I was thinking:
Single or Pair of Ocellaris clownfish
Six Line Wrasse
Neon goby
Four Stripe Damselfish
A few snails and hermits or a small puffer (saddle valentini) if FO.

With a 40 g, I could maybe keep max 5-6 fish? I'm assuming the 1 inch rule doesn't really apply for saltwater... Any other options that would go well with a ocellaris? I also like the yellow tail damselfish, can they be kept single or do they have to be kept in groups?

I'm a little confused by the live rock concept, does it eliminate the need for bio filtration? I could just use a skimmer or something?

Thanks!
Scott
 
Not a SW keeper but here are my two cents:
Live rock will serve as the primary biofltration, especially with nitrate reduction. You could still use addition filtration if you want.
Be prepared to have access to RO water. Tap water in most if not all cases has substances not suitable for a SW setup.
 
I have to say, you seem pretty well prepared compared to most people who switch over too saltwater.

You're stocking list is pretty on point. However, I would skip any damsels because they are very aggressive.

The amount of fish all depends on each of the bioloads and filtration and size of each fish.

Quick question: Why are you staying away from reef? It's honestly it's not all that hardThe only thing it will require is just more intense lighting.

I would also skip the 6 line, they can be really aggressive too.

Some type of dwarf angel, like a cherub would be great for a FOWLR tank. Since there is a risk that they will nip on corals.

Live rock is your source of Biological filtration. You'll need 40lbs of Dry or Live rock, both will be come live during the cycle.
 
Thanks to both of you for the replies!

Macscale, I think it would be fun to do a reef tank, but it seems like to do it right is pretty expensive.

Also, I stopped in petco today and they said their $1 per gallon starts June 29th so maybe i could get a 55g.

Here's my estimated expense...
$55 - 55g
$120 - protein skimmer
$200- 20 lb live rock, 40 lb dry rock
$40 - 40 lb live sand
$150 - 6-8 fish
$60 - 2 koralia powerheads
$60 - hood/lighting

That's about $700. Am I way off? Anything missing? I feel like if I do a reef setup, I would have to upgrade the lighting and get a more expensive alternating current controller. Maybe I should go ahead and start saving up to do that though. :)

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The rock will be way cheaper. You can just buy it all base online where 50lbs is like $80. Maybe a piece or two of live to seed Coraline.

The skimmer will be more though. If you are going hob; it will be about $180.

In sump will mean plumbing and building a whole sump which will be a lot more.

For the Powerheads, you don't need an expensive alternating controller, but it is an added benefit. Koralias would do just fine. But, it would be better to go with Jebao WP-25. On amazon about $60, and they had a screw up in shipping with mine and I got two for the price of one. The wp-25 have controllers and are really great.
You would need to upgrade light, which would be about $185 based on current Tao Panel pricing.

You will also need to factor in buying quality test kits. Companies like Redsea and Salifert are more reliable then the API's.

The fish shouldn't cost that much, and I wouldn't be factoring that into the tank start up cost.
 
Here is my breakdown for reef.
Tank- $55
Skimmer- $180
Powerheads- $60
Heater- $40 (depending on where you live and where you keep your AC)
Lights: $185
Rock- $85 50lbs base
Sand- $40 50lbs (in my area at least)
Test kits: $75API master test kit, and then Calcium Alk Phosphate and Magnesium from Red Sea or Salifert.
Refractometer for salinity: $20-30
Total: $750 + tax.
Which is the same as your estimate for FOWLR?
 
Thanks for all the info, good to know the rock is less than expected. I'm ok waiting for it to become live rock.

After freshwater it is a little shocking to see the prices on some of these fish though ;) I would definitely stick to the cheaper end and I prefer farm raised so I don't feel like I am endangering a species...

I do have an api freshwater kit so I could just add the mg and phosphate kits.

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Yeah, the API freshwater are the same tests as the salt water.
In this hobby patience is key. As long as you keep up with your WC most should be fine.
 
I would stick with the 40. I like the extra width for aquascapping. 12" it is hard to do anything other then a pile of rocks. Just my .02
 
I would stick with the 40. I like the extra width for aquascapping. 12" it is hard to do anything other then a pile of rocks. Just my .02


Is it you're .02 cents or what you've heard? The 12" can make plenty interesting aquascape, and the 55 is better for the FOWLR type fish the OP is looking at. I have a 55 myself, and have never found aquascaping an issue.
 
Macscale, bduni50,

I'm guessing this is one of those personal preference things. On my 60g freshwater, I will honestly say that aquascaping a 24" height and 12" depth made it pretty difficult to stack anything over 12" and be stable without leaning things against the glass wall which makes me a little nervous.

I'm still deciding whether I'd want to do reef or FOWLR, but it seems like a lot of the stocking options between 40g and 55g are similar. For freshwater it seemed like a 4' 55g tank really opens up a lot of fish possibilities, but for saltwater seems to be more in the 100g+ range when you can get into surgeons and other bigger fish. I'm ok with that though since I want some of the smaller saltwater species anyway.

I was also wondering if the shorter 40g might be better for lighting for corals and stuff to if I were to go that route eventually...

Macscale, checked our your reef build thread and there is some good information, good pictures and some good info on the stand. I'd probably do a closed stand setup, but still helpful info. Didn't quite make through every post yet on the 23 pages :) but I'd see your tank/fish pictures, and your aquascaping on the 55g looks good...

Thanks again, I really appreciate all the info, there's so much to consider! Does Petco do the $1 per gallon sale on tanks over 55g :)
 
Nope think 55 is it. A 36" light will be cheaper then a 48" light
 
Petco $ per Gallon only has 10, 20g Long and Hug, 29, 40b, and 55.
It's good that you enjoyed reading it.

Lighting depends on what you choose to go with. Say if you were going Tao panel, you need two for a 55, but one on the 40. The 40 will have shadowing on the side though, not allowing for SPS and sometimes even LPS on the sides.
As long as you make sure you get a good fixture, then the corals you can keep in each tank won't be límites.
It really is a personal preference when it comes to 40 vs 55.
 
I will say this if you do a 40 or a 55. Still get you 20+ gallon tank like a 20 long or 29 for a diy sump. It's really not that hard and makes life easier down the road. There are tons of videos on YouTube.
 
Thanks Macscale and Bduni, appreciate the info.

If I add in a sump, an RO converter and fish, I'd be over a $1000 easy. If I'm going to spend that much, I'm thinking I might save up and consider a larger tank, maybe 120g. I'll just enjoy my African tank for now, the fish should be coming this week!

Thanks again!

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