new 46g reef tank being started

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fijiwigi

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need a little advice from my aquariumadvice professionals. I am going to start a reef tank in my 46g bow. I have never had a reef tank before only fowlr. I just recieved about 45 pounds of live fiji from DR Fosters & Smith yesterday which I am curing in my tank now. plus I already had about 10 pounds live rock from a seperate tank. all that I have for the tank now is a heater and 2 whisper power filters 30-60 that I had left over from my first freshwater tank that I am using while cycling the tank. I bought a 36" lunar aqualight a while back so I have adequate lighting. I still need to break my rocks into chunks to do some aquascaping I was sent 4 large pieces of live fiji about 10 pounds each. I want to order the skimmer filtration and maybe a wave maker. I also still need to add a substrate. I need to know a good place to order sugar fine white sand.(no silicates) I am debating now between ordering a fluval canister filter and a backpack skimmer. Or maybe just going with the cheaper refugium that includes the skimmer. And I know nothing about powerheads and wave makers. I did see a really cool bubble disk I thought about I like bubbles. Any advice would be awesome
 
Welcome to AquariumAdvice.com!!! :smilecolros: :smilecolros: :smilecolros:
Sounds like you are well on your way.
I just recieved about 45 pounds of live fiji from DR Fosters & Smith yesterday which I am curing in my tank now. plus I already had about 10 pounds live rock from a seperate tank.
Great, that is a good amount to start with. Cycling the tank with the uncured LR is a good plan.
I bought a 36" lunar aqualight a while back so I have adequate lighting.
Should be good enough for most softies, polyps and LPS corals. It will allow you to keep a fairly wide variety.
I want to order the skimmer filtration and maybe a wave maker.
A skimmer is always a GREAT idea. The wave maker is nice as well.
 
There is nothing technically wrong with a bubble disk. However, will make some salt creep issues as you go along. But if you like the bubbles, go for it!
 
If you want to keep those 2 whisper 30-60 powerfilters, you can modify them into refuges by pulling out all of the media and then filling them with lr rubble. I did this to my ten gallon with two whisper 10-20 powerfilters. You could also go further with it and add a little light over each of them to grow some macros, it would be perfect to tumble some chaeto.
 
Lance M. said:
If you want to keep those 2 whisper 30-60 powerfilters, you can modify them into refuges by pulling out all of the media and then filling them with lr rubble. I did this to my ten gallon with two whisper 10-20 powerfilters. You could also go further with it and add a little light over each of them to grow some macros, it would be perfect to tumble some chaeto.
Ok I don't know what chaeto is could you explain, and if I kept my power filters with live rock rubble only and added a protein skimmer would that cover all of my bases??? Is the live rock alone enough of a filter for my tank?? If I buy a skimmer and a wave maker would that make a great reef tank. Or should i improve upon that. I want to make sure I succeed at this its too expensive of a hobby to make a mistake>????
 
lr, proper flow, and a skimmer is all you need for filtration. There may be times when you need to run chemical filtration but it is generally not needed unless there is a problem. Some people here (including me) have a empty cannister filter on the tank for flow and have it so if needed you can put media in it and use it for chemical filtration.

Chaeto is a macroalgae and is good for nutrient export (nitrates, phosphates, etc.). Caulerpa is better but needs lighting 24/7 and regular pruning to prevent it from going sexual and causing lots of problems. A refugium is a place for pods to grow in solitude and if lighted it is also used to grow macroalgae for nutrient export.

A wave maker is not necessary but from what I've seen it is mainly personal preference. Though you do want one or two powerheads for movement and you could position them on opposite sides facing eachother or facing the front wall of the tank to create turbulence.

IME , no matter how much you research, the first tank you set up is always trial and error and the experience will help you setup a much better 2nd or 3rd or 4th.... tank lol
 
I am curios. with the 10k light I have in my lunar aqualight will it be enough to make my fiji live rock turn purple and look like most professional tanks. As far as I know I only need to add calcium iodine strontium. For a 46g should I add like 1 teaspoon of each after my weekly water change? (I usually change 15gallons of my 46gallons weekly) What about adding trace mineral supplements?? I am still a little iffy on the water chemistry for a reef tank verses a fowlr tank. And then I was going to order a beginner coral pack from dr fosters & smith. Do I attach the corals with an adhesive to my fiji rocks. If I wait a month before ordering the corals will that be enough time for my tank to establish?? Or should I add like 1 fish first before I add corals??
 
Typically, regular PWCs will replenish any depleted trace elements (it in the salt mix). I would not dose any of my tank unless I had the proper test kits....and I don't dose my tanks....
 
I would wait at least two months after your tank is completely cycled before adding corals, maybe longer.

Like roka64 said, you dont want to add anything you can't test for and pretty much all your elements/minerals will be replaced by doing your pwc. You should get ca and alk test kits.

What fish do you want? And what corals?
 
I don't really know what fish or corals I want really I just want to keep it simple yet impressive. anything colorful. I am using instant ocean salt mix. So what you are saying is there is enough calcium iodine and strontium currently in my water from my salt mix? I currently have a test tube kit that tests for amonnia, nitrite,nitrate,Ph. If I buy test kits for calcium and alkalinity will that complete my testing equipment or am I missing a test kit??? I really appreciate the help I am taking it slow and patient in hopes of being succussfull. And any suggestions on a good starter pack of corals for me would be appreciated. I would eventually like to get a clownfish and an anenome.
Also are there accurate test strips out there or is the test tube vials the only logical option. And what is a really accurate thermomoter. I have the stick on the glass kind and a submersable glass tube thermomoter. Do any of you use digital or what do you use for testing and thermomoters??
 
Lance M. said:
lr, proper flow, and a skimmer is all you need for filtration. There may be times when you need to run chemical filtration but it is generally not needed unless there is a problem. Some people here (including me) have a empty cannister filter on the tank for flow and have it so if needed you can put media in it and use it for chemical filtration.

Sounds like a good plan to me. As the others stated all you need is frequent PWC`s to take care of depleted trace elements. One of the few exceptions sinceyou are using IO might be calcium. Test for this to see if it needs to be added.
 
Ok it has been a few weeks since I put my fiji live rock in to cycle. I brushed the outside of the rocks with a soft toothbrush at the week 1 water change. And yesterday I did my 3rd 15 gallon water change 33% of tank. I have been lighting it with my coralife 10K about 4 hours per day. My Blue Actinic went out have to order a new one. I have noticed quite a bit of brownish hairy algae and my rocks are only about 5% purplish. What is the next step to getting the hairy algae to minimize some and getting the live rock to take on a more purplish color is there something i can do besides just patience and time. Also wondering right now I have live rock rubble and filter sponges in my whisper power filters. Should I take the sponges out they seem to just collect filth. And Should I buy chaeto to put in the filters is it something I can get at a lfs and what kind of lighting would I use to grow macro algae in my filter. Will this help to minimize the hair algae growth???
 
Ideally you want 1.5-2 pounds of LR per gallon capacity of the tank. You have plenty of LR now and could add base rock to make up the difference. Base rock is dry coral rock. It becomes live (hosting nitrifying bacteria) over time. I got a 50 pound case of it from thatfishplace.com for about $1.00 per pound. It was almost pure white but now you can't tell the difference from the other rock in the tank.

Your tank will go through several stages as it cycles and matures. Different diatom and algeal blooms will happen over the first 6 months - year. That 5% purple will become 10%, 20%, etc over time.

If your water parameters are coming in line you may want to think about adding a small clean up crew to start; some snails are a good choice.

You can add a Mg Magnesium test kit to round out your testing. On this forumn and others, Salifert test kits get high marks. ALL strip tests get very low marks.

Have you seen the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates spike and then come down to ZERO?

Drs. Foster and Smith sell small starter packs of soft corals -- http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/scateg.cfm?pCatId=751 I think they are a bit pricey but they put it all together for you.
 
I just tested my tank. The ammonnia level is at 0ppm Nitrites at 0ppm Nitrate level Is closer to the yellow 0ppm mark than the 5.0 orangish mark But not bright yellow like the chart pretty darn close and my PH level is 8.2 salinity is 1.025 I am pretty sure the main cycling of the live rock is pretty much complete. I am buying 30 pounds of sugar fine white marine sand from my lfs tommorrow that all they have and I will buy another 30 when they get more in stock. I think 60 pounds is enough for my 46 gallon bow it should give me a nice soft place to land my rocks. And I will probably add some base rock under my live rock to raise it up some and get it closer to the light for optimum growth.
 
cmor1701d said:
Have you seen the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates spike and then come down to ZERO?

This is the key question at the moment. Don't add any livestock until ammonia and nitrites levels have spiked and returned to zero.

Diatoms will look like a rusty film over your rocks and sand. They will show up towards the end of your cycle, most likely.

Don't worry about the purple at this point. The coralline algae will come, it just needs time and the proper conditions.
 
The last time I tested my tank was after 1 week of having the live rock in the tank to cure. When I tested it then the ammonia was between 1.0 and 2.0 ppm is this the spike we are talking about. This tank has was set up as fowlr before my fish got sick and died. I cleaned my tank extremely well and changed 95% of my water waited 1 month with it running empty(just salt water) than added 45 pounds of live rock to my current 8 pounds removed all the old crushed coral substrate and now replacing with sugar fine sand. I learned from my mistakes and hope to do it up right this time. I greatly appreciate any help. Any advice on my next step or 2 from this point would be extremely appreciated help. When you refer to diatoms could you explain a little more to me. My rocks do have a furry brownish greenish hairy coating in places and the majority of the white that was on my rocks at first is gone. I uploaded a couple of photos of my rocks :?
 
I only mentioned the diatoms because they're to be expected during/after a cycle. But they aren't furry - it looks more like rusty colored dust. Looking at your pictures, it looks like you have some diatoms, but it does look like you have some hair algae also. Can't tell if it's a fuzzy picture, or fuzzy algae!

Regarding your ammonia... yes - as long as you saw your ammonia go up, and if it's at zero now (along with your nitrites), then it sounds like you've completed your cycle. The presence of nitrates (the end product of it all) is also a good sign. The only reason I asked is because from your post, I couldn't tell if you'd seen any rise in ammonia or not.

Agree with cmore1701d... sounds like you're ready for some snails and crabs.
 
Have you checked at Home Depot or Lowes in the garden departmetn for sand. Playsand for a child's sandbox is what you are looking for. If you're in teh Eastern US and get lucky you may find some Carribean playsand which is aragonite.

The rock should sit onteh tank and sand should go around it. That prevents dead spots under the sand, and the possibility of a rock shifting and falling.
 
I have seen topics about sand at home depot being silicate based which as far as I know can be harmful to fish and some even beilieve it to be harmful to people. below is a link to an article I read. There is a alternative at the safesand.com website but it is even more expensive than the caribsea marine white sand.

http://urbanmamas.typepad.com/urbanmamas/2006/05/sandbox_sand_.html
 
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