New to saltwater advice (pics inside)

[20vturbo]

Hi, My friend decided that saltwater took too much time and gave me his tank. He claims to have about $600.00 of live rock in the tank (no clue if its an exaggeration or not) but it is a 40 gallon tank with two damsels (one died in less than 7 hours) in it so far. The temperature is 75-76 degrees, SG is between 1.020-1.021, and the salinity is about 28ppt. I am not sure what other measures there are to use to see what condition the tank is in. I also am not familiar with what type of filter/power head is being used and I think I could use some new lighting. Any help or advice would be great!! Thanks in advance!

oh and also there is the air tube that goes in the filter part. I am not sure if the air must go down in that hole or what because when it is down there it doesn't seem to be making bubbles??

 

[roka64]

WELCOME TO AA!!!

How old is the tank? LR is about $8-12.99 per Lbs....If I had to guess, you have about 20-maybe 30Lbs of LR in that tank. I would get a test kit and test your parameters.....Salinity si the amount of salt and the number should be around 1.020-1.024 maybe enve 1.025/6ish, but I think that is a little hig.
We need more specific info, like lighting, ps substrate (looks like CC), critters, water parameters and such...

 

[20vturbo]

Thanks for the welcome! About all I know is the Si is about 1.020-1.021, I have crushed coral in the bottom and I bought one "coral" light at Petco, the other light is just a regular bulb, I think. How would I measure the rest of the stuff? The only place that is close it the Petco. Thanks!

 

[tecwzrd]

Welcome to AA

You will need a test kit to measure the basics like ph/nh3/no2/no3. I'd buy the Saltwater Master Liquid Test Kit from drsfostersmith.com considering Petco charges twice as much.

Hard to say if the lr is worth $600 but it looks like you have around 40+ lbs to me. If the tanks been running for 6+ months with the two fish in it then it's probably cycled already.

This media needs to be rinsed out in old SW at least once a month to keep waste from building up.

If keeping this FOWLR then the lighting you have is fine. You will need stronger lighting if you want to make this a reef tank.

Have you had FW tanks before?

 

[melosu58]

I agree that step No. 1 would be to get a water test kit and post your results. This will give us a good indication where your tank is at and will help us to make a wise decision. So if you can post these results. Welcome to AA

 

[20vturbo]

Great! I will place that order today! Is there anything else I should get there since I will be getting that kit?

I haven't had my own fish tank for years, and never a salt water tank. My dad has had saltwater for as long as i can remember and he now has a 90 gallon tank that is AWESOME! 8O

The story of fish tank as far as I know is that my friend called up and said would you like a fish tank? I of course said yes! My dad and I came to pick up the tank and had to take all the water and put it in a bunch of buckets and took the tank to my house. with all the water out we sprayed the inside of the tank and dried it. We then set up the tank and put all the water, rocks, and CC in. We left the clown fish, tang, and brittle star (that were in the tank before) in my dads fish tank so that they wouldn't have to go through another move, the brittle star didn't make it, dying in my dads tank . I left the filter going, rocks, water, and CC in the tank for a week and then we went and bought 3 damsel fish. I let them get adjusted for about 30 min. and then opened the bag. The first damsel died within about 7 hours (my dad said he looked stressed) the other two have been in the tank for three days now, however the blue damsel seems to loose all of his color in the night b/c when I turn the lights on in the morning he is very sick/pail looking and he gains it back by the time I get home from work...is this normal or is it a sign of something wrong with the tank?

 

[melosu58]

My fish look pale when the lights come on but I`m thinking something might be wrong because of the deaths. The star dying could be the result of high nitrates. Maybe some PWC`s will help out till you get your test kit. Hope all goes well

 

[tecwzrd]

Do you live with your dad or is he close? His experience should help since you are new to SW. You should drip acclimate fish for at least an hour or two to give them enough time to adjust.

Fish loosing color at night is normal for most species.

There are plenty of other things you can buy like a Refractometer, a backup heater, skimmer, & another powerhead.

 

[tecwzrd]

The star dying could be the result of high nitrates.

The star was in the dad's 90 gal tank. Probably didn't acclimate it long enough, brittles need a long 3+ hour drip acclimation IMO.

 

[roka64]

I would get rid of the damsels, as they can becom VERY agressive, as they get older and may harass new fish. I also prefer to drip acclimate my fish, before adding them to my QT.

 

[20vturbo]

My fish look pale when the lights come on but I`m thinking something might be wrong because of the deaths. The star dying could be the result of high nitrates. Maybe some PWC`s will help out till you get your test kit. Hope all goes well

sorry, the brittle star, tang and clown fish all stayed in my dads tank the only thing that died in my tank so far is the one damsel.

I would get rid of the damsels, as they can becom VERY agressive, as they get older and may harass new fish. I also prefer to drip acclimate my fish, before adding them to my QT.

How long should I leave them in there to make sure the water is ok?

 

[roka64]

Are you cycling with live animals? Your best bet is to get the test kit and find out what your parameters are....

 

[20vturbo]

Are you cycling with live animals? Your best bet is to get the test kit and find out what your parameters are....

I guess I'm not sure what cycling is? I left the tank empty for a week with all the water and filters going? I thought it would be ok to get starter fish b/c the guy at the pet store told me thats how to start?? I guess I should have found this forum a week sooner

Do you live with your dad or is he close?

He lives about an 45min away

also does anyone know what that tube does in the picture below does, I can't see it making bubbles when I hook it up?

 

[tecwzrd]

No clue. What is the other end hooked up to? Bubbles are fairly useless in SW tanks. Your powerhead and output from the pump give the tank oxygen. 45 minutes is still reasonably close Mine is an 8+ hour plane trip away. He should be able to help if you get stuck with some of the mechanical things of this hobby.

Without knowing your water's parameters it's hard to know if your tank is cycled which just means it's got a good bacterial base to deal with ammonia. (see this link for more info)

I'd take a water sample to the local fish store (uncovered) and have them test for ph/nh3/no2/no3 since it's going to take a while to get your test kit in.

 

[20vturbo]

No clue. What is the other end hooked up to? Bubbles are fairly useless in SW tanks. Your powerhead and output from the pump give the tank oxygen.

Its hooked up to an air pump. how does the powerhead provide oxygen? It doesn't seem to cause any bubbles? and what pump are you referring to? I am not sure if I have one? (proves how novice I am!)

I'd take a water sample to the local fish store (uncovered) and have them test for ph/nh3/no2/no3 since it's going to take a while to get your test kit in.

I will try to do this today! Should I also order some salt from www.drsfostersmith.com?

 

[roka64]

O2 is related to your pH. The way to keep a stable pH is from gas exchange, this is caused by good surface ripple. In SW, O2 bubbles do no good. the actual gas exchange happens at the surface of the water. FW is different (I think), but I'm not a "freshie" so I don't really know.
I buy all my dry goods from the drs, they don't charge extra for weight either. I would also recomend a Refractometer http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=9957&N=2004+113074 and a Titanium Probe http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&pc=1&N=0&Nty=1

 

[20vturbo]

Thanks for the advice, I was looking at getting some salt mix for the tank and now realize that there are many different choices....anyone got any favorites?

I also just saw a bunch of pictures of reef aquariums! That would be awesome to have one of those...is it possible with this 40 gal, or will that need to be later when I have much more capital for a larger tank? And is there a place I can read about the difference between live rock and reef stuff?

 

[tecwzrd]

All oxygen exchange is done at the surface either with FW or SW but SW doesn't exchange oxygen as well as FW so more current is needed at the surface then what air bubbles can produce. I've always used power heads in my FW tank as well since I really don't like the looks of bubbles personally.

As Scott mentioned www.drsfostersmith.com doesn't charge extra for heavy items like salt buckets so it's probably much cheaper to buy salt there also then your lfs. I'd get the 160+ gal bucket so it will last you awhile.

Instant Ocean or Oceanic are fine for fowlr.

There isn't much of a difference between fowlr and reef tanks. Reef tanks need better filtration (quality skimmer) to keep no3 below 10 ppm and higher quality lighting since most corals are photosynthetic. Your 40 gal would be fine for reef.

 

[20vturbo]

There isn't much of a difference between fowlr and reef tanks. Reef tanks need better filtration (quality skimmer) to keep no3 below 10 ppm and higher quality lighting since most corals are photosynthetic. Your 40 gal would be fine for reef.

Awesome, it looks like this is my new goal to setup a reef tank. any suggestions of all the stuff I need to buy from the Drs (besides the stuff mentioned)?

thanks again guys, this forum rocks!

 

[roka64]

I just switched from Instant Ocean, to Reef Crystals. I had hair algae and cyano that kept popping up, so I am going to see if the RC gets rid of that problem.

And is there a place I can read about the difference between live rock and reef stuff?

LR refers to the cured rock that hosts the nitrifying bacteria. Reef refers to living corals, that you purchase. FOWLR is a tank not dedicated to corals, but can have corals, as long as you pick corals and fish that are compatible.