please explain my readings

[drucifer]

I filled the tank on Saturday (6/14) with a mixture of tapwater and IO, added sand (Caribsea Ocean Direct, pre-rinsed with tapwater) and live rock (~25-30 lbs....had another large piece that I added a couple of days ago, bringing the total to around 45 lbs.) that was not pre-cleaned. I have since topped-off with around half a gallon of RO/DI water (now that my unit's working). Also this morning, out of fear, I moved around half the live rock back into the curing tub. I went home at lunch, stopping by the LFS to look for the API master test kit, which they did not have. I instead purchased the API tests individually: ammonia, NO2, and NO3. Here are my readings:
Ammonia: ~.375
NO2: off the charts, > 5 and very purple
NO3: ~15
What am I looking at?

 

[CaptainAhab]

The beginning primortic goo of the cycle. get all the rock you want in there now. once it cycles adding more could cause mini's along the way. Bite the bullet and do it now.

cya in 60 days give or take

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

Yup. Welcome to AquariumAdvice, and welcome to your cycle!

The NO3 readings are a bit unusual, but since you started with tap water my guess is that the some of those nitrates came in with the tap water. If you would've started the tank with RO/DI water, most likely your Ammonia and NO2 readings would be the same - you'd just have close to 0 for nitrates. As your cycle progresses, the ammonia and nitrite levels will spike up and eventually go to zero. All the while, your nitrate readings should continue to increase.

 

[roka64]

Yep, sounds like you are well on your way. Definitely add the rock during your cycle.

 

[melosu58]

I agree cycle the tank and cure your LR at the same time.

 

[drucifer]

It's done! I put the rock back in the tank last night. Thanks guys!

Yup. Welcome to AquariumAdvice, and welcome to your cycle!

The NO3 readings are a bit unusual, but since you started with tap water my guess is that the some of those nitrates came in with the tap water. If you would've started the tank with RO/DI water, most likely your Ammonia and NO2 readings would be the same - you'd just have close to 0 for nitrates. As your cycle progresses, the ammonia and nitrite levels will spike up and eventually go to zero. All the while, your nitrate readings should continue to increase.

I had the same suspicion about the tap water as well, but I tested it for both NO2 and NO3 and both were not detectable. Now that my RO/DI is up and running I've got a tank's worth of fresh water ready to mix and a tank's worth of salt water. Is there any harm in doing a 100% water change once the cycle is complete?

 

[melosu58]

I would just do a 33% PWC if it was me and then do smaller frequent PWC`s after that. I really dont think a 100% PWC is necessary. JMO

 

[cmor1701d]

A 1/3 - ½ PWC at the end of the cycle should be all that's required. Then weekly pwc's (10% or more).

 

[drucifer]

Even though I used tap water for the initial fill, but now have RO/DI water in good supply?

 

[roka64]

I don't understand your question.

 

[drucifer]

lol...sorry about that. I meant that because my tank is now filled with salt water made from tap water, would it be beneficial or wasteful to change 100% once cycling is complete?

 

[cmor1701d]

Wasteful. Just do the 1/3 - 1/2 change and then keep up with weekly water changes using RODI and top off with RODI (no salt mix)

 

[drucifer]

Roger that. Thank you!

 

[lance]

Tap water is bad but its the long term use thats the main problem as unwanted elements will slowly rise with each water change.If your useing an Ro unit i wouldnt worry. Your tank is cycling , heres a link on whats happening.

What is the Nitrogen Cycling Process?

Even though I used tap water for the initial fill, but now have RO/DI water in good supply?