Powder brown tang ick?

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AlexRoerden

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jan 19, 2021
Messages
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Hello fish fans, 2 weeks ago I noticed spots on my tang, I treated my 150 gallon with kick ick, but it didn’t fully go away. I stopped treating for 2 days and now he has horrible fin rot on the rear and top fins. Is it ick? What medication can I use that’s reef safe, and is it too late for him?.. my clownfish also have the sickness as well as my foxface. However my salmon tang looks healthy.
 
I don't know what 'kick ich' is other than snake oil. Your fish is sick and stressed. This won't get better until the stressor is removed, no matter what chemical or liquid is poured into your display. So, lets stop dosing for starters as there is no medication that is able to kill the parasites and other things in this hobby that is reef safe. Even after treating in a display, returning it to the tank with the same stressor leads to the same problem. You can see this in the other fish in the tank as they are also suffering.
So, can you tell us about the tank? Size? Parameters? How long has it been set up? How long have you owned the fish? What is your maintenance routine? How much live rock is in the system...have we considered aggression being the issue here?
Plain and simple, the solution here is to not dose anything and do water changes until nitrates are under control.
 
Check out hyposality. Also check out turbo twist uv light.

You might be able to supply an answer to my issue with UV lights in the home aquaria. This would be their size. I run a UV light on my parent's home water, due to the spring being downhill from a field that uses manure to fertilize the field. To ensure it is drinkable, the water has to pass through so much of the light. This is easily managed due to simply plumbing into the water line. We can't do that in our home systems, at least currently. This then tells us that 100% of the water column will be able to pass through the UV light, which would then make it useless.

Am I looking at this backwards and that it is a 'help' towards the problem and people don't understand and think it is a solution, like herbal ich treatments?
 
Tank info—

The tank is about a year old, 150 gallon still in the green alage stage of the cycle. Nitrates are threw the roof, maxed out at 140 ppm but have done a water change. I know I need the peramiters to be right. The salmon tang I have is similar in size to the powder brown but is always chasing him. The other fish get along well but still have the sickness(Clowns, trigger). Have a decent amount of live rock,
 
You might be able to supply an answer to my issue with UV lights in the home aquaria. This would be their size. I run a UV light on my parent's home water, due to the spring being downhill from a field that uses manure to fertilize the field. To ensure it is drinkable, the water has to pass through so much of the light. This is easily managed due to simply plumbing into the water line. We can't do that in our home systems, at least currently. This then tells us that 100% of the water column will be able to pass through the UV light, which would then make it useless.

Am I looking at this backwards and that it is a 'help' towards the problem and people don't understand and think it is a solution, like herbal ich treatments?

So are asking will it work. I have had a turbo twist on my tank for years with only one incident of ich in 20 years. My experience is favorable to the turbo twist for getting rid of parasites like ich.
 
Tank info—

The tank is about a year old, 150 gallon still in the green alage stage of the cycle. Nitrates are threw the roof, maxed out at 140 ppm but have done a water change. I know I need the parameters to be right. The salmon tang I have is similar in size to the powder brown but is always chasing him. The other fish get along well but still have the sickness(Clowns, trigger). Have a decent amount of live rock,

We're cycling? Well, there is the answer. Your tank is cycling. If you are attempting to do a fish in cycle, you need to check out our articles section on cycling. I am not a fan of this approach in the slightest, for the reason we are having this conversation here.
So, how to solve. All fish need to be moved to a hospital tank and treated with a copper based medication or hyposalinity. You can then cycle your tank with a pure ammonia or shrimp in method (my preferred).
This way you can focus on the health of the fish in one managed system while you are trying to cycle the other tank, aka causing a toxic environment to get enough beneficial bacteria build up to accept how much your future fish eat and poop.
The only other option is to return all livestock and cycle your tank appropriately.
 
Nitrates that high is your problem, combine that with stress from establishing a pecking order and diseases thrive. I agree with hank and would use copper in a qt tank and do a complete water change to get your nitrate down and stir up the sand before hand. And then your best bet is leaving the tank fishless for a while to
 
Cycling with shrimp


Ok so I’m treating my fish in a hospital tank with copper, what do the nitrates need to be at (ppm) before I can add the cleaner shrimp to finish the cycle, also I’ve tried to keep chaeto in my refugium and it keeps turning to mush. I run the light 24/7. Also take a look at the picture of my foxface and tell me if it’s too late for him and if that’s a sign of velvet.image-2021-11-17-20:20:11-314.jpg
 
Most likely it is too late for that fish.
And what do you mean cleaner shrimp? The shrimp in method is a rotting piece of cocktail shrimp.
Is that a picture of your hospital tank? A hospital tank needs to be borderline bare, with some PVC to hide in. Rock, sand, and such absorbs the copper.
 
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