Rbta split!!!!

[coralbandit]

Then is it really a problem?
Isn't that the idea behind an ATS or refugium, to have the algae consume the nitrates and phosphates before they reach detectable levels?
Does that then mean that you cannot trust your water tests as well because you are employing an ATS?

Not trying to be difficult Sniper, but in a way you are contradicting yourself.
either algae is a good way to export excess nutrients or it isn't.
If it is, as evidenced by the use refugiums and ATS, then the only concern here is the aesthetics of the algae in the main display and preventing it from impacting corals, correct?

I've seen ATS setups that grow pounds of algae in a weeks time, so are you implying that those setups have horrible water quality as well, or is it only whenever the algae grows where we want it to that it is ok.

I agree that the presence of that much healthy algae warrants a closer look at water quality, but does it really matter beyond personal preference where the algae grows, as long as it is not encroaching on the corals and other livestock in the tank.

^+1^ as my tank looks like crap also!
I'm getting covered in calurpae I don't think I ever added?
At least not this species(racemorsa) I yank it out and realize that their is reason it is growing(most probably not good) but it is still exporting something that is in excess or I clearly seem to lack control over?

 

[Sniperhank]

It obviously is a problem. The bta split. The algae is a sign of the issue at hand in this case, rather than a solution.

 

[PB_Smith]

It obviously is a problem. The bta split. The algae is a sign of the issue at hand in this case, rather than a solution.

No, you're making that assumption.
From everything I have seen and read, an anemone splitting is;
1) natural means of propagation
2) usually happens when conditions are good
3) can also happen as a reaction to stress, but not as frequently

so you are making an assumption when you offer stress as the only possible reason for the anemone splitting when in reality the exact opposite could be the case. The OP's water parameters could be ideal thanks to the algae growing and the bubbletip split because it is healthy and deemed the environment one safe to reproduce in.

In perusing other forums, it would appear they split more often when conditions are good rather than a reaction to stress.

My advice to the OP is to do more research, double check water quality, and don't stress the algae if it's not a problem, and then research at various sites and sources to get a more complete answer.

 

[Sniperhank]

There is a difference between having some algae and that much. It is really indicating a problem that will need addressed.
In such a case, I would want to ensure using ro/di water (distilled is a better option than tap if ro/di not available), look at how much one is feeding, large water changes to bring nutrient levels down.
I don't want to see someone else out of the hobby after a tank is overwhelmed by algae. If extreme enough, the use of the liquid phosphate removers might be necessary. This is something I have become more understanding of after Melev's demonstration on it. That said one still has to be careful with such a product and follow the instructions carefully.

 

[King Supra]

Whoa that blew up like crazy!!! Alright so I read a lot and most of it is about the hair grass algae yes I do have a huge problem with it I'm not going to lie every time I clean the rocks I pull about 5 pounds of algae out I've tried clean up crews and everything nothing seems to work it does make me wry angry as it looks ugly in my opinion I've never been able to get rid of it but it was worse about 6 months ago it's starting to slowly die off in my tank it's mostly on my rock and that's what I'm trying to get rid of now I Elena thinking about leaving rocks in freshwater for a couple days to kill it but I have other living creatures like feather dusters hitchhiker anemones (good ones) and a pistol shrimp and I don't want to kill my shrimp even though I never see him he's a cool addition so I'm out of ideas!

 

[Ingy]

I fought an algae issue last year due to reusing sand when I moved my tank (I'm pretty certain that was the cause). I did everything to eradicate the algae from feeding very sparingly (a few fish starved) to removing my corals to another tank and light starving the DT. Nothing will get rid of algae, even if it does help prevent NEW algae from growing. The only thing that worked was manual removal. Of course not by me. I bought a hefty CUC with over 70 hermits of different algae eating varieties for about $200.

As for the anemone, the algae itself can be an irritant and may be a causal factor in the splitting. Algae certainly can kill corals.


Sent from my iPhone using Aquarium Advice

 

[King Supra]

I don't have any corals as of now my uncle has a ton that his old decorator crab sniped off and now they grow all over his 90 and he just gives them to me I haven't had any since I got rid of my of lights as they sucked so I want to try with them again but I need to get this algae under control

 

[melosu58]

If it`s slowly disapearing I would not change anything. It did not appear overnight and it wont go away over night. Slowly disapearing is a good thing. Eventually it will be all gone. As far as the anenome it could be for bad reasons or good reasons. My experience is that it mostly happens because of stress but whatever reason it is as mentioned above check your lighting and parameters and make sure they are OK and be glad you have two now. Good luck.

 

[King Supra]

Thank you all very much for the help both anemones seem to be doing good they keep moving away from each other I actually have to move the rock due to one moving into the shadows just one thing how exactly do I feed them??? Or do I just let them heal before I feed them? If I do let them heal how do I know when they're ready?

 

[Sniperhank]

There is no need to feed a photosynthetic anemone. I would be more hesitant to do so as feeding too large of food can further stress an anemone. They should be getting all the food they need from your lighting, but it needs to be strong, intense lighting. With this being supplied, it will be as happy as a clam.

 

[PB_Smith]

Whoa that blew up like crazy!!! Alright so I read a lot and most of it is about the hair grass algae yes I do have a huge problem with it I'm not going to lie every time I clean the rocks I pull about 5 pounds of algae out I've tried clean up crews and everything nothing seems to work it does make me wry angry as it looks ugly in my opinion I've never been able to get rid of it but it was worse about 6 months ago it's starting to slowly die off in my tank it's mostly on my rock and that's what I'm trying to get rid of now I Elena thinking about leaving rocks in freshwater for a couple days to kill it but I have other living creatures like feather dusters hitchhiker anemones (good ones) and a pistol shrimp and I don't want to kill my shrimp even though I never see him he's a cool addition so I'm out of ideas!

maybe you should consider building an ATS if you are pulling that much out.
check snipers thread about it.

 

[King Supra]

What's an ATS??? I've never heard or seen that before. This is a new thing and I thought I knew quite a bit lol!

 

[Sniperhank]

An algae turf scrubber. Pretty basic explanation is a screen for algae to grow on outside of the display tank, like a sump, where water is pumped over the screen and lights are pointed at the screen to encourage algae to grow there.

 

[coralbandit]

The true benefit of ATS over fuge is most don't remove dispose of calurpaes in the fuge.
They do remove the algae(this is true exportation).
ATS are simple and effective.
I'm going to agree NO feedings by me to my nems.
Maybe the clowns or flow offer a bite,but it is light that rules the show IMO.
I hope yours do as well as mine!
I just checked my old thread it was just over a year ago for mine.

 

[mr_X]

I'll bet ya it's the clown. See if the anemone the clown chooses splits again. If they both split, then there goes my theory.

 

[mr_X]

The true benefit of ATS over fuge is most don't remove dispose of calurpaes in the fuge.
They do remove the algae(this is true exportation).
ATS are simple and effective.
I'm going to agree NO feedings by me to my nems.
Maybe the clowns or flow offer a bite,but it is light that rules the show IMO.
I hope yours do as well as mine!
I just checked my old thread it was just over a year ago for mine.

Isn't it true that the more algae you have, the more nutrients it will absorb? Why then would it be beneficial to remove algae at all, other than freeing up some space for another reason?
FYI, everyone rips algae out of the refugium at some point or another, otherwise the underside of the mass will stop getting light and die off, reintroducing nutrients to the system.

 

[coralbandit]

My prolifera grows slow IMO ( too slow to be "high impact").
My racemorsa will grow quickly but also go sexuall and release a lot of nutrients back to system IMO.
I try to 'harvest' and export mine.
I actually feel like good growth means excess nutrients are in water column like in fw EI dosing strategy and without conducting large water changes (unnecessary in marine IMO also) that removing the algae(calurpae{it is a macro algae) is what should should be done?
The algae(hair crap) in a ASTS will not leach what it uses,why remove it???
To encourage new higher growth and higher nutrient export.

 

[King Supra]

I'm still having a hard time because so many people are with it then others are against it (the algae) now what do I do mr_x I'm not sure what has caused it all I know as of now it that they seem to be fine but I'm not 100% on them he switches between the anemones all day and seems to want or need to host them both as he switches quite often I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do at this point when I set up my 90 I'm just going to get all dry rock and then buy coral and stuff from my LFS because I don't want worms or anything on my rocks

 

[PB_Smith]

Isn't it true that the more algae you have, the more nutrients it will absorb? Why then would it be beneficial to remove algae at all, other than freeing up some space for another reason?
FYI, everyone rips algae out of the refugium at some point or another, otherwise the underside of the mass will stop getting light and die off, reintroducing nutrients to the system.

algae only takes up nutrients as it grows, so pruning and encouraging new growth will always use up more nutrients than old growth.

that is the same concept behind fluidized bed filters and media reactors. As the media bangs around the outer and older layers of bacteria get knocked off and new colonies grow to take their place so there is always new, viable bacteria growing.

 

[mr_X]

I'm still having a hard time because so many people are with it then others are against it (the algae) now what do I do mr_x I'm not sure what has caused it all I know as of now it that they seem to be fine but I'm not 100% on them he switches between the anemones all day and seems to want or need to host them both as he switches quite often I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do at this point when I set up my 90 I'm just going to get all dry rock and then buy coral and stuff from my LFS because I don't want worms or anything on my rocks

I'm not against algae as a form of nutrient export/nutrient sponge, but I prefer a large refugium over an ATS for it's "refuge from predation" factor. I like that pods have a massive place to populate unchecked, except for the return pump. If you have enough space, either will be beneficial.

As for your anemone issue, it's early to say that this anemone will fail, or that the splitting is something you should worry about. If its the clown, then he will do his thing and so will the anemones.
Most worms are good. People spend hundreds of dollars on "clean up crews" when they have free cleaners that come with the rock. They kill of the worms that are eating the detritus, just to buy some crabs that end up eating their snails...lol.