Ready to Cycle?

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dinotrex

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
82
Location
San Francisco
I have the following equiptment and was wondering if I'm ready to cycle??

I have:

55 gl tank
2 maxi jet 1200's
2 150w heaters
Sand, Not livesand I'm guessing because it's in a bag from the LFS
pH tester
Nitrite/Nitrate tester

Once I get the ok on these, I guess I have to goto the LFS and get ro/di water. I've been reading this is better than tap water and just adding seasalt, is this true?
 
What will you be using for your main filtration source, just the sand or adding LR later?

You will also need an ammonia test and something to read the salinity. Refractometer would be best but there are many hydrometers available as well. Do the heaters have a digital read out? If not you will also need a thermometer of some type. 2x MJ 1200's would be at the base scale for a SW tank but will be fine to start the tank. Once you add animals you may need to add more flow but that will depend on the type of tank you want.

I've been reading this is better than tap water and just adding seasalt, is this true?
Definately better. It will mean alot less algae issues as the tank cycles and matures.

Cheers
Steve
 
OK, so before I start the cycling, I'll pick up a Refractometer and a digital thermometer......... thanks. :p Whats the average price for ro/di? whats ro/di stand for anyways???
 
I think the price of RO/DI varies from area to area. Where I live some places sell RO for about 0.30/gal while other places sell it for 0.50,if you have a selection of LFS around town you may want to call around, since if you are buying water that size tank it $$$ will add up quickly (considering you have a new tank you will have to change your water more frequently). You may want to invest in a RO/DI unit, it may cost you a lot up front, but will save you money in the long run.

As for what RO/DI stands for Reverse Osmosis and Deionization. If you want to find out what it is just do a search on the topic. This one is from the articles section.
How Reverse Osmosis Systems Work
 
I'm thinking Liverock is the better filteration, but seeing as of hows it's so expensive, I'm thinking maybe I'll get 20lbs of Liverock and still go with a Penguin Filter........ Hows that sound?
 
Actually I would still suggest the 20 lbs of LR but as justmy2cents suggested, get some base rock as well. 30 lbs of dry Hawaiian Island rock is quite cheap...

Cheers
Steve
 
Cool, thanks for the liverock info.... So cycle when I get the rocks and not any sooner............. so I'm thinking 40lbs of Liverock and 30 of dry base rock, how's that sound?
 
dinotrex said:
Cool, thanks for the liverock info.... So cycle when I get the rocks and not any sooner............. so I'm thinking 40lbs of Liverock and 30 of dry base rock, how's that sound?
Sounds great. While your waiting on the rock, you should get the tank up and running with water and make sure the equipment is working correctly. You can either add sand now or after the rock arrives. Just be sure you submerge the rock an inch or so into the sand for stability. If there will be the possibility of "digging" animals added, I would place the base rock on the or as close to the bottom as possible.

Just remember rock will displace water so make sure you remove about a third when the rock is added. :wink:

Cheers
Steve
 
Sounds pretty good, check around for "base rock" local and if they want a bunch for it then I'd go with base rock from liverocks.com. It won't be dry base rock it comes in with stuff growing on it also. :mrgreen:
 
justmy2cents said:
Go with 40 lbs of lr, then get some base rock and let the lr spread to it. :D


what do you mean let the lr spread to the baserock? Do you mean that the base rock will eventually be liverock if put together with real LR?
 
I'm a little confused then, Of all the thing's i've read, I've always been told to set up the equiptment including the rocks before I fill the tank with water. Now you guys are telling me to just start the set up first and just put the rocks in when I get them? Is this the right thing to do?
 
Yes, definatly get your tank up and running, you want your water temp, sg, etc stable. Then you can get the rock and let it cycle.
 
dinotrex said:
I'm a little confused then, Of all the thing's i've read, I've always been told to set up the equiptment including the rocks before I fill the tank with water. Now you guys are telling me to just start the set up first and just put the rocks in when I get them? Is this the right thing to do?
It really doesn't make much difference either way but personally I would like to make sure everything is up and running.

The last thing you want is for everything to arrive and then discover a snag in your well laid plans. :wink:

Cheers
Steve
 
ok now I'm confused. Are we talking about straight base rock? If so then it doesn't matter. I was assuming lr. Sorry :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
Actually I should clarify. It may give some of the hitchikers a better chance to have the water prepared so it is at the right temp and salinity but it does not mean that the tank need be running to do that. I just think it a more prepared way to go about it. When you think about the toxic soup the LR will end up going through even with regular water changes, a few "off" levels will not make that much difference. Especially when you consider what most rock goes through from harvest time to delivery.

Cheers
Steve
 
ok, now that I've bought 25lbs of LS, 10 lbs of LR, and saltwater from the LFS. The guy at the LFS says that since I bought all this live stuff plus the saltwater, he said that I don't need to cycle, I know this is BS. now here's my problem....... As I was going back and forth to transfer the saltwater, it got late and the LFS closed while my tank was half full of water (or half empty depending on how you look at it) :mrgreen: I put in my LR but didn't have enough water to fully cover the heater and the skimmer so the water is about 72 degrees, will my live rock survive the night?
 
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