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Old 10-23-2014, 08:48 PM   #61
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Also do you guys have any advice for this guy? He was in middleish of tank but he started to loose color after about a year and started to bleach so i moved him down to my sand bedClick image for larger version

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Old 10-23-2014, 08:54 PM   #62
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Bleaching probably from lack of lighting, rather than too much.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:58 PM   #63
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Lack of lighting? I have 165watt led right above him running at 100%? So move him up? I thought they liked to be down low and lower flow?


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Old 10-23-2014, 09:01 PM   #64
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100%? Well if that's the case then it is most def too much lighting. I don't even run my Radions above 70%.
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:05 PM   #65
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Well actually blies are 100 and whites are 95% just looked, so leave it at bottom then?


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Old 10-23-2014, 09:08 PM   #66
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I'd turn your lights down. You're cooking your coral.
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:10 PM   #67
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I was running at 80 and i was told to go up?


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Old 10-23-2014, 09:16 PM   #68
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I'd want to aim them at around 75%, but I'm not an expert just reflecting what I have been told about LEDs from manufacturers and that they penetrate water extremely well.
The color of the corals in my tank are dulled from how strong they are, as well as phosphate levels. They are going to be turned down again some when I get a chance.
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:23 PM   #69
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Turn them down slowly? Right? And what should i look for? Say bleaching meaning this or browning meang that? Like more or less light


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Old 10-23-2014, 09:53 PM   #70
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Yeah, I'd do 5% a week. Hopefully it pulls through. Bleaching can come from too much or too little light. The more light will bleach and kill quite quickly if not properly acclimated to such an intensity.
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Old 10-23-2014, 11:02 PM   #71
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Im also running my lights on this schedule

Blues on 10am-11pm
Whites 12pm-9pm

Too much? Thinking of adding 2 hours to the whites so they would be at 11am-10pm. Any ideas?


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Old 10-23-2014, 11:16 PM   #72
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I wouldn't have my photoperiod longer than 10 hours. So a 10-10 and then have the blues come on and do 11-9.
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Old 10-23-2014, 11:28 PM   #73
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10-10 and 11-9?? For what colors?


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Old 10-24-2014, 11:45 AM   #74
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Blues then whites
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Old 10-24-2014, 12:59 PM   #75
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So blue from 10-10 and whites from 11-9?


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Old 10-24-2014, 02:29 PM   #76
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Correct.


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Old 10-24-2014, 02:31 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_X View Post
I'm asking because if you had a water quality issue, you would probably see it with the anemone. Splitting is a sign of stress, so take that into consideration. It's generally not a good sign. That it's retained color and is getting larger is a good sign though. Maybe the initial change from the store to your tank created the stress.
I have read that there is really no evidence that the water quality is bad when a nem splits, there is a lot of different opinions on that but no hard factual proof. Some say its good some say it's bad. When I started doing my own w/c making my own t
Ro/di my tds was 0ppm and I was using red sea pro salts, my Ben split into 3 and about two weeks later I noticed all my corals taking off and starting to do much better so I'm confused about this to be honest.

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Old 10-24-2014, 02:48 PM   #78
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just because you perform water changes with rodi and a good salt doesnt ensure good water quality or that there was not an equal stressor.


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Old 10-24-2014, 02:51 PM   #79
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I've heard that you can get ammonia if it's present in your tap but what other things can get through your rodi to cause poor water quality?

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Old 10-24-2014, 02:53 PM   #80
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well just because your doing water changes, it doesn't mean you have no nitrates or anything. you could still have tonnes but not be changing enough, understand?


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