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01-07-2012, 12:18 AM
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#21
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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yea it is a 20 long, what would you suggest?
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01-07-2012, 12:28 AM
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#22
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 639
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Id probably have something lower at around 75-100w. It also depends how cold your home/room gets with the aquarium in it
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01-07-2012, 12:42 AM
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#23
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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In the winter 69-72 summer 75-77. your probably right, ill look for a 100W.
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01-07-2012, 12:45 AM
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#24
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Aquarium Advice FINatic
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 639
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Those are good temps. A 100w should do nicely.
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01-07-2012, 01:03 AM
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#25
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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alright, just ordered the Azoo 100W titanium. thanks!
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01-08-2012, 01:11 AM
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#26
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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why is it a big no-no to put a glass lid over a SW tank?
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01-08-2012, 01:26 AM
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#27
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Aquarium Advice Addict


Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Fairless Hills, Pa.
Posts: 17,895
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It's just better for gas exchange to have more air hitting the water surface, plus, if you are keeping photosynthetic creatures, glass will cut down light some.
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thanks,
Doug
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01-08-2012, 03:50 AM
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#28
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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speaking of light, what light should i get? i would like one that's capable of supporting reefs,i heard LED's are the way to go. any input on that?its a 30" tank.thanks!
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01-08-2012, 03:51 AM
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#29
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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BTW not going reefs yet, just wanted to have that compatibility just in case.
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01-08-2012, 04:02 AM
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#30
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 2,638
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LEDs are pretty expensive atm, and some brands are questionable. Though they save $ in the long run on electricity costs, it seems there's an upgrade to a company's LED fixture every couple years. If it's something you want to do, then go for it.
I'd take a good look at a decent t5 fixture, as well as metal halides. Personally, I like the color/bulb combination you can do with a multi-bulb t5 fixture.
In the end it's up to you. Just do your research =)
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01-08-2012, 01:09 PM
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#31
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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^^ any particular T5 setup you would suggest? also placing order from DRFS for powerheads and test kit, anything else i should get? have- filter, heater.if you guys think of anything please let me know!thanks!
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01-08-2012, 05:35 PM
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#32
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 2,638
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With a 20g tank, no need for a skimmer. Regular PWCs will be fine.
As for lights, What do you want to grow? SPS, LPS, clams...anything, everything? That will determine what kind of lights you will need.
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01-08-2012, 06:45 PM
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#33
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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anything really, i would start out with whatever is more hardy. should i purchase any buffers, or chemicals in general?thanks for your help!
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01-08-2012, 06:56 PM
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#34
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 2,638
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For lights, it really depends on what you want to grow. Acros, clams etc will need a lot of light (8 bulbs+ etc). If you're unsure and if you can afford it, i'd say get lights that can support anything you may want (250w metal halides, 8bulb+ T5 fixture, LEDs etc).
As for buffers and chemicals, I'd stay away from them for now. No need to add anything if nothing's wrong. Test your water and make changes as you go etc.
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01-08-2012, 07:40 PM
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#35
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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ok,thanks. does anyone know if this is a decent enough refractometer?
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01-08-2012, 10:01 PM
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#36
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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01-08-2012, 10:32 PM
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#37
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 2,638
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It is, but to be honest, I would get one that includes a calibration fluid. BRS has one for a bit cheaper and includes the calibration fluid for free:
Refractometer for reading salinity w/ Free Calibration fluid - English
With any new refractometer, calibration is a must.
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01-08-2012, 10:57 PM
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#38
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 121
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just placed an order for 2 Hydor Koralia Nano 425's and also a SW test kit by API. pretty stoked... still looking for a good rock, i'm thinking to buy dry? sounds to risky to buy live? really don't want to introduce diseases and parasites into the tank before i even finish my cycle...let me know if i'm wrong,thanks!
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01-08-2012, 11:24 PM
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#39
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 2,638
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I would buy mostly live, with a few pounds of live rock to help seed and speed up the process. It's cheaper in the end, and you can cure your base rock while your tank cycles. Hopefully there's an LFS near you where you can get some live rock.
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01-08-2012, 11:52 PM
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#40
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 2,123
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Rick meant mostly "base rock".
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