Sump build - help!

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alyxandria

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May 5, 2014
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Okay so please excuse the drawing as it's totally crooked and whatnot. And please note that I don't plan on designing my sump that way exactly. I figure this is how I will plumb my aquarium, please tell me if I'm going wrong somewhere - first time here.

1) Drill two holes for overflow (one higher for emergency)
2) Insert two 1" bulkheads
3) Connect 90 degree elbows to both
4) Connect 1" PVC to both (short pieces)
5) Connect 90 degree elbow to PVC from emergency overflow. Connect small piece of PVC to end of that (to connect to 3-way T piece)
6) Add a 3 way T piece to PVC from overflow and connect the two overflows together.
7) Run another piece of PVC to a check valve
8) Run the PVC to the sump

And on the way back up...

9) Run straight PVC up to another 90 degree elbow into a bulkhead fitted into the tank

ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1417562129.305183.jpg

Because it's an overflow, I'm relying on gravity so a 1" PVC should run about 600 GPH to my sump. Between having approx 3ft of PVC to run down including multiple elbows and a check valve I think this will reduce my flow by 275 GPH. I was hoping to run about 290 GPH through the sump so taking into account the 275 GPH lost I should be running 325 GPH (approx) through my sump. So I would need a return pump that will pump that back correct?

Sorry this is all a little confusing for me and I'm trying to understand it all so if I could get specific advice on what I should do it would be GREATLY appreciated :)
 
Looks alright for a smaller set up.


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Routing overflow into main outlet gains you nothing. Simply, you have only one outlet.
If the blockage appears in the lowest elbow you have a problem.

Bulkhead/elbow/straight pipe. X2 (same as return)
Gives more flow as less bends=more flow.

Haven't gone through the maths. Depending on corrections those numbers may change!
Also don't own a running reef but I have built the stand, tank and fuge!
(I'm only just one step in front! That's how I know those numbers will change)

Might need a bubble baffle somewhere, just before return pump.

(Only joking but. . .)

You might need to connect the pump to the return pipe!:ROFLMAO:
 
Use 90 degree elbows instead or regular 90s. The quarter circle restricts less flow


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Routing overflow into main outlet gains you nothing. Simply, you have only one outlet.

If the blockage appears in the lowest elbow you have a problem.



Bulkhead/elbow/straight pipe. X2 (same as return)

Gives more flow as less bends=more flow.



Haven't gone through the maths. Depending on corrections those numbers may change!

Also don't own a running reef but I have built the stand, tank and fuge!

(I'm only just one step in front! That's how I know those numbers will change)



Might need a bubble baffle somewhere, just before return pump.



(Only joking but. . .)



You might need to connect the pump to the return pipe!:ROFLMAO:


Okay so, bulkhead then elbow then straight pipe into the sump for both overflow holes. Got it. Should I bother with check valves?

To get it plumbed into the sump I'm going to use an elbow at the bottom of the straight PVC. The elbow will connect to straight (horizontal) PVC in order to reach the sump and then another elbow to angle it down into the sump.

My math is as such:

- If I use 1" PVC then my gravitational flow will be 600 GPH.
- For every elbow I estimate I will lose 50-75 GPH. (3 x 50-75 = 150-225 GPH)

So my GPH going into the sump will be 375-450. (Not sure which is more accurate)

And going up from the sump to the DT will be about 3 feet.
- So for every foot I estimate I will lose 75-125 GPH. So that's (3 x 75-125 = 225-375 GPH)
- And for each elbow I estimate I will lose 50-75 GPH. (1 x 50-75 = 50-75) Will I need another elbow to connect the pump to the return?
- I'll put a check valve which I estimate will loose 50-75 GPH (1 x 50-75 = 50-75 GPH)

So going up I have restrictions of 325-525 GPH. If I have 375-450 gallons going through the sump every hour I will have to account for this and the pump I will need. So if I had an 800 GPH return pump (minus 325-525) the return flow would be 275-475 GPH.

Down my overflow would be 375-450 GPH and up my return would be 275-475 GPH.

So I would need a return pump able to handle more? Or can you adjust it?

Is this correct? I'm super confused lol. Is there an easier way to figure this out? Haha
 
Ok so run these if you need any bends. They restrict flow lessImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1417645945.095601.jpg
Do put a check valave and a union so you can maintenance the pump, put check valve above the union. Run 2 separate drain lines into sump and don't connect them. And there is a website online where you can put in the pump you have and all the fittings and how many feet of pvc you have and it will tell you what your gph will be after


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Ok so run these if you need any bends. They restrict flow lessView attachment 257333
Do put a check valave and a union so you can maintenance the pump, put check valve above the union. Run 2 separate drain lines into sump and don't connect them. And there is a website online where you can put in the pump you have and all the fittings and how many feet of pvc you have and it will tell you what your gph will be after


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So my return will be: return pump, union, PVC, check valve, PVC, elbow, bulkhead.

Or should it be: return pump, union, check valve, PVC, elbow, bulkhead.

Omg I'll look for that website. Do you know the URL? That would be super helpful.
 
Either or would work but id prefer pvc between union and check valve. Not alot though. Closer to the bottom the less water will return to your sump. And im not sure I remember using it when i was building mine. Just search up gph calculator on google or something like that


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Either or would work but id prefer pvc between union and check valve. Not alot though. Closer to the bottom the less water will return to your sump. And im not sure I remember using it when i was building mine. Just search up gph calculator on google or something like that


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Ok thanks. Shouldn't it be closer to the top though so the least water drains back into the sump though?
 
The more pvs you have between the check valve and the pump the more water will drain back down


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You should always have a ball valve on the return side of your return pump. This way you can ensure the perfect amount of return into your tank to match the overflow. I've also read that this kind of restriction is healthy for a pump and extends their life, though I am far from an expert on if this has any truth to it.
 
Yes having ball valves on both drains and return would be great so that you could dial everything in correctly. Return and drains


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