sump questions

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Jeffrock

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Feb 4, 2012
Messages
52
Location
Minnesota
ok. so i have a sump that was pre-made, it is for an aquarium for up to 75 g. i was wondering if it will be big enough for my 125 g saltwater that i am going to be setting up next week? also it has bio-balls, can i or should i replace the bio-balls section with live rock to get better filtration? Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreceated......:whistle:
 
Well I know about the sump it's not necessarily designed for a tank size just more water mass is better in your system. You can put a 100gallon sump on a 30gallon in you wanted.
 
i will take a pic, i have not set up yet, i have glass-holes sending me a overflow kit to install first. then lr....and a long wait !
 
Here is the pic of the sump, i know it kinda cheap one but i think it will work
 

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i plan on puting about 100 lbs of live rock in DT when i get it set up, the DT will have 2 750 gph overflows in it when i am done, then i have an fx5 that i am considering using for a water polish and a return pump.....what do you think?
 
How high is the water level in that sump going to be? The height of that low partition just before the sponge filter? If so, you aren't going to be able to put much rock in there.
I would take out those partitions and glue in a new one(s) that keep the water level around 10" deep. Then you can use the bio ball compartment ad a refugium. a little sand maybe...live rock, macro algae...

That is a wet dry. It's built that way so that you can keep the bio balls mostly exposed to air.
 
it is a wet dry system, the water level at max is about 9 1/2 inches deep, i can put rock and sand under the bioballs too cant i? where the water comes off the bioballs? just to the left of the skimmer?
 
can i not put in the bioballs and fill up that section with live rock? does the live rock need to be submerged or just remain wet?
 
That water level that is 9.5" deep- it fluctuates with evaporation, correct? You are not going to be able to run that skimmer efficiently in a constantly changing water level. Another reason to glue a new partition in just after the skimmer.

If you don't use the bio balls you can make a refugium there, but I would suggest putting the skimmer before the refugium so you aren't skimming out your pods. yet another pump they must survive before the display.
 
so would it be just a better idea to get a new sump alltogether? if so could you suggest one and a summary of how you would suggest to set it up so i can see.... i have a uv sterilizer that i would like to fit in here somewhere as well. i would greatly appreceate your input.
 
as soon as my holes are drilled would like to have my set-up figured out so i can get things moving....been staring at empty tank for about 2 months collecting things for my set-up along the way.
 
As I stated above, you can make that one work for you with a few simple mods.
I build my own out of standard aquariums.
I make them - intake with skimmer, then refugium, then return area. The skimmer and refugium area water levels should remain constant, so they will need to be partitioned from each other, and also from the return area.
 
ok, just ordered the eshopps R-200 refugium for my tank! yeah!!!! should be here in a few days......
 
where should i put the UV sterilizer? right before the return? in the return line? do i need to use this? i am planning to use the FX5 as a water polish and return pump. good idea or not?
 
You don't need to use it. I would not use a canister filter as a return pump either. The refugium will have a lot of pods breeding in it which you want to make it to the display. You'll have to clean out a canister filter about weekly to keep the nitrate levels down and that will kill off a lot of the critters that you want alive.
 
ok, thanks.... what size return pump should i be looking for for the sump that im getting? its gonna move a lot of water won't it?
 
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