Tank Cycled.. How to get rid of Nitrate's?

[TheChad]

Hey all,

My 55g tank finally cycled, I put 50lbs of LR in the tank, but the LR was delayed in shipping and had huge die off, I then put another 15lbs of much better condition LR, which then the tank cycles within about a week..

I have 0 Ammonia, but my Nitrates are at 160ppm which is the highest the liquid test kit goes..

This is after changing out about 20 gallons of water.

I would have thought changing 20 gallons of water would have brought the nitrates down alot more...

Is there anything else I can do?

Thanks,

-TheChad

 

[malkore]

water changes. if the tank is 55gallons, you need to replace 27.5gallons of water with nitrate free water, and that would lower nitrates from 160ppm to 80ppm, which is still extremely high for a SW tank.

having a well light refugium with macro algae can help control nitrates, since the algae will use it as a nutrient source.

protein skimmers also help, by removing DOC's before they have time to break down into nitrate.

 

[TheChad]

So I might as well just change out all 55g of water with fresh saltwater?

-TheChad

 

[Brenden]

So I might as well just change out all 55g of water with fresh saltwater?

Not at one time. As your tank matures it will remove some nitrates on its own. My tank keeps nitrates at 0 on it's own but as mentioned above I also have a refugium.

 

[TheChad]

Well, I just replaced 20g yesterday..

I don't not have, and will not have a refugium. I do not currently have a Protein Skimmer, but will be purchasing a Coralife Skimmer in the next week.

Right now I have an Eheim Professional II Canister filter that flows 251gph.

There is alot of the die off from the rock that is on top of the sand bed. I have tried using a turkey baster, and syphon but was unable to remove it successfully with those. I figured the crabs would slowly get rid of it...

-TheChad

 

[GinaD]

IMHO, I'd do another 15-20 gallons today. Like Brenden said, it's not good to do it all at once, but it's been 24 hrs, and two-20 gallon changes over a 24hr period is better than a 40-gal all at once. It lessons the shock to the system.

As far as the dead stuff on the LR, most people I believe scrape that off before introducing it to the tank. If there's more dead stuff on the LR, I'd remove the LR & scrape it off instead of waiting for it to fall off.

Just my opinion.

 

[Lagger]

You could also try Purigen by Seachem or Amquel+ by Kordon. Neither would do harm to your cycle either.

 

[melosu58]

I`m not much of a chemical person here. I think your best bet will be PWC and the skimmer will definitely help.

 

[Lagger]

I`m not much of a chemical person here. I think your best bet will be PWC and the skimmer will definitely help.

Typically I'm not a chemicallly inclined person either, but his trates are through the roof. Both products I mentioned are really harmless. Purigen is just an obsorbsion mechanism and Amquel is a water conditioner. I think his best bet is PWC, like you said, but treated with Amquel first. Best of both worlds.

 

[Guest]

If the Nitrates are that high after a cycle, my inclination would be water supply issues... PWC and diligence is the only way the Nitrates are going to come down. this is really dependent upon what the water quality is used for new mix. If Nitrates are present in it, then it will stay bad no matter what, until an RO/DI unit is utilized..

Also, look into using a different test kit... Unless you are feeding extreme amounts of food, your trates should never reach that point... EditedDie off would cause an ammonia spike more than Nitrates right away).Try a Salifert or Seachem test kit. I think you will find a different result.

Best of luck,

 

[TheChad]

What type of RO/DI system? I typed in "RO DI" on ebay, and I found RO/DI units anywhere from $50 to about $300..

What do I need? I assume I probably only need about 100GPD or less ince its a 55g tank, and my PWC would only be 20-30g.

I tested my tap water with my liquid test kit and Nitrate was present about 20ppm... But what I don't get is my 29g tank that has now been established just over 3 months has 0ppm nitrate's, both tanks are using tap water with IO salt mix.

I think the biggest problem with the 55g is the major die off from the LR, due to the shipping issues...

My Coralife Super Skimmer is on its way..

I just cleaned the Canister filter's sponges the other day, so hopefully that will help a little. I don't *think* there is anything else that is dead on the LR it self, infact I am just starting to notice some color apearing on the LR, so hopefully it will begin to recover now.

Thanks,

-TheChad

 

[melosu58]

If your tap is 80 ppm on nitrates that`s you problem right there. Your RO/DI will be a lifesaver to your tank.

 

[TheChad]

If your tap is 80 ppm on nitrates that`s you problem right there. Your RO/DI will be a lifesaver to your tank.

Oops! I ment 20ppm, not 80ppm...


One problem I see with the RO/DI's is they are sooo slow. My In-Laws have one they use for drinking water, but it is soo slow. We make Saltwater 1g at a time, and mix the salt.

Using tap water it takes a long time to change 20+ gallons, the RO/DI is bound to take 3x longer.. Wish there was a better way..


I still don't understand why my 29g tank has no nitrate problems!?

-TheChad

 

[Feelin_Salty]

RODI takes a long time, so your best bet is to get a rubermaid tub from Lowes or somewhere for about $10 and fill it full of water. You can also get a float valve for them, so that when you take the water out it refills itself. I have another tub too with a pump in it that mixes my saltwater.

 

[TheChad]

Would a 4 gallon bladder do the same thing as the rubermaid tube?

We make saltwater 1 gallon at a time..

THanks,

-TheChad

 

[melosu58]

Patience is a wonderful thing

 

[tecwzrd]

What type of RO/DI system? I typed in "RO DI" on ebay, and I found RO/DI units anywhere from $50 to about $300..

A lot of people get them from ebay for around $100. Below are the 3 most popular sites:
Filter-Direct-store (seems to be most popular on this site)
The-Aqua-Safe-Pure-Water-Shop
ROfilterDepot

Also airwaterice.com is a good place if you don’t want to deal with ebay.

As you are aware having 20 ppm no3 in your tap is an issue and needs to be resolved ASAP. The reason you have 0 readings in your other tank is because it’s developed enough bacteria to reduce the no3. Your new 55 gal has not yet.

You may want to consider a hob refugium to help with nutrient exportation since you do not plan on using a sump.

 

[TheChad]

I am assuming the RO's with the Bladder's will be faster than not using a bladder? In other words, since I only make Saltwater 1 gallon at a time, the RO should be able to refill the bladder faster than I take it out, but if I get water from the RO directly, I know they are slow..

Does it matter if it has 1 or 2 DI stages?

Thanks,

-TheChad

 

[TheChad]

I guess it was a false alarm.

I tested the water yesterday in the 55g, and the nitrates were down to 80ppm (I haven't changed any water), which is allot more normal after a cycle... I guess the last test I did was right at the last part of the cycle.

Now the cycle should be over.

The Coralife Super Skimmer is coming UPS today, I will get that installed, and do a PWC to hopefully rid the remaining Nitrates.

Once we are at 0ppm, I am going to add a couple of chromis's to maintain the bacteria, while I put in my clean up crew to get rid of the dead stuff that has fallen off the LR, and is laying on the sand bed.

Once the clean up crew gets done with that, I am going to put my inverts and fish from my 29g into the 55g tank, and move the Chromis's to the 29g tank to maintain the Bacteria in that tank in between occupants, the 29g will be my QT tank, I will leave the Chromis's in there full time.

I figured Chromis's would be a good choice because from what I have read, they are hardy, but don't have the aggression that Damsel's have..

Thanks,

-TheChad

 

[tecwzrd]

I have a Blue Green Chromis which is considered a damsel but is the least aggressive fish in my tank. It has grown 1” in the last 9 months and maxes out around 3”. I’d get 1 or 3 to start. Fun active fish imo.