Water Care question-test levels

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neeker4

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
174
Ok, I have done some looking throughout the forum and can't find a definitive answer. What should salt water levels read out at AFTER being cycled? Below is waht I have been able to find but unable to verify as correct:
Ammonia=0ppg
NitrIte=0ppg
NitrAte=?
ph= between 7.2-8.3???
Alkilinity=?
Salt=1.020-1.030?
These are the numbers I have found on the internet but I don't trust them until I get a confirmed aquatic pro's opinion.
Thanks for any help ladies and gentlemen.
 
As long as your ammonia and nitrite went up and back to zero, you are cycled. There's no definitive answer on what the readings should be other than those 2 at zero. You'll likley have nitrates present and some ph adjustments to accomplish. Salinity should be constant at around 1.025.

What makes you think you may not have cycled?
 
Ok, thanks for the help AD... I haven't yet set up my tank but when I do set it up, I want to know what levels to look out for when I start the cycling process. Any recommended test kits? My LFS has a salt water kit but I don't remember what brand it is.
 
After the tank cycles do a 30% - 50% water change with RODI water mixed to 1.023 - 1.026 SG. Wait a week and retest your water, this time for everything. If everything checkls out you can SLOWLY start adding livestock (1 -2 fish per month).
 
Thanks for the advice and articles AD. That test kit looks similar and has the same things as the one at my LFS, and the article was excellent at explaining the fishless cycling process. What is the time frame that a H2O test kit is good for? I have heard up to a year and also 6 months max, so I'm not sure which is correct.
 
Thank you for the advice also cmor. That I never would have thought of. I would have probably just run off to my LFS and bought a few new friends and made a possible mistake.
 
The experation date should be on the test kit.
 
Yes but as a well versed consumer, I have been taught to be skeptical about seller advertised expiration dates. So they tell the correct expiration dates, or they put dates on their packaging that will help move more units in the future?
 
Different manufacturers deal with expiration differently. For example, API doesn't print expiration dates on their bottles, but the date of manufacture. Here's a recent post regarding the coding on API bottles...

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f14/api-test-bottle-expiration-date-question-128388.html

On the other hand, Salifert test kits give an actual expiration date on the box. But on the bottles inside the box, lot numbers are given. The lot numbers *appear* to be a date of manufacture.

Would I use the kit after the expiration date? Depends on what test we're talking about and how sure I am of the value it's reporting. If your test kit is old and you're getting numbers that are showing a major shift in parameters - for no apparent reason - then it's probably time to get a new test kit before making any changes. My magnesium kit is nearly a couple years past it's expiration date - but the numbers it gives me make sense and I have no reason to doubt them... so I just keep using it!

Regarding your original question about parameters, here's a little chart:

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=16+1979&aid=3355

These are good levels to shoot for AFTER you do what cmor mentioned in his post!
 
Thaks for the advice and everything guys. It is with a heavy heart and a lot of frustration when I say I will have to put the tank on hold for at least another month or two. I was told by an IRS lady that I will be getting audited and will have to wait at least a month until I might see the check. This is a bummer as I had a bunch of stuff on hold at my LFS... I won't give up, just delay the inevitable...More time to learn one supposses.
 
Ok, so I finally got my check, paid off necessary bills, and have begun the process of starting my tank. I decided to to upgrade to a 29g tank as it has the same foot print as the 20L but a bit taller. Luckily, Petco is having a great sale, $1.00 per gallon for all tanks up to I think 55g. I have ordered 2 Koraline nano 425gph pumps, 24# of LR, 2 100 W heaters, and a H.O.B. skimmer/sump set up (a bit leary about how this will work out, but I figured it could only help as it will add extra water movement and will be a place to put some mud/LR particles/chaeto etc.) I have a question as to what to do next. Can I start the cycle with a live sand/crushed coral mix, or do I wait for EVERYTHING to get in? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
I would not add any crushed coral as it will be hard to remove later.Get the things that you need then start your cycle. That would be enough LR and you really don't need LS as Aragonite dry is much cheaper and twice as good, the sand was more then likely sitting on your dealers shelf and is no longer live anyway.
So get your rock, Power heads and circulating pump then you can start your cycle,
Test the water at your home it may not be good enough for a reef setup and you may need a RO/DI system.
 
Today I picked up some supplies... black argonite sand 40#, salt mix, hydrometer, and a test kit. Still waiting for the supplies I ordered online to arrive and then I will get the tank up and running!
 
Ok, so my base rock and two 425 Koralia water movers. I washed the rock off, it was extremely dirty, and have placed it in the tank. I don't have the heaters yet so I haven't mixed any water yet but I am hoping to get my heaters tomorrow and start cycling thereafter. I am really pleased with the rock sculpting and will try to load up some pictures tomorrow. I'm off to drink some beers and celebrate my nations "bday." happy almost 4th everybody...
 
I finally got everything in and have the tank up and cycling. It is still really cloudy because I decided to add black sand as the substrate. I threw the dead shrimp in a plastic ziplock bag, poked a bunch of holes in it and threw it in the tank so the cycle will start. When it clears up I will try and post some pictures. Day 1 begins...
 
If you are worried about removing the carcass, I would wrap it in some cheesecloth. I dont know if you will get enough exchange through the ziploc.
 
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