Would it be hard to turn my 27g freshwater cube tank to saltwater?

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sealife

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I was thinking of starting a saltwater tank. Fish only or fowlr.

My tank specs are:
47cm cube
27g/103 litres
Eheim 2215 filter with media
Eheim jager 75w heater
Beamswork led light 8w
Eheim 100 airpump

What is the difference if I was to turn this into a saltwater tank? What will I need?

What are water changes like?

Thanks.

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Aquarium Advice mobile app
 
I was thinking of starting a saltwater tank. Fish only or fowlr.

My tank specs are:
47cm cube
27g/103 litres
Eheim 2215 filter with media
Eheim jager 75w heater
Beamswork led light 8w
Eheim 100 airpump

What is the difference if I was to turn this into a saltwater tank? What will I need?

What are water changes like?

Thanks.

Sent from my GT-I9305 using Aquarium Advice mobile app


Cube tanks are actually very popular for scaping reef tanks. I would definitely do FOWLR as the rock will give you biological filtration.

Don't use the air pump. The bubbles popping at the surface is like flicking salt on everything.

Since this isn't a reef lighting is irrelevant.

Get you some aragonite sand and it will act as a pH buffer to 8.0 and be your sand bed.

Fishless cycling is highly recommended for saltwater.

Water changes pretty similar to freshwater. An RODI system is best though since it's not a reef it is not essential to have. Just premix your Water the night before and let it stabilize.

Probably one of the most important things is keeping the water moving. If water becomes stagnant the pH can drop and mess with salinity.


Caleb
 
Ok so let me get this straight...

- With water changes, I just premix salt with tap water the night before, and its ready to go.

- no air pump. Take it out.

- I can keep using the low watt cheap led light.

- buy new substrate called aragonite and replace it with my gravel. (Can this also be used for fresh water?)

- fishles cycle as I did with freshwater

- maybe buy tunze wave maker for water movement if my eheim is not enough?

- buy live rock and add in tank decoration.

- keep using my eheim filter with eheim media.

Thats it???
No protein skimmer??

Nothing more I need to know?

Sounds do able..

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Many don't use skimmers in tanks under 30g as waterchanges will work. Agood skimmer is key if you plan to go larger IMO.
Here is a list from Reefing Madness;
08-16-2015, 12:41 PM #3

Reefing Madness

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Posts: 421



#1-Dry Rock, there are a few hitchhikers on Live Rock that people want to stay away from, so they opt for using Dry Rock, or Dead Rock. Macro Rock is a good place to start looking for that. Either way you go you will need a minimum of 1lb per gallon. You can use Fully Cured Live Rock, and have the tank cycled in just a few days also. Other way is to use just a couple of pounds of Live Rock and the rest Macro or Dry Rock.
#2-Replacement filter media like filter floss and activated carbon (if you get a filter) Which is really not necessary.
#3-Multiple Power heads (2 or 3) 10x your water volume for just a Fish Only With Live Rock, and at least 20x your water volume for a Reef Tank. So lets say your going reef, and you have a 100g tank, you would need flow in that tank at minimum of 2000gph, or 2 1000gph power heads.
#4-Protein Skimmer, rated at 2 times your water volume. Unless your tank is under 30g, in which case you can do 10% water changes a week to rid the system of detrius. But, you'll have to watch the water parameters close, if things go haywire, you'll have to do more water changes.
#5-Saltwater Test Kits. Reef Test Kit. Test for Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, PH, Phosphates, Calcium, ALK and Magnesium.
#6-Saltwater fish food. Mysis Shrimp, Squid, Cyclopease, Algae Sheets, Romaine . Flake food is not really a good food to feed your marine fish.
#7-Aquarium vacuum. This one is iffy. Most don't use one, if you have enough flow in the tank you won’t need one
#8-Rubber kitchen gloves
#9-Fish net
#10-Two, clean, never used before, 5-gallon buckets
#11-Aquarium thermometer, digital being the best.
#12-Brush with plastic bristles (old tooth brush) - needed for cleaning the live rock if you don't get Fully Cured Live Rock.
#13-Power Strip, possibly GFCI outlets by the tank.
#14-Optional but definitely recommend getting a Reverse Osmosis or RO/Deionization filter for the make-up water, and a barrel for storing the water.
#15-Possibly a Quarantine Tank for your new fish. They sit in here for a few weeks to kill off parasites and bacteria, to keep it from getting in your main tank
#16-Heater rated for your size tank.
#17-Saltwater Mix. Marine Salt. Instant Ocean is the cheap Salt that beginners and Advanced use alike.
#18-Saltwater Hydrometer or even better a Refractometer, which is more accurate. There is also a Digital Meter that is way advanced if you have the cash.
#19-Aquarium filter (not absolutely necessary if running with adequate amounts of live rock, but nice to have if you need to use a mechanical filter or activated carbon, or GFO and such)
#20-Aquarium substrate such as live sand or crushed coral. Some go bare Bottom, others choose the 1-2" bottom, others, more advanced will try the Deep Sand Bed, which is over 6" deep.
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The “How To” Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners Part 2: What Chemicals Must be Supplemented by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
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