A Little Help With Cycling...

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laurelhed

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jan 3, 2012
Messages
46
Location
Fullerton, CA
I have a new 20 gallon setup with fish added immediately. I read the article "I have fish and I just found out about cycling, what do I do now?", and I also read an article on "old tank syndrome". My question is-since I'm doing so many partial water changes (every day), will the detoxifying/conditioning chemicals build up to dangerous levels? I'm sure the aquarium salt will get out of hand pretty quick, so I've stopped that. I'm ordering the API Master Test Kit; Will that tell me about all those levels as well? What should I do in the meantime? Do I add the amount of detoxifier(?) for the gallons of water? Or only for what I'm adding back in? HELP!!!
 
Fisn In Tank Cycling

I have a new 20 gallon setup with fish added immediately. I read the article "I have fish and I just found out about cycling, what do I do now?", and I also read an article on "old tank syndrome". My question is-since I'm doing so many partial water changes (every day), will the detoxifying/conditioning chemicals build up to dangerous levels? I'm sure the aquarium salt will get out of hand pretty quick, so I've stopped that. I'm ordering the API Master Test Kit; Will that tell me about all those levels as well? What should I do in the meantime? Do I add the amount of detoxifier(?) for the gallons of water? Or only for what I'm adding back in? HELP!!!

Hello laurel...

This is a standard way of cycling a tank. You put a few, hopefully hardy fish in the tank and their waste starts the cycling process. You'll need to test the water daily and when your tests reveal a trace of ammonia or nitrites in the water, simply remove 25 to 30 percent of the water and replace it with pure, treated tap water. You'll need to follow this routine daily until the above readings consistently read "0". Then add a few more fish and start testing the tank daily. Just follow these steps until the tank is stocked.

PM me anytime if you have a question.

B
 
Interesting, I've never heard that before and never known anyone who utilized salt when cycling.
 
Using theraputic doses of aq salt does help in respect to nitrite poisoning. Nitrite competes with oxygen for absorption into hemoglobin. In cases of toxic levels of nitrite, nitrite prevails & fish are unable to assimilate oxygen & thus 'suffocate' even though there may be ample amounts of oxygen available (brown blood disease). Salt (chloride) in concentrations of 9 to 1 ratio of chloride to nitrite prevents nitrite from being absorbed into hemoglobin allowing oxygen to be absorbed instead.

http://www.aces.edu/dept/fisheries/aquaculture/documents/BrownBlood.pdf
 
laurelhed said:
I have a new 20 gallon setup with fish added immediately. I read the article "I have fish and I just found out about cycling, what do I do now?", and I also read an article on "old tank syndrome". My question is-since I'm doing so many partial water changes (every day), will the detoxifying/conditioning chemicals build up to dangerous levels? I'm sure the aquarium salt will get out of hand pretty quick, so I've stopped that. I'm ordering the API Master Test Kit; Will that tell me about all those levels as well? What should I do in the meantime? Do I add the amount of detoxifier(?) for the gallons of water? Or only for what I'm adding back in? HELP!!!

Just continue doing your pwc daily I'd say 2 gallons a day... Until you get your test kit. That will be plenty of water rotation for your setup. If at any point you see your fish at the top gasping do a 4 gallon water change. And don't forget to use tap water conditioner, to remove chlorine and such from the water.
 
I have a new 20 gallon setup with fish added immediately. I read the article "I have fish and I just found out about cycling, what do I do now?", and I also read an article on "old tank syndrome". My question is-since I'm doing so many partial water changes (every day), will the detoxifying/conditioning chemicals build up to dangerous levels? I'm sure the aquarium salt will get out of hand pretty quick, so I've stopped that. I'm ordering the API Master Test Kit; Will that tell me about all those levels as well? What should I do in the meantime? Do I add the amount of detoxifier(?) for the gallons of water? Or only for what I'm adding back in? HELP!!!

Keep doing your water changes with conditioner dosed to the size of your tank. This will keep your fish healthy. Once you get your test kit, you will be able to figure out how often & how much water needs to be changed to keep your levels of amm/nitrite below .25ppm. For example, if you are getting amm levels of .50ppm, a 50% water change would lower this to .25ppm. I would follow this with another 50% wc to lower your amm levels .125ppm. Post your results when you get your test kit & we will be able to better help you! Dont hesitate to ask questions! :)
 
Salt in Freshwater Tanks

I believe salt detoxifies the nitrites a tad so it helps for fish in cycling.

This is what I've read (don't know if true)

Hello Scouser...

I've read similar information on the use of standard aquarium salt during the cycling process. Even a trace of pollutants like ammonia and nitrites can irritate the sensitive gill tissues. A trace of dissolved salt in the tank water allows the water to pass through the gills more freely and also has a calming affect on the fish. Just what the doctor ordered if you're potentially putting your fish in "harm's way" by using them to cycle your tank.

B
 
Hello Scouser...

I've read similar information on the use of standard aquarium salt during the cycling process. Even a trace of pollutants like ammonia and nitrites can irritate the sensitive gill tissues. A trace of dissolved salt in the tank water allows the water to pass through the gills more freely and also has a calming affect on the fish. Just what the doctor ordered if you're potentially putting your fish in "harm's way" by using them to cycle your tank.

B
:thanks: I had heard the same thing - just didn't have the info to back up what I had heard
 
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