A newbie and a 30 gal Hex tank

[electrocutioner]

Hi there,
Am considering buying a 30 gal tank with a stand from a neibour.
I was initially dreaming of setting up a reef tank complete with sponges,urchins,sea slugs and clown fish.Well a trip to the library,the local fish store and some web surfing has convinced me that I'd be wise to get my feet wet first.So plan B has me doing a little more research and setting up a freshwater tank with some plants and fish.
A few questions.
Is a Hex tank a poor choice?While it's aesthetically pleasing,and fits well in my space (not to mention I think I'm getting a pretty fair deal),I understand that it has limitations due to the lower surface area.How much of an issue is that,and what kind of work arounds are there?
The tank comes with an under gravel filter.Are they generally sufficient,or should I immediately buy the expensive cannister setup the salesman was showing me?Can I start with the undergravel,and upgrade later on down the line if needed?
What are some of the main things to keep in mind while endeavoring to set up my first aquarium.I like a challenge,but hate to throw money away.

I guess I'm looking for some advice here on how to get started without p*ssing off my wife for blowing a wad of cash in ignorance.

Thanks

 

[Fishyfanatic]

You can use the undergravel if you choose but it has taken a significant beating on this site. They are outdated and require a lot more work than a hob or canister. I would reccommend a small canister. They will keep your tank spotless and you can easily use any type of media that you want. Most people here will recommend the canister because you won't want to see a hob on the back of a hex. BTW, you can order canisters from www.bigalsonline.com for a LOT cheaper than most of the lfs. We bought a Cascade 1000 for $140 from the lfs and they sell it for I THINK $79. The shipping doesn't amount to much and you could buy most of your stuff from their online store.

The hex in general are nice looking tanks. Depending on the dimensions, you might have some issues. BUT, I don't see it as a big problem. With having a 30 gal tank you won't be having any large fish anyways. A couple schools of fish would look nice. You could have 2 or 3 schools of 8 to 10, some ghost shrimp, snails, the options are really large. Or you could have 1 "big" fish and a school of smaller fish. It just depends what you are looking for and are interested in.

The first step is cycling the tank. Try to get your hands on some Bio-Spira or find a friend with an established tank. It will speed up the cycling process without putting fish through the step of cycling.

Whatever questions you have, post them! We are all here to help. Let me be the first to say
WELCOME TO AA!

 

[Blucat]

AS it is a 30 gall tall, a pair of angelfish would look great in it!

 

[electrocutioner]

SHould I use the UG with the cannister,or is that unnecessary?
Also,how many watts do I need?
How big a heater do I need?
What type of medium is recommended?
What else should I be expecting to buy?
I have been reading thru the articles etc. but am still a wee bit confused. :?

 

[severum mama]

You don't need to use the UGF at all. IMO it will be much more trouble than it is worth, and you can get all the bio filtration you need from a canister or HOB (hang on the back type) of filter. I have 5 tanks and I don't use an UGF on any of them and they are doing great. Fishyfanatic is right that the canister will look better because you won't see a filter hanging on the tank, but if you don't want to spend the money on a canister an Aquaclear 70 (300 gph), an Emperor 280 (280 gph), or a Penguin 330 (330 gph) would work out fine. Check out www.bigals.com for cheap prices on filters and supplies (not trying to sound like an advertisement but man, it is cheap).

I have a 27 hex (not currently set up) and I really like it. It does somewhat limit your stocking options because of the surface area, as you already pointed out, but you can still make it a really beautiful tank. When you choose your fish, make sure you choose fish that will occupy different levels in the tank- like if you choose a couple schools of tetras, for example, 1 school may spend most of their time at the top of the tank, while another school may prefer the middle or bottom.

How many watts you need depends on whether you want to grow plants. IME it is very difficult to keep plants alive in a hex tank with stock lighting because they are so deep the light will not get to the plants, but if you buy lighting that is adequate for plants it is often very expensive and may require CO2 injection. You could get some more opinions on this in the planted tank forum since I don't know much about plants. You should have a heater that is 5 watts per gallon so a 150 watt would be fine. The filter you choose will more than likely come with media, so cross that bridge when you come to it. You can expect to buy some decor, like plants (real or fake, the fish don't care), hiding spots like caves or rocks or wood (real or fake), and substrate (gravel, sand, etc.). Have you read up on fishless cycling? There is an article here about it, and that would be the most humane way to cycle your tank, as cycling is extremely stressful to fish and often causes heavy casualties. Good luck!

 

[Fishyfanatic]

An UGF and a canister are not neceassary. The canister is sufficient enough. The watts in the tank won't matter unless you are trying to have live plants. It is more of a choice. I have stock lights on our tanks because it is sufficient. My brother has more expensive lights but that's just because it compliments his fish. In regards to heaters, I'm not exactly sure what the ratio is on per gallon. I just go by what the package says and I upgrade one size higher. In regards to media, you can use Ceramic rings, activated carbon, and others that right now my mind is drawing a blank and I can't think of. We personally use Crushed Coral, Ceramic Rings, Filter Floss, and Fitler pads. The crushed coral is to raise the pH. Ours out of the tap is 7.0 and the African's desire somewhere in the upper 7's, lower 8's.

You should also buy a Master Test Kit. Aquarium Pharmacuticals Master Test Kit is widely used on this site. Do NOT and I repeat, do NOT buy the test strips. They are not accurate and are very expensive. It would be worth while to purchase it online unless you can find one under $20 at the lfs. In regards to thermometers, if you can find one, buy a digital. They are extremely accurate. Do not use one of those sticky ones. The rest is up to you. Basically decor. Real driftwood will lower your pH so check your levels out of the tap before adding anything that will naturally later the pH. And, always have a container of Aquarium Salt on hand.

 

[Fishyfanatic]

HAHA, after I posted my post I see that Severum and myself had basically told you the same thing. I agree with her though, I don't want to sound like a walking advertisement for www.bigalsonline.com BUT, they do have cheap prices and the shipping is FAST. It is definately worth the wait instead of purchasing from the lfs.

 

[electrocutioner]

Thanks for all your tips!
I will be picking up the tank soon,and look forward to engaging in this new hobby.I think it should be very rewarding.(I hope... )
I have a lot to learn and a lot to think about,I'm sure you'll be hearing lots of newbie questions from me soon.
( they finally got sick of me in the AMD overclocker forum,I gotta do something while everybody in the house is asleep Heaven help me if I start to blog!!!)

Btw

Let me be the first to say
WELCOME TO AA!

Much obliged FisheyFanatic...
When I get my 30 day chip,can I trade it in for a Molson's?