couple startup questions

[MDDad]

I read the Cycling thread and am getting ready to do fishless cycling on our new 29G tank.

Few questions I didn't see answered:

First - our filter has a plastic thing the charcoal sits in called a "biological" filter, implying bacteria stay on it. Should I still not change out the carbon filters or will the plastic part retain enough? I guess that irks me because in the past, the carbon filter would get orange mold on it, that I assumed couldn't possibly be good for the fish (this was in past tanks I had).

Second - how do I determine how much ammonia to add? I got the 10% Ammonium Hydroxide from ACE Hardware.

My ph seems to settle around 7.8 for some reason, will cycling modify this at all? My tap water (from a well) comes out at around 6.7...but it goes up after a day or so.

 

[mikellewen]

I read the Cycling thread and am getting ready to do fishless cycling on our new 29G tank.

Few questions I didn't see answered:

First - our filter has a plastic thing the charcoal sits in called a "biological" filter, implying bacteria stay on it. Should I still not change out the carbon filters or will the plastic part retain enough? I guess that irks me because in the past, the carbon filter would get orange mold on it, that I assumed couldn't possibly be good for the fish (this was in past tanks I had).

Second - how do I determine how much ammonia to add? I got the 10% Ammonium Hydroxide from ACE Hardware.

My ph seems to settle around 7.8 for some reason, will cycling modify this at all? My tap water (from a well) comes out at around 6.7...but it goes up after a day or so.

Kinda confused...?? Biological filters are a good thing; the bacteria eats the ammonia.

Adding ammonia? Never heard of that one before; ideally your ammonia level should be 0 ppm.

Ph; I don't worry about - my fish seem to be happy.

Mike.

 

[Fresh2o]

I would leave the carbon in the plastic grid and not change it. Once it exhausts its adsorption capacity, it can serve as biological filter.
There are online ammonia calculators available...I will try to find one. It does not require much to get to 4 ppm. I usually target 2 ppm.
The water from the tap most likely contains gasses that are driving down the pH (CO2). As they gas out, the pH goes up as you have observed.

 

[MDDad]

So, Fresh2o, just leave the carbon filter in indefinitely? Will I have odor issues?


Does the trick of sticking the old filter behind the new one for a period of time work if I did want to change it at some point?

The other challenge is convincing my kids (who are impatient and want some fish) and my wife why cycling without fish beforehand is a good idea.



My wife had a 10 gal in her single days and doesn't seem to think all this is necessary.

 

[RunSMK]

I am a newbie here, but have researched extensively on the fishless cycle and so far for me(almost 3 weeks in) it is going swimmingly. I bought the tank for my 4 year old son and explained to him that the water needs to be just right before adding the fish. He has been enjoying testing the water with me and seeing what the colors are.

I have been dosing my tank with Ammonia to 4 ppm and letting the tank work it down to 1 PPM before re-dosing. The following calculator, will help you know how much Ammonia to add. Just put in your tank dimension and your ammonia %(10) and your desired level. I used 4 to start from 0 and then 3 when my ammonia is holding at 1.

Calculator

Good luck!

 

[plantnoob]

MD, there should be some mechanical filtration before water comes in contact with your bio media. In your case it looks like the bio media is the charcoal (granules?) in the plastic container. You'll need to replace or clean your mechanical filtration media (filter pads etc) regularly. The bio media can get an occasional "light" rinse in tank water if absolutely needed. But it is important to never replace it since that's where most of your beneficial bacteria sit. If you find your bio media inadequate, I recommend getting a sponge filter in addition to what you have. It's a pretty inexpensive solution.

As for fish in vs fishless, I recommend the former, especially if you are a beginner. Ammonia and nitrite buildup when cycling are harmful for the fishes and while they may not die, it's pure torture for them to live in toxic water. Their life span may also reduce considerably. But people, including myself have done it in the past. The key then is constant monitoring and frequent water changes.

 

[MDDad]

Ok...got the API Master test kit.

Ammonia is somewhere between 2 and 4 ppm.

PH was 8.4!!!! I have no idea why in the hell it's so high. I added pretty much the entire small bottle of pH down and got it to 7.0. I realize it won't stay there, but I wanted to closer to neutral pH to get the bacteria started.

What bothers me a bit is the nitrates. Our well water tested at 13 ppm for nitrates when we bought the house last year. So we have a reverse osmosis system.
Unless these tests are off, or I'm doing it wrong, the tank is it about 80 ppm, with no fish and no cycling yet. Which means my tapwater (without RO) is now at 80 ppm. Which makes no sense. The reverse osmosis water is at 10 itself! Could these tests be wrong?

 

[Goldguru]

im guessing your 29 is a Topfin Kit?
If so the bio part is the Yellow plastic part with the 1/2 circle bumps on it closest to the outlet past the replaceable filter cartradge.DONT clean that part.

I would get some cheap plants in there to use up your excess nitrates it will lenghten the cycle time,( plants will use ammonoa & nitrites as well) how ever its Free plant fertilizer,most have to dose KNO3 to get it in a planted tank.

6-12 stems would consume those nitrates once they take root.
As for your PH sounds like something you have used for decore or for gravel is likely to blame.
you havnt mentioned what has been used?
if your tap PH is under 7 then those are the variables raising PH after filling your tank.
we need more info as to what you have added,powders, rocks,gravel,etc

 

[Coursair]

In my planted tanks, I don't use carbon at all. I just use foam filter pads and when the filter slows down I rinse them in used tank water, or in dechlorinated tapwater. The only time you need carbon is if you have medicated your tank and you need to remove the medication. You might want to save your carbon for later. Another thing you can add to your filter is a small bag of Purigen.

If your filter uses all in one cartridges that are carbon and floss then just rinse those lightly in used water as needed. I don't replace them unless they are falling apart.

 

[MDDad]

I have "regular" looking gravel of various tan and brown gravel. Looks like pea gravel.

pH went back up to 8+ overnight.