Cycling - continually reading max ammonia

[extremenewb]

Hi,

I'm currently cycling (fishless) my tank (around 4-5 G) with fish food. I'd say I'm around 2-3 weeks into it (but I changed filters halfway thru - ie atm keeping both filters in tank, but the air pump is powering the new filter - keeping the old one in in case there was remnant of the good bacteria in there).

A few days ago, I read my NH3 was off charts (ie little over 6.1). I did a PWC to return it to much lower levels (about 1.2 I'd say). However, I just checked it today, and again it is off the charts (bit over 6.1 again). Should I (1) do a PWC and keep on doing PWC to keep the NH3 @ lower levels, (2) stop feeding it ammonia and leave it for a while for the NH3 to drop (if it does), or anything else instead? It has been a few days more now, and since then i haven't added anything to the tank (ie more fish food) but still the ammonia is at really high levels).

My filter doesn't really move the surface of the water that much but i have plants in there - was thinkin maybe I should get an airstone to supply more oxygen to the tank?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!!

 

[Jchillin]

How much fish food are you using (daily)? For that size tank, you should be using very little.
That is really a high level of ammonia - What were your NO2 and NO3 readings?
What else is in the tank besides the plants (and what type of plants)?

You should be using a filter with bio media other than just the sponge.

 

[extremenewb]

I know I was using a fair bit of fish food. But now I've stopped giving fish food all together, and that would've been around a week.

Was planning to buy those kits soon. When everything opens again (due to holidays), I'll get them and post the numbers up.

Things in tank: A piece of those fake driftwood decorations, java moss, java fern, and one last plant not really sure of.

And the sponge filter includes a "carbon and zeolite cartridge" inside of it. Is that what you mean by bio-media? If it helps, this is my filter (small one): http://www.aquaticlifeaquariums.com.au/en-gb/dept_391.html

Thx. Merry Christmas and a happy new yr also

 

[Jchillin]

Biologically correct water - This is from the product specs of the link you posted. I can't tell from the description if this sponge is an actual bio-filter. The type I referred to is this:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4310&N=2004+113066

If this is the same type you have or something similar, that fits the bill. You need this type to allow nitrifying bacteria to live. Yeah, stop adding the food until you can get the tests done.

 

[extremenewb]

I think it should be. Inside that green sponge thing is that carbon cartidge. I always thought the green sponge is where the bacteria lives and the carbon if for the chemical filtration or something.

But yea I'll get the tests done and tell you what I get. My main concern is yea, the fact that I havent been adding fish food/ammonia and the levels are still really high.

 

[TankGirl]

What kind of dechlorinator are you using? Many dechlorinating products will react with your ammonia test kit and show a high reading. Test this by testing your tap water for ammonia (should, of course, be zero) and then test tap water that you have added some dechlorinator to, and see if you show ammonia.

If so, get yourself an ammonia test kit that has two reagent bottles, and you should no longer have this false positive.

I am hoping that this is the problem, and not a true ammonia crisis!

 

[extremenewb]

yea that might be a concern. My dechlorinator is pretty old (few years - from when I had a fish tank before). But when I did I water change, and used the dechroinator, the ammonia level dropped a fair bit. (about halved).

Actually, I'm using the Hagen Ammonia Test Kit (which has 3 reagents). hmmm.. does any1 have experience with this test kit? I just read it has its own method of measuring "toxic levels" of ammonia. It has a red/yellow/green zone, and according to the test kit, I would have to also run a pH test to know if the ammonia is in the toxic zone or not. For example, according to the chart, my ammonia is at 4-5. If my pH is 7.3 or less, then I'm in the "green" or safe zone. If pH7.3 - 7.5, I'm in the yellow zone and if pH above 7.5 red zone (ie water change).

 

[extremenewb]

and btw, I just performed an ammonia test on my dechlorinated water. It has a reading of zero. I'm just thinking in the beginning I added way to much fish food and all of it is decaying and ammonia is out of control. Though before I do anything drastic, I'm thinking of waiting for my nitrite and nitrate test kits and test those levels.

 

[Jchillin]

Sounds good. Yeah, get those tests done. You can judge the effectiveness of the biological process with them.

 

[jsoong]

Since you don't have any fish in your tank, you can afford to let your tank NH3 to run higher to speed up cycling. The level suggested for fishless cycling is 4-5 ... An extremly high level may stall the cycle (kills the nitrifying bacteria) so you don't want to go overboard on the high NH3, however.

I noticed you have a zeolite cartridge in your filter? That is used to absorb NH3. Using that may mess up cycling. Also, when the zeolite is full, it may leach out the adsorbed NH3, so that may be the source of your NH3 as well. I would suggest removing that & see what happens. Most people here would not support the use of any ammonia binders during cycling (or afterwards). Some, like me, won't use even carbon usless needed for a specific purpose.

BTW, the bacteria will live on pretty much any surface. For a small tank, a sponge in the filter is perfectly adaquate, no need for the expensive biomedia stuff (just IMO).

 

[extremenewb]

I think I may be seeing some bacteria building up. And it looks like the NH3 is dropping. Thx for the suggestions.

And btw, so you would reckon I could get rid of that zeolite/carbon cartridge in my tank?? (its good, can save some $$$ not having to replace them every month or so like the filter said

 

[extremenewb]

And while i may have some1's attention, could you help me with my betta Qn

I'm planning to get a betta + 1-2 ghost shrimp for my tank (2-3 Gal). I've been reading up on betta diets, and from what ppl have written, I have concluded that I should not buy shrimp for them due to low nuitrional value, a blanched pea once a week is good, and I should vary the diet. I'm thinking of buying "Wardley's Freeze Dried Bloodworms". I'm just wondering is that ok? I think I may have read some1 saying frozen is good, but shouldnt get freeze dried. That's what I only remember seeing when I passed thru my LFS 2day scanning for betta food. Also, just wondering what other types of betta food some1 could suggest to be in my betta's diet that I could buy @ my LFS? Thanks

 

[TankGirl]

Get a good quality flake food, or one of the many betta diets that are available. They can have bloodworms occasionally but protein should not be the bulk of their diet.

I think you can omit the use of carbon in your filters, unless you are trying to remove a medication or clear up water stained with tannins, etc.