Fishless Cycle

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Stylix1981

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
May 8, 2023
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Location
Sheffield, UK
While i am waitin g for my nitrites to start dropping and creating nitrates, do i still have to dose ammonia every day?


I have read some articles that state that you shouldnt do it everyday as you can create too much nitrite while the bacteria is growing to turn it to nitrate.


What would you suggest?
 
What is the nitrite level? Adding ammonia will make the level rise until the microbes that convert it to nitrates establish so the nitrite value is the answer to whether you should continue dosing. ( the odds are you won't need to but you want to create a strong large biological bed for when you add more fish. )
 
What is the nitrite level? Adding ammonia will make the level rise until the microbes that convert it to nitrates establish so the nitrite value is the answer to whether you should continue dosing. ( the odds are you won't need to but you want to create a strong large biological bed for when you add more fish. )

Nitrite levels are reading either 2 or 5 the colours are really close, i would guess at 5.
 
I would not add any more ammonia. Keep an eye on the nitrite level and watch for nitrates. Once the nitrite and ammonia levels reach 0 and the nitrate level starts to rise, do not wait long to add fish life or else continue to add small amounts of ammonia to keep the biological filter active. Keep in mind that it grows and shrinks to the amount of ammonia present in the tank so if there is no ammonia for too long, the biological bed will begin to die off. (If the nitrate level reaches levels above 40 PPM when your nitrites reach 0, you'll want to do a large water change the day before adding the new fish. )
 
I would not add any more ammonia. Keep an eye on the nitrite level and watch for nitrates. Once the nitrite and ammonia levels reach 0 and the nitrate level starts to rise, do not wait long to add fish life or else continue to add small amounts of ammonia to keep the biological filter active. Keep in mind that it grows and shrinks to the amount of ammonia present in the tank so if there is no ammonia for too long, the biological bed will begin to die off. (If the nitrate level reaches levels above 40 PPM when your nitrites reach 0, you'll want to do a large water change the day before adding the new fish. )


So i tested yesterday and i still had nitrites showing so i added a little ammonia as it had been 2 days since i dosed the tank and i didnt want the bacteria to die.


I tested again today and both ammonia and nitrites at 0, checked nitrate and its at 20ppm. So i have added more ammonia and will test again tommorow.


How many days do i need to keep dosing/checking to make sure nitrite is cycling out in 24 hours?
 
If your ammonia and nitrite zero out in 24 hours, Do a nice sized water change (50%-75% ) to reduce the nitrates and add some stock ( fish or invertebrates) to help keep the biological filter going. Even with doing fishless cycles, you really don't want to overload any system with your first fish.
 
If your ammonia and nitrite zero out in 24 hours, Do a nice sized water change (50%-75% ) to reduce the nitrates and add some stock ( fish or invertebrates) to help keep the biological filter going. Even with doing fishless cycles, you really don't want to overload any system with your first fish.


So i checked my ammonia and nitrates yesterday and i was still showing nitrites 0.25ppm. So i redosed ammonia and waited to test again today.
My ammonia and nitrites are both showing 0, tested for nitrates and it is at 40ppm. So its looking like my cycle has finally finished.


My query is however that i wont be able to get to the lfs until wednesday, so what do i need to do to maintain the bacteria bed until then?


Do i keep redosing ammonia every day and testing and then the night before do a 50-75% water change depending on nitrate levels?
 
So i checked my ammonia and nitrates yesterday and i was still showing nitrites 0.25ppm. So i redosed ammonia and waited to test again today.
My ammonia and nitrites are both showing 0, tested for nitrates and it is at 40ppm. So its looking like my cycle has finally finished.


My query is however that i wont be able to get to the lfs until wednesday, so what do i need to do to maintain the bacteria bed until then?


Do i keep redosing ammonia every day and testing and then the night before do a 50-75% water change depending on nitrate levels?
What I would do is dependent on how many fish you intend on adding on Wednesday and if your ammonia and nitrites are zeroing out in 24 hours. If you are adding a lot of fish, I would continue to add ammonia daily to 2 ppm with a big water change on Tuesday and not adding any ammonia on Tuesday. If you are only adding a small number of small fish species, I'd dose ammonia to 1 ppm daily then do a large water change on Tuesday without adding any new ammonia. If you are not zeroing out ammonia and nitrites in 24 hours, I'd only redose ammonia when they return to zero.
 
What I would do is dependent on how many fish you intend on adding on Wednesday and if your ammonia and nitrites are zeroing out in 24 hours. If you are adding a lot of fish, I would continue to add ammonia daily to 2 ppm with a big water change on Tuesday and not adding any ammonia on Tuesday. If you are only adding a small number of small fish species, I'd dose ammonia to 1 ppm daily then do a large water change on Tuesday without adding any new ammonia. If you are not zeroing out ammonia and nitrites in 24 hours, I'd only redose ammonia when they return to zero.
I am planning on adding 6 neons then waiting a bit then adding 6 platys then will be adding 3-4 otocinclus once algae is sufficient for them
 
I am planning on adding 6 neons then waiting a bit then adding 6 platys then will be adding 3-4 otocinclus once algae is sufficient for them
Then I would do the 1 ppm as long as it's zeroing out in 24 hours. (y)
On another note, Platies and Neons do not really share the same water parameters. Platies should be in hard alkaline water while Neons prefer soft neutral to slightly acidic water. Neons are adaptable but will not be at their best in waters that Platies will be their best. Since you are also adding Otos, they would be better off in the same water as the neons so you might want to rethink the Platies and go with another fish that prefers the softer more acidic water. :whistle:
Hope this helps (y)
 
Then I would do the 1 ppm as long as it's zeroing out in 24 hours. (y)
On another note, Platies and Neons do not really share the same water parameters. Platies should be in hard alkaline water while Neons prefer soft neutral to slightly acidic water. Neons are adaptable but will not be at their best in waters that Platies will be their best. Since you are also adding Otos, they would be better off in the same water as the neons so you might want to rethink the Platies and go with another fish that prefers the softer more acidic water. :whistle:
Hope this helps (y)


Where is the best place to get ph information for specific fish from?


I have been researching and everything i have read says that neons are ok in ph between 6.8 and 7.8 and platys are ok in ph between 7.0 and 8.0.
 
Your water is fine. The neons and platys will more than likely have been bred locally in water similar to whats coming out of your tap. You are only just up the road from me, you have water similar to what we have round here and people keep tetras and livebearers just fine in it.

M1 / J28 Wharf aquatics if you want good quality fish not too far to travel.
 
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Your water is fine. The neons and platys will more than likely have been bred locally in water similar to whats coming out of your tap. You are only just up the road from me, you have water similar to what we have round here and people keep tetras and livebearers just fine in it.

M1 / J28 Wharf aquatics if you want good quality fish not too far to travel.

Thanks.

I don't drive unfortunately. So unless i can talk my neighbour into taking me one day i will have to settle for Maidenhead Aquatics lol
 
Be cheaper to get a taxi to wharf than pay maidenhead prices.

Maidenhead typically cost 2 to 3 times the prices charged elsewhere. Just go to pets at home.
 
Be cheaper to get a taxi to wharf than pay maidenhead prices.

Maidenhead typically cost 2 to 3 times the prices charged elsewhere. Just go to pets at home.


Pets at Home sadly haven't had any neons in for a while, hence going to Maidenhead lol. There's £5 difference in price for 6 so it isn't too bad.
 
Last time i went to a maidenhead they were selling £2 nerite snails for £6 and £8 electric blue rams for £16. I didnt buy anything. Their equipment and dry goods are well priced, but livestock is really expensive.

The only reason i would buy fish from them is if i couldn't get what i want from somewhere else in a reasonable timeframe. Nothing wrong with them apart from price, if its whats convenient for you then they are a good store.

Only thing bad about pets at home is their company policy on advice. And thats getting better now, they have rewritten some of their guidelines and doubled the recommended tank sizes for fish species. Still a little short but certainly an improvement. Their fish are sound, just limited on choice if you want something different (you wont get otos from there). Equipment and dry goods are well priced.

Went to a terrible store couple of weeks ago in Stafford that one of our members was using. Nothing of interest in the store, nothing appeared to be looked after, just an uninspiring store all round.
 
Yeah I did notice that some of their prices are quite high. I am limited to the 2 stores though without a car so if PaH don't get any neons in then i will have to get them from Maidenhead.
 
There is something to be said about having the patience to wait for a particular store to get what you want when another less reputable place has them available. There is no difference between similar dry goods from different stores (i.e. a fluval Aquaclear 50 filter is the same in every store) but there can be a huge difference in the quality of a fish from one store to another. As we used to say to our customers " A filter is a filter but a fish is not always a fish. " So if it means waiting for a better quality fish to be in stock, it might serve you well to wait. :whistle:

As for what Aiken said about mixing the fish, as I said before, neons are quite adaptable but they do a have a rang that is more conducive for a longer lifespan and with the Otos, which are probably wild, they may not do so well in hard alkaline water. :whistle:
 
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